Is this a common pleco?

[Colin_T]

I haven't read the label but assume that the API starter stuff is a bacteria base. I mean what else would tank starter stuff be?

Starter stuff could be ammonia used to cycle a tank, or beneficial filter bacteria to help get the cycling process done faster.

Stagnant water generally contains no or low levels of oxygen. If there is rotting matter in the stagnant water, then that will produce ammonia. But in a clean filter the water will simply be low in oxygen and that won't have any effect on the undergravel filter.

 

[jaylach]

I really don't want to mess a lot until I see if the pleco actually makes it but the next water change I'll draw a lot through the built in filter chamber via a siphon and refill through the filter chamber.

 

[jaylach]

I decided the heck with it and just did about a 50% water change. Could not draw much from the built in filter chamber as, just like the built in pump, the siphon is just too large' You buy the tank and it has extras 'for free'. Just can't trust free.

I pretty much guessed as far as treatment without using medications but mayhaps I did something right as, while not total, the pleco's color has even more returned. I have more hope as to survival but will still take some time to know.

Assuming that I'm correct in that it was/is a bacterial infection I don't get why only the pleco was affected. I can sort of understand the cory not being fazed but plecos are almost as much of a tank as a cory if not more so. Being, unless I'm wrong, more fragile I'd think that the two tetras would be the first to show signs yet only the pleco showed any illness.

Even though I probably can't keep the critter anyway it is still a life under my care and I don't want to fail in that responsibility.

 

[Colin_T]

You need to get the ammonia level down to 0ppm.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week or until the ammonia and nitrite are on 0ppm. Then do it once a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

 

[jaylach]

You need to get the ammonia level down to 0ppm.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week or until the ammonia and nitrite are on 0ppm. Then do it once a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

I KNOW that I need to get the ammonia level down. The problem is that, regardless of how many water changes I do, the ammonia remains high yet the nitrate and nitrate show 0 PPM. For some reason the tank seems to be refusing to cycle. I suspect that the built in filtration chamber being idle MAY be causing stagnation preventing the cycle but don't really know.

I'm hoping that the new built in filter pump will be here in another day or two and I can use. While the original pump works it is just too strong at 264 GPH. Even hitting the overflow vents the water flow just can't keep up with the pump. I'm replacing with a 93 GPH pump. I think getting the built in functional may solve a lot of my issues.

 

[Colin_T]

big daily water changes should reduce the ammonia.
check the tap water for ammonia to make sure it isn't coming from there.

 

[jaylach]

big daily water changes should reduce the ammonia.
check the tap water for ammonia to make sure it isn't coming from there.

THANK YOU! Checking the tap water for ammonia is something that I didn't think of doing. I'll check the tap water whenever I wake up tomorrow... or should I say later today. You would have to look at my pleco thread to understand but I've been up most of the night in awe watching the two smallest fish in the tank protecting a sick pleco from another fish. Pleco is looking MUCH better but not out of the woods.

Don't take this wrong as I know help is being offered and I totally appreciate. What has been a bit of a frustration is that every time I post what is going on I get the same response as to do water changes but I've been doing so with apparently no result. The suggestion of testing the tap water for ammonia is the first thing suggested that I've not already been doing. Even with that I don't understand why the nitrite and nitrate levels would show 0 PPM when there is a high ammonia level. It seems to me to indicate that the tank has made zero progress as to turning over. The only reason that I can fathom for this is that the idle built in filtration compartments have become stagnant to, at least, some degree preventing the formation of the bacteria colonies.

 

[Colin_T]

In a new tank the ammonia level can sit on 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5ppm for weeks before suddenly dropping to 0ppm. It can literally drop to 0ppm overnight, so it's a matter of waiting until there is enough beneficial bacteria to convert the ammonia into nitrite. When it does drop, the nitrite level starts to go up. Then it takes a few more weeks for the nitrite to drop and nitrate to appear.

Nitrate will show up when you have nitrite but this is due to nitrate test kits reading nitrite as nitrate. So don't bother testing for nitrate until after the tank has cycled otherwise you will have a high nitrate reading, which is actually caused by the nitrite. Sorry if that's confusing.

 

[jaylach]

Tap water does have ammonia but only at ~0.75 PPM.

I also need to get a better siphon for the substrat. The one that came with the tank is too large and cumbersome to use well.