Im Still Not Sure If This Is Going To Work...

ok, and do u think the torch is to close to my mushroom? the mushroom isnt opening anymore and it like squished up on the side closer to the torch like its trying to get away from it. i read that torchs can sting and are agressive?


also could u answer some of my previous questions?

sorry for all the questions :(
 
Heh, I'd love to but a little pressed for time here :). Quick info, if you're still having problems with hair algae and cyanobacteria (which I don't see in your pictures...) do not feed phytoplankton yet. That would just be adding fuel to the nutrient fire that keeps these nuisance algaes going.

Don't know if it's too close to the mushroom as that left-most head is not yet extended. If it does come in contact with the mushy, it will sting/kill that mushroom. IMO not a big loss as mushrooms grow/multiply fast anyways.

Of utmost importance when keeping torches (in my experience) is to maintain alkalinity over 7dKH. Below this they start to recede and may even bail out of their skeleton, both not good things.
 
I'll try and answer whats been missed but if I forget any just repost the questions you want answers to again as there is now stuff everywhere and its hard to pick out what has been answered and whats not as far as you are concerned..

Skimming..
As you have a 55g tank I would recomend you get one. There are quite a few types on the market. What you buy will depend on your budjet and tank. If you dont have a sump then youll have to go with either a hang on external or an internal skimmer. A good shot of the top half of your tank/lid/light set up will help us advise you what you can fit in. Internal skimmers powered by an airpump are by the far the cheapest and quite east to run and maintain. But there are height limits as so much of it has to be above the water line and if you have a lid and glass support struts that will effect what type of skimmer you can get. This is also the same for the hang on externals. It all depends on your tank as to what you can stick in there.
Skimming is a good way of keeping down nitrates and organic matter in the tank so helps with balance. It removes the protein particles fromm the water by means of bubble faom which is passed into a collection cup. This in turn is emptied and cleaned regular.

CUC
This is entirly upto you. But to be honest at this stage I would consider the most important thing to be getting yout tank stable before adding anything else. Get all the live rock you want bought and added to the system to get any ammonia/nitrate spikes out of the way first. Once the tank is stable then you can thing about adding other stuff. Anything you add to an unstabe tank is at risk of death and your are throwing you money away! and as for the dad with the shopping addiction I suggest you give him a good telling off and explain he needs to wait and have a bit of patience..lol

Cheato.. Pods
Yes you can add that to your tank but it need to be put somewhere where there is good water flow, otherwise it will soon get full off rotting rubbish that can cause a problem in itself. Its also a good way of bringing down both nitrates and phosphates which will help with long term balance of the tank. The pods will find there own way in to the rock work and cheato so you dont have to do anything. You can sometimes buy them on such as e.bay in bottles Ive had them myself in the past. Best thing to do is to get your macros establised first so they have somehwre to go then buy some and also buy a turkey baster/large syringe and inject them straight into it. That way you give them the best chance.

Cyno & algae..
Best way to deal with this is to get you tank stable. so if you do all of the other stuff thats been mentioned this should help dramatically with any outbreaks. If you are still having problems when the tank is settled then you can stuff to add to your filter to reduce the phosphates and this again will be a huge help.

Worm in picture above..
Thats a harmless spagetti worm they are great at clean up and will harm nothing so just leave him be :)

Anything Ive missed please repost.
 
Heh, I'd love to but a little pressed for time here :). Quick info, if you're still having problems with hair algae and cyanobacteria (which I don't see in your pictures...) do not feed phytoplankton yet. That would just be adding fuel to the nutrient fire that keeps these nuisance algaes going.

Don't know if it's too close to the mushroom as that left-most head is not yet extended. If it does come in contact with the mushy, it will sting/kill that mushroom. IMO not a big loss as mushrooms grow/multiply fast anyways.

Of utmost importance when keeping torches (in my experience) is to maintain alkalinity over 7dKH. Below this they start to recede and may even bail out of their skeleton, both not good things.

Yea you cant see the cyano in that most of those pictures because those pictures were before the breakout, if you want, i can get some new pictures.

Either way, to be safe, i turned the torch so the bottom torchy thing isnt touching it.

I planned on getting the test kit with alkalinity today cause the one i have doesnt have it.

I'll try and answer whats been missed but if I forget any just repost the questions you want answers to again as there is now stuff everywhere and its hard to pick out what has been answered and whats not as far as you are concerned..

Skimming..
As you have a 55g tank I would recomend you get one. There are quite a few types on the market. What you buy will depend on your budjet and tank. If you dont have a sump then youll have to go with either a hang on external or an internal skimmer. A good shot of the top half of your tank/lid/light set up will help us advise you what you can fit in. Internal skimmers powered by an airpump are by the far the cheapest and quite east to run and maintain. But there are height limits as so much of it has to be above the water line and if you have a lid and glass support struts that will effect what type of skimmer you can get. This is also the same for the hang on externals. It all depends on your tank as to what you can stick in there.
Skimming is a good way of keeping down nitrates and organic matter in the tank so helps with balance. It removes the protein particles fromm the water by means of bubble faom which is passed into a collection cup. This in turn is emptied and cleaned regular.

CUC
This is entirly upto you. But to be honest at this stage I would consider the most important thing to be getting yout tank stable before adding anything else. Get all the live rock you want bought and added to the system to get any ammonia/nitrate spikes out of the way first. Once the tank is stable then you can thing about adding other stuff. Anything you add to an unstabe tank is at risk of death and your are throwing you money away! and as for the dad with the shopping addiction I suggest you give him a good telling off and explain he needs to wait and have a bit of patience..lol

Cheato.. Pods
Yes you can add that to your tank but it need to be put somewhere where there is good water flow, otherwise it will soon get full off rotting rubbish that can cause a problem in itself. Its also a good way of bringing down both nitrates and phosphates which will help with long term balance of the tank. The pods will find there own way in to the rock work and cheato so you dont have to do anything. You can sometimes buy them on such as e.bay in bottles Ive had them myself in the past. Best thing to do is to get your macros establised first so they have somehwre to go then buy some and also buy a turkey baster/large syringe and inject them straight into it. That way you give them the best chance.

Cyno & algae..
Best way to deal with this is to get you tank stable. so if you do all of the other stuff thats been mentioned this should help dramatically with any outbreaks. If you are still having problems when the tank is settled then you can stuff to add to your filter to reduce the phosphates and this again will be a huge help.

Worm in picture above..
Thats a harmless spagetti worm they are great at clean up and will harm nothing so just leave him be :)

Anything Ive missed please repost.

Ok ill get some pictures of the top of my tank, but basicly, it is completely covered and theres like 1 inch from the water to the cover. And i dont have a sump. So is there anything u suggest or do you need pictures or a better description?

im geting live rock asap but we can only go to the pet store every weekend. And i keep TRYING to tell my dad but he doesnt like that fact of live rock, he thinks it a waste of money, does nothing, and if we put rocks in there, they will turn into live rocks...

Alright well i have 2 power heads now so i think theres enough water flowing, but wont the chaeto fly around? Should i point the power head at the chaeto?
and once i get the chaeto and live rocks settled then ill buy some pods (right now, to feed my blenny im just stuffing a bit of froz brine shrimp into a empty shell and droping it, she always finds it and she will eat alot of frozen foods.

So my main problem right now is no live rocks... For now should i just scoop the layer of algae on my sand off?

Thanks for answering most of my questions, ill repost any u missed

EDIT: Repost of questions:

-When u say filter media, do u mean the woolly things that u put in filters to catch the stuff when the water goes through it?
-What type of skimmer do u suggest?
-Is there a certain name brand i should look for, or certain type that i should look for?
-There isnt that much space in my filter system for liverock rubble to fit in. What is filter floss, should i just go to my LFS and ask them to explain?
-How do i add carbon to my filter?
-My filter uses a spongey thingy to clean the water, so should i chaneg that to something else?

-and i have like 5 baby brittlestars in 1 of my rocks, is there anythig i should do?
-or should i just ignore them?
-feed them something?
-will they hurt anything?

I have been told that i might have truoble with my choco star, but so far it has does nothing bad and it became my favorite thing in my tank, but ill watch it,
-what bad things will it do?
-and what should i do with it?

-alright and are there anythings i should be watchign for with crabs and hermit crabs will they eat anyhtign i dont want them to eat?
-also how many of each do i need
-what type of hermit crab should i get?

1.What and how/why do u quarentine fish? (Does not quarentineing fish cause whitespots?)
6.Can i and should i get a fuge with out a sump?
9.What are diatoms? and how do i know if i have them?
12.Do mushrooms, and polyps, leathers, and other solf corals need any speical additive, or food that i should feed them? Feather dusters also? or just phytoplankton?
13.What is a good sandsifting invert/fish that is reef-safe? and easy to take care of.

-How do i know when my torch is dead or dieing?

and if you could look over my list of future fish i want and see if they are all ok to have (i want the most peaceful, and easy to take care of, reef tank, cause this is still my 1st take. although my dads goal is to have a lion fish tank :) but i dont think that will happen unless we get another tank)
 
Wow ok, that's a lot of questions...

- I reccomend Live Rock as your main filtration. Skimmers and Refugiums are great supplimental filtration
- Are you in the US or UK for hardware reccomendations?

- Brittlestars are fine, great deetritovores
- Require no feeding, just leave them be

- Choco stars can/will eat all snails, crabs, and sand bed microfauna. They are so good at eating these things that eventually they will deplete the tank of all of them, starve to death, and die, possibly causing a tank crash in the process. As desireable as large starfish like this are, they are NOT suitabile in tanks below 100gallons.

- IMO, hermits are nasty little punks and will kill each other and snails for their shells. Lots of other people swear by them, not me...

- Quarantine should be performed in one of two instances. First, all NEW fish should be QTed in a seperate system BEFORE adding them to the display. You do NOT want to try and catch an agile saltwater fish in a tank full of liverock, please trust me ;). I'm a stickler for QT procedures after loosing half my tank to ich about 6 months ago. I QT for 4 weeks before adding anything to my display.
- If you do get a diseased fish and wish to treat it with either copper or hyposalinity, then that fish needs to be moved to QT. Good luck catching it though :crazy:. Once QTed, hyposalinity of 1.009sg or a copper treatment of 0.20-0.30ppm copper will handle most parasitic infections. Bacterial ones obvoiusly need antibiotic treatment, but are less common in saltwater aquaria than parasites.

You'll know when your torch is dead or dying when the head withdraws its tentacles and covers itself in a nasty brown goo...
 
-There isnt that much space in my filter system for liverock rubble to fit in. What is filter floss, should i just go to my LFS and ask them to explain?
Filter floss is kind of like wool, it traps lots of particles and if your tank is cloudy it'll clear up really fast.
-and i have like 5 baby brittlestars in 1 of my rocks, is there anythig i should do?
They are most likely asterina stars. google them for more info, they usually aren't a problem.

I have been told that i might have truoble with my choco star, but so far it has does nothing bad and it became my favorite thing in my tank, but ill watch it,
-what bad things will it do?
i believe they are predators and might eat corals or fish, but I don't know for sure, try searching on google.

-alright and are there anythings i should be watchign for with crabs and hermit crabs will they eat anyhtign i dont want them to eat?
sometimes they will hunt down snails for the shells. Just provide a few extra shells for them to change to and you'll be fine.
-what type of hermit crab should i get?
scarlet hermit crabs the most commonly recommended.

1.What and how/why do u quarentine fish? (Does not quarentineing fish cause whitespots?)
Quarantine is when you hold the fish in a different tank to make sure it does not have any diseases, to help it adjust, and make sure it's eating. If you quarantine fish there is a much smaller risk of transfering diseases to your other fish. Usually a 20 gallon tank is big enough, all you need in it is a heater, a place to hide (not live rock) and a filter (preferably an established filter).
6.Can i and should i get a fuge with out a sump?
A refugium is always good. There are hang on back refugiums that you can buy.
9.What are diatoms? and how do i know if i have them?
It's like a furry brown algae, kind of like dust.
12.Do mushrooms, and polyps, leathers, and other solf corals need any speical additive, or food that i should feed them? Feather dusters also? or just phytoplankton?
Feather dusters need phytoplankton a few times a week, most corals don't need anything unless you have a lot.
13.What is a good sandsifting invert/fish that is reef-safe? and easy to take care of.
Fighting conch.
-How do i know when my torch is dead or dieing?
 
Wow ok, that's a lot of questions...

- I reccomend Live Rock as your main filtration. Skimmers and Refugiums are great supplimental filtration
- Are you in the US or UK for hardware reccomendations?

- Brittlestars are fine, great deetritovores
- Require no feeding, just leave them be

- Choco stars can/will eat all snails, crabs, and sand bed microfauna. They are so good at eating these things that eventually they will deplete the tank of all of them, starve to death, and die, possibly causing a tank crash in the process. As desireable as large starfish like this are, they are NOT suitabile in tanks below 100gallons.

- IMO, hermits are nasty little punks and will kill each other and snails for their shells. Lots of other people swear by them, not me...

- Quarantine should be performed in one of two instances. First, all NEW fish should be QTed in a seperate system BEFORE adding them to the display. You do NOT want to try and catch an agile saltwater fish in a tank full of liverock, please trust me ;). I'm a stickler for QT procedures after loosing half my tank to ich about 6 months ago. I QT for 4 weeks before adding anything to my display.
- If you do get a diseased fish and wish to treat it with either copper or hyposalinity, then that fish needs to be moved to QT. Good luck catching it though :crazy:. Once QTed, hyposalinity of 1.009sg or a copper treatment of 0.20-0.30ppm copper will handle most parasitic infections. Bacterial ones obvoiusly need antibiotic treatment, but are less common in saltwater aquaria than parasites.

You'll know when your torch is dead or dying when the head withdraws its tentacles and covers itself in a nasty brown goo...

Im in the US

uhh so should i like return the starfish? so far is has been nothing but good, and VERY amusing =D but if u really think i should, my LFS is VERY nice about taking fish back. Are there any starfish that are ok? cause i really have grown to like starfish.

Hmm... are crabs also punks? or will they be fine? i really would like at least crabs if not hermit crabs

so, should i/could i use a fuge for a QT tank? cause i plan on getting a fuge, but i dont want to get a fuge AND and QT tank =(


-There isnt that much space in my filter system for liverock rubble to fit in. What is filter floss, should i just go to my LFS and ask them to explain?
Filter floss is kind of like wool, it traps lots of particles and if your tank is cloudy it'll clear up really fast.
-and i have like 5 baby brittlestars in 1 of my rocks, is there anythig i should do?
They are most likely asterina stars. google them for more info, they usually aren't a problem.

I have been told that i might have truoble with my choco star, but so far it has does nothing bad and it became my favorite thing in my tank, but ill watch it,
-what bad things will it do?
i believe they are predators and might eat corals or fish, but I don't know for sure, try searching on google.

-alright and are there anythings i should be watchign for with crabs and hermit crabs will they eat anyhtign i dont want them to eat?
sometimes they will hunt down snails for the shells. Just provide a few extra shells for them to change to and you'll be fine.
-what type of hermit crab should i get?
scarlet hermit crabs the most commonly recommended.

1.What and how/why do u quarentine fish? (Does not quarentineing fish cause whitespots?)
Quarantine is when you hold the fish in a different tank to make sure it does not have any diseases, to help it adjust, and make sure it's eating. If you quarantine fish there is a much smaller risk of transfering diseases to your other fish. Usually a 20 gallon tank is big enough, all you need in it is a heater, a place to hide (not live rock) and a filter (preferably an established filter).
6.Can i and should i get a fuge with out a sump?
A refugium is always good. There are hang on back refugiums that you can buy.
9.What are diatoms? and how do i know if i have them?
It's like a furry brown algae, kind of like dust.
12.Do mushrooms, and polyps, leathers, and other solf corals need any speical additive, or food that i should feed them? Feather dusters also? or just phytoplankton?
Feather dusters need phytoplankton a few times a week, most corals don't need anything unless you have a lot.
13.What is a good sandsifting invert/fish that is reef-safe? and easy to take care of.
Fighting conch.
-How do i know when my torch is dead or dieing?

Na i know what asterinas are and im 99.999% sure these are brittle stars

Ok, so fuges are basically, a extra tank? do they interact with the main tank at all? if they are i can just use them to quarentine also right?


My other questions were:

Ok ill get some pictures of the top of my tank, but basicly, it is completely covered and theres like 1 inch from the water to the cover. And i dont have a sump. So is there anything u suggest or do you need pictures or a better description?

im geting live rock asap but we can only go to the pet store every weekend. And i keep TRYING to tell my dad but he doesnt like that fact of live rock, he thinks it a waste of money, does nothing, and if we put rocks in there, they will turn into live rocks...

Alright well i have 2 power heads now so i think theres enough water flowing, but wont the chaeto fly around? Should i point the power head at the chaeto?
and once i get the chaeto and live rocks settled then ill buy some pods (right now, to feed my blenny im just stuffing a bit of froz brine shrimp into a empty shell and droping it, she always finds it and she will eat alot of frozen foods.

So my main problem right now is no live rocks... For now should i just scoop the layer of algae on my sand off?
 
You can syphon off the algae. Rinse the sand in some fresh salt water then add it back. Thats what I did when I had a cyno outbreak.

By the looks of your system you may have to opt for a hang out external skimmer of some kind, but you will still have to modify your canapoy by cutting holes in the side for inlet and outlet pipies. Does the tank have side braces as well as front braces at the top of the tank? This again will effect what you can use.
You will need something like THIS

Cheato & powerheads..
Best thing to do is wedge a clump behind some rock work . Preferably in the flow path of one of the pwerheads but not directly in front of it. Just so it has flow going throw it and is not just sat stagnating somewhere in the tank where it will collect rubbish.

As for the live rock, if you cant get any locally you can try ordering online. I got all my live rock 40kg shipped overnight . Just have a few buckets of salt water ready to give it a really good rinse when it arrives.
 
ok, ive been siphoning it out, but it comes back really fast, like overnight and now is startign to look hairy

hmm ill get some pictures, i dont really know what u mean by braces but really, theres only a few small holes to put wires throught the back and other then that, its shut with no openings

Ok, i just need water flow so that stuff doesnt go in it and stay there.

Well my problem isnt, not being able to get live rock, but not being able to maintain my tank long enough to get live rock and how i have to add live rock slowly since i have stuff already in the tank.

The back is where the little holes are
DSC00372.jpg

DSC00373.jpg

DSC00371.jpg


EDIT: the smallist head on my torch died:*(

EDIT EDIT: i found a pod today =D i guess its been in ther for a while cause it was pretty big, but befire i could save it and put it in my chaeto white i got today, the blenny ate it =(

UPDATE
I got 8 more pounds of liverock and a emerald crab =D
no chaeto because the store closed :( but ill get it tomarrow

Pictures
DSC00384.jpg

DSC00386.jpg

DSC00390.jpg

DSC00389.jpg

DSC00388.jpg


EDIT agian...
We got a small colony of small zoos (this is as big as they get around here)
DSC00396.jpg


Edit: last time.... hopefully

Whats this thing under my mushroom? the mushroom doesnt look like he like ti verymuch... theres a few more around the tank..

DSC00398-1.jpg
 
UpDatE:
I got the testkit with calc, KH, and phosphate, results are on my 1st post. I think my calc is to low...

We also got a perc clown and another scooter blenny (i know that its not very wise to have 2 already) its a male and 2-3 times larger then the female...

when we put the male in, the female was following him EVERYWHERE right next to him, but now she doesnt =(\

will scooters eat white shrimp?

DSC00403.jpg

DSC00406.jpg

DSC00405.jpg

DSC00408.jpg


also i think another head on my torch died (the smallest 1) so im probably going to take it back to the LFS cause i'd ratehr give it away and it'll have a better chance living...
 
I get the impression here that someone is not listening :(
All along we have said get the tank stable before adding anything else alive otherwise you are risking its death :(
Whats the point of asking peoples advise if you just go and ignore it anyhow. As long as you keep throwing stuff in there, getting it stable is going to be an issue.
 
wow, two scooters and youve only seen one pod in your tank/not a large amount of macro/micro life filled live rock... good luck i must say.....

I agree with littleme
 
sorry :-( but this time a promise i won't get anything else till its stable, how do i know when its stable? my dad agreed this time, he always convinces me to get something.
the clown i admit i wanted, but the scooter was him

oh and the torch didnt die it just looked dead :\

im sure 1 scooter wil be fine because it eats frozen foods but the other 1 doesnt really like it

im up to 30 pounds of liverock now, how many pounds do i need?
is 300 to low for my calc?

sorry agian :( i really do appreciate your advice and help

EDIT: we exchanged the really big turbo snail for a smaller one because it kept knocking everything over...
and we found a baby stomatelle snail
 

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