Is Ph That Important

westiemarble

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Hi all,

I have a 12g nano that's been up and running for 4 months now.
My FOWLR set up is doing really well so far (7.5Kg of LR, one clown, a purple firefish and CUC) and all water parameters are great except for the PH which is stuck at 7.8 and never moves (at least it's stable).
I would like to add a couple of simple corals such as a blue mushroom and a colourful Zoa but don't know whether my PH level would be a problem. I appreciate that for the serious reef keeper it would be but I'm only looking at a couple of the simple, hardy ones.

So, with a static PH=7.8 am I stuck with a FOWLR system?

Thanks
 
Get the water tested at your local fish shop, and test the same sample with your test kit. If the PH is 7.8 then it is too low for fish or corals. You want the PH to be around 8.4-8.5.
8.2 is as low as you should let it get for corals.
Increasing aeration (as mentioned above) might help, or check the carbonate hardness (KH) and raise that if necessary.
Increase the water changes and check the PH of the new water before you add it to the tank. You might need to buffer/ increase the PH before you use the water.
 
The PH of the water from my LFS is always 8.4
I do a 4g weekly water change (12g tank before LR added).
I am continually buffering my Mg levels which keep dropping to about 1000.
I have tried seachem ph buffer which drives my KH through the roof but makes no noticeable difference to the PH.
My KH levels are always on the high side at 12-13.
My protein skimmer sucks air in from the room and I am just getting through the micro-bubble problem with the Orca skimmer so the water has always been full of oxygen bubbles.
I have the spray bar turned to create as much surface aggitation as I can get without splashing the lid and getting it wet through.
My tank has a lot of pink corraline algae. The LR is mainly pink. Shells added for the hermits are turning pink. Spots of pink are all over the back wall, the glass, the power heads - everything; Any significance?

I would have used the forum search engine but it died weeks ago.
 
A protein skimmer will help keep the oxygen levels high as will the spraybar from the filter. Having a sponge over the outlet of the skimmer can help reduce the fine bubbles in the water. The really fine bubbles can cause problems to the fish and corals.
A 1/3 weekly water change should be sufficient to keep the PH up unless there is a high bioload in the tank. Lots of fish food will drop the PH rapidly but a high KH should prevent it from dropping.
If the Seachem PH buffer is not raising the PH then there is something wrong with it. Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda, not baking powder) can be used to raise the PH and KH. It is cheap and readily available from any supermarket.
Calcium is more important than magnesium in a reef tank. The corals and coralline algae use the calcium and when that runs out they use magnesium.
 
You might also just want to try changing the brand of salt you are using.
 
Have you measured calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium? Also have you tried the outside test? Set some tankwater ourside (like out doors) for a night, or maybe add an airstone for an hour and then read it again. If the pH increases, you've got an ambient CO2 problem :)

Stable but lower pH is not a problem if calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium are in acceptable levels :)
 
Have you measured calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium? Also have you tried the outside test? Set some tankwater ourside (like out doors) for a night, or maybe add an airstone for an hour and then read it again. If the pH increases, you've got an ambient CO2 problem :)

Stable but lower pH is not a problem if calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium are in acceptable levels :)

You hit the nail on the head with the CO2 problem. Opened the room window for all day (even less popular with the wife now!) and the PH went to around 8.2 by the end of the day. I guess a modern house with sealed windows and doors, four adults and a dog does get a high CO2 level especially at this time of year when no windows are open and the doors quickly closed when used.

My calcium, magnesium and alkalinity levels are all good so I guess I'm stuck with a low ph until summer.

Many thanks
 
Well, at least you know the problem :). As I mentioned, it's really not that big a deal, so just keep those calc, alk, and mg values where they should be and the tank should be fine
 
Well, at least you know the problem :). As I mentioned, it's really not that big a deal, so just keep those calc, alk, and mg values where they should be and the tank should be fine

Would a basic mushroom coral or a button poly type coral survive with this ph problem?
 
My PH was stuck around 7.7 for the first few weeks and the mushroom I got free on my live rock was fine and nearly doubled in size during that time.
 
I think (and dont take my word on it because im not 100% sure) that they will be ok, as long as the PH is stable and everything else is ok.
 

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