Im Going To Get A Nitrate Filter (ducter)

[N1z]

As you might of herd huge nitrates, and ive been doing water changes but just aint going down but mainly i keep feeding the cyano with fresh nutrients! so frustrating.

Now what would be better,safer,cheaper to run..

A Aqua Medic Nitrateductor (closed) 1000
which coems with dosing pump, and cv computer or summit.

Or something like a nitrate filter that could connect to my external? like this
Ratz Sulphur Nitrate Denitrator

http/www.aquatics-online.co.uk/Z077196.asp
I really need some help as ive just orderd in a flame angle and a splendid dotty back, and even though they are hardy i dont want a shock for them, but i aint getting them till next week really..

cheers

 

[newtomarine]

Hi,

I'm no where near as experienced as you but I have read alot on Nitrate removers as I was thinking on one for my tank.

I decided not to get one because I read that if the flow of water is too slow through the remover it has an adverse effect on water quality and makes it toxic. If the water flow is too fast then apparently it smells of rotten eggs

Not sure if I've got thoses the right way round but either way if you get it wrong it's going to be bad.

Has anyone else heard of this ?

 

[Fatty]

Hi,

I'm no where near as experienced as you but I have read alot on Nitrate removers as I was thinking on one for my tank.

I decided not to get one because I read that if the flow of water is too slow through the remover it has an adverse effect on water quality and makes it toxic. If the water flow is too fast then apparently it smells of rotten eggs

Not sure if I've got thoses the right way round but either way if you get it wrong it's going to be bad.

Has anyone else heard of this ?

I've heard if it's too slow it smells, there's a build up of hydrogen, I think. But all you need to do is stick a bubbler on the denitrater exit to re-oxygenate the water, this releases the hydrogen.

Somebody might back me up on this...

I'd get one, just need to save the pennies, probably after my tunze setup!

 

[newtomarine]

Hi,

I'm no where near as experienced as you but I have read alot on Nitrate removers as I was thinking on one for my tank.

I decided not to get one because I read that if the flow of water is too slow through the remover it has an adverse effect on water quality and makes it toxic. If the water flow is too fast then apparently it smells of rotten eggs

Not sure if I've got thoses the right way round but either way if you get it wrong it's going to be bad.

Has anyone else heard of this ?

I've heard if it's too slow it smells, there's a build up of hydrogen, I think. But all you need to do is stick a bubbler on the denitrater exit to re-oxygenate the water, this releases the hydrogen.

Somebody might back me up on this...

I'd get one, just need to save the pennies, probably after my tunze setup!

That sounds more like it, I thought I had it the wrong way round, thanks for clearing that up.

 

[Matthew5664]

Better finding the course of the problem that to buy kit to help!

Are you stocked to high?

Do you have enough flow over the LR to aid filtration?

Is your skimmer working to the best of its abillity?

Is your skimmer the right size for the tank?

Whats the NO3 reading on the SW you use for water changes? Could be the salt could be the RO




It's no good putting a band aid over a gushing wound!

 

[N1z]

Ive got 30x flow in my tank and its a 52 gallon with 3 fish, one sifting star.
Ive got a tmc 400 skimmer which is fine, and 25 kilos of LR,

The water i tested seemed 0, and my reading are like 50 with one test kit and 100 in another. I cant grow macro algea for some reason, but plenty of cyano so if i keep doing water changes which ive done about 30% + it grows quick and thicker where if i leave it nitrates will continue to rise so why not its easier.

I rang my LFS they said i can attach it to my eheim with a D&D sulphur denitrate filter with a tap and t piece for 85 so im going for that.

 

[Matthew5664]

How much are you feeding and when?

when you say "The water i tested seemed 0, and my reading are like 50 with one test kit and 100 in another"

Is this the RO or the made up SW your testing? Plus I dont quite know what you meen by the the use of the word "seemed" is it 0 or isn't it? "and my reading" your reading of what? please rephrase

 

[SkiFletch]

Not sure if I've asked these questions before, but have you had your LFS verify your reading? Maybe an inaccurate test kit? And do you test your RO water with a TDS meter before making up saltwater? Might be time for a new filter or a cleaned filter...

 

[xNOTLOCx]

i agree its best to not try and cover things up, if you do anything to help nitrates you should try and get a refugium, im just guessing you have a sump with a tank that nice, but im not sure, i think thats the best thing, there r some uglier ways of getting your nitrates down, go to a petstore , and get a fish net breeder box thing, and set it up, then get a little calpurna lol( sorry i dnt rememebr the name of the nitrate reducing plant) and then put it inside of the fish breeder for a few weeks or forever, that can go in your tank(UGLY) or in a sump ect... most people make custom ones like a refugium, but again if you have no sump thats a cheap way, but a tank that size may need several of them, oh i have a flame angel and the nitrates in the quarantine tank are 40 (bad i kno) but i cant get em down, they just rise back up, every other day i do water changes in that tank, since its a 4 gallon, but hes fine, there amazing fish tho so i hope u enjoy em,

 

[N1z]

My RO unit is basically brand new only 2 months old. When i tested a fresh prepared bucket of water the reagind were 0. then with one test kit (tetra) the tank reading was 80-100mg and with a nutrafin one from work it was roughly 50mgs.
I dont have a sump, although i wish.

 

[Matthew5664]

I'd say get a new testkit.

Have you tryed a 25% WC then tak a reading then wait and see how long it takes to get back to the first reeding.

If you have 50ppm NO3 then 25% WC will drop it to 37.5ppm. Then wait and see how long it takes to get back to 50ppm and let us know

I'm very interested in the problem you have I can see anything worng with what your doing?

I'm cufuzzeled???

 

[Mr Miagi]

Are you saying you tested RO water in a buclet, or are you saying SW? Normal testkits wont accurately test RO water for things like Nitrate, so they are not a good indication of whats coming from your RO unit. Use a TDS meter, borrow your LFS's, or take in a sample! I agree though, your membrane shouldnt be shot yet, considering its age. It might be the brand or quality though.

 

[SkiFletch]

Are you saying you tested RO water in a buclet, or are you saying SW? Normal testkits wont accurately test RO water for things like Nitrate, so they are not a good indication of whats coming from your RO unit. Use a TDS meter, borrow your LFS's, or take in a sample! I agree though, your membrane shouldnt be shot yet, considering its age. It might be the brand or quality though.

Yeah, only a TDS meter can be used to test RO water for chemistry reasons which I dont have time to discuss here. If your kit says you have 50ppm of nitrates in saltwater and like matt said a 25% water change does not drop it, your kit is toast and you need a new one. You might want to try back-flushing your RO membrane or following the manufacturers instructions for cleaning it. I know mine needs cleaning once per month.

 

[Matthew5664]

Just another thought the bucket you use to make up your SW do you wash it out?

And how long do you leave the SW for befor it goes in the tank?

When left do you cover the bucket?

 

[N1z]

Well i dont have a tds meter u see and im strapped for cash in the terms of i really cnt spend any more.
My ro unit is osmotics.
I dont wash out my salt preparing bucket as its just to mkaing the water then pouring it in. i dont have a lid which sucks 2.