If The 1" To Gallon Is Only Vague.........

[stu40]

Hi
If we're assuming that the 1" to Gallon equation is only a vague guide,
I have a Rio 180, with the standard internal filter.Well planted with smooth gravel substrate.25% water change a week.


Current stock is
11 x Hengeli Rasboras
8 x Silvertip Tetras


Would like to add some Rummynose & another school for the bottom level.
any opinions on what would be reasonable.This is all for future stocking, as this tank is under 6 months old, so i'm taking it nice and slow.

Thanks

 

[drobbyb]

With 180L you have enough space to accommodate 2 more schools as long as you don't get too crazy with the numbers.

 

[stu40]

Ta
it's more like 160L really.Carried 16 buckets x 10 litres when i set up. Didn't need to workout that day

.

 

[kiriyama]

Shoot me down in flames but I have never used the rule
Taking into account rockwork using up space, types of fish (i.e. agrassion), some fish types require overstocking, over filtration... Your stock plan sounds nice though, think it will make a nice tank

 

[Davo86]

160L is roughly 42USG and considering the tank is under 6 months old the inch per gallon guideline works very well IMO, and once the tank is matured past the six months mark 1.5" - 2" per gallon is easily achievable, just takes a little common sense,

looking at the current stocking I'd say your using around 24" atm (based on an average size of 1.25" per fish) so you would arguably be able to add for example a smallish shoal of Rummynose (6) plus a group of Corys (6) and then post 6 months, even in a cautious stocking, you could still realistically add another 20" worth of small fish IMO

 

[anon02]

In theory if you check your nitrate level before your next water change and get a reading not in excess of 40ppm you can add say 5 rummy noses, then after about a fortnight if the nitrate is still at 40ppm I would take that to mean that the bacterial colony had grown sufficiently to handle the extra bioload and I would add another 5 rn to make up the shoal and so on, the trick is to know when the filter wont cope with any more stock and stop adding fish prior to that

 

[mattlee]

In theory if you check your nitrate level before your next water change and get a reading not in excess of 40ppm you can add say 5 rummy noses, then after about a fortnight if the nitrate is still at 40ppm I would take that to mean that the bacterial colony had grown sufficiently to handle the extra bioload and I would add another 5 rn to make up the shoal and so on, the trick is to know when the filter wont cope with any more stock and stop adding fish prior to that

tap water can have nitrate readings in excess of 40ppm before going near a tank. also nitrates will increase the more you feed the fish and on certain fishes bioload on the filter. small tetra type fish have hardly any bioload on a filter especially if not overfed.

as you have been taking your time by adding the stock to the tank which is applaudable as most people just stock a tank outright asap..... take your time to choose what type of fish you want next and add a group of 6-7 of the chosen fish. with what you have already i would be tempted to add either a group of corys or loaches. they will fill the empty space at the back giving your tank movement all over. if you do choose these fish then get all the same species dont mix and match as they will be better off and feel more secure and much more active and fun to watch.

corys and loaches again dont have a massive impact on a filters bioload but feed lightly for the first week and keep an eye on the water parameters for a couple of weeks. i would suggest testing every day for 2 weeks just incase. your 25% weekly water changes are a very good amount and should keep the fish healthy and happy. if the nitrates do start getting a bit high then just do a larger change every now and then. by changing 25% of the water a week you will only be removing 1/4 of the nitrates that have built up and as i said earlier tap water can and probably will contain nitrates any way. mine are at 10ppm the last time i tested so even with a 100% water change my nitrates will read 10. the lower the nitrate the better for any fish but they can tolerate quite high amounts of nitrate and still be fine so dont get too carried away thinking they have to be below 40ppm. also if the tank is well planted depending on the plant types they will also use up some of the nitrates to grow etc.

i would add a group of corys or loaches and review the tank. personally i think that bigger groups of fish look better than lots of smaller groups of different species but each to their own i guess..... maybe adding more rasboras and silver tips would look nice i lnow we all want lots of colour in our tanks and variety but nothing beats a group of say 40+ cardinal tetras or in your case rasboras

 

[stu40]

Shoot me down in flames but I have never used the rule
Taking into account rockwork using up space, types of fish (i.e. agrassion), some fish types require overstocking, over filtration... Your stock plan sounds nice though, think it will make a nice tank

Thanks for the positive comment will attempt to add photos at some point.Still trying to get to grips with replying to multiple posts

 

[stu40]

160L is roughly 42USG and considering the tank is under 6 months old the inch per gallon guideline works very well IMO, and once the tank is matured past the six months mark 1.5" - 2" per gallon is easily achievable, just takes a little common sense,

looking at the current stocking I'd say your using around 24" atm (based on an average size of 1.25" per fish) so you would arguably be able to add for example a smallish shoal of Rummynose (6) plus a group of Corys (6) and then post 6 months, even in a cautious stocking, you could still realistically add another 20" worth of small fish IMO

I thought i was closer to 33"atm (hengeli being 1.5" & silver 2")?
Did wonder about corys, but aren't they better suited to sand rather than gravel?

tap water can have nitrate readings in excess of 40ppm before going near a tank. also nitrates will increase the more you feed the fish and on certain fishes bioload on the filter. small tetra type fish have hardly any bioload on a filter especially if not overfed.

as you have been taking your time by adding the stock to the tank which is applaudable as most people just stock a tank outright asap..... take your time to choose what type of fish you want next and add a group of 6-7 of the chosen fish. with what you have already i would be tempted to add either a group of corys or loaches. they will fill the empty space at the back giving your tank movement all over. if you do choose these fish then get all the same species dont mix and match as they will be better off and feel more secure and much more active and fun to watch.

corys and loaches again dont have a massive impact on a filters bioload but feed lightly for the first week and keep an eye on the water parameters for a couple of weeks. i would suggest testing every day for 2 weeks just incase. your 25% weekly water changes are a very good amount and should keep the fish healthy and happy. if the nitrates do start getting a bit high then just do a larger change every now and then. by changing 25% of the water a week you will only be removing 1/4 of the nitrates that have built up and as i said earlier tap water can and probably will contain nitrates any way. mine are at 10ppm the last time i tested so even with a 100% water change my nitrates will read 10. the lower the nitrate the better for any fish but they can tolerate quite high amounts of nitrate and still be fine so dont get too carried away thinking they have to be below 40ppm. also if the tank is well planted depending on the plant types they will also use up some of the nitrates to grow etc.

i would add a group of corys or loaches and review the tank. personally i think that bigger groups of fish look better than lots of smaller groups of different species but each to their own i guess..... maybe adding more rasboras and silver tips would look nice i lnow we all want lots of colour in our tanks and variety but nothing beats a group of say 40+ cardinal tetras or in your case rasboras

My tap water is also 10ppm.I known the nitrate test can be tricky, but the readings have hardly changed for the last 2 months (hopefully the amount of live plants has been helping).I test for both ammonia & nitrite every couple of days still as i did fish in cycle.Feeding is also every other day.
I agree that larger groups of a few types is better looking (to each his own).I've got a single yoyo in another tank (long story), so i could add him/her plus another couple.Not sure how they'll get on with the Hengeli as yoyo can be a bit tasty when they mature i believe.Any other small loach suggestions?
As for 40 Hengeli's, I must be way too cautious

 

[mattlee]

not the cheapest loach around but polka dot loach are stunning and very playfull when in a group of 3+

 

[Davo86]

160L is roughly 42USG and considering the tank is under 6 months old the inch per gallon guideline works very well IMO, and once the tank is matured past the six months mark 1.5" - 2" per gallon is easily achievable, just takes a little common sense,

looking at the current stocking I'd say your using around 24" atm (based on an average size of 1.25" per fish) so you would arguably be able to add for example a smallish shoal of Rummynose (6) plus a group of Corys (6) and then post 6 months, even in a cautious stocking, you could still realistically add another 20" worth of small fish IMO

I thought i was closer to 33"atm (hengeli being 1.5" & silver 2")?
Did wonder about corys, but aren't they better suited to sand rather than gravel?

Again think of it as a guideline not a rule, with the above I've allocated for the standard size (not including the tail) but also compared them to other fish of this size, i.e. a 2" cory/gourami/molly would effect the bioload more than a 2" silvertip, both species are small slim species so the bioload isn't that high IMO

fine gravel shouldn't pose a problem to corys

 

[waterdrop]

Ah, it is always so comforting when Davo86 and mattlee and various other experienced members pop in for a visit with some good comments! It's so important to use the word guideline and not rule and it is so very much a jumping off point for beginners, just something that gets you into the -process.- There are so many other layers that need to be applied to the stocking plan process beyond that first rough inch consideration that gives you a little start-off traction!

WD

 

[stu40]

Ah,the benefits of experience, knowing how far you can push the guidelines.
Seriously though, appreciate the comments.
One more thing.6mm, smooth gravel, suitable for corys? or is that pushing the guideline too far?

 

[Tizer]

Well you did mention it was smooth so should be ok, the more adult corys would deal with it but young ones might not be able to throw it about as easily when looking for food.

i swapped over to sand as soon as i realised i wanted corys, its really not hard. playground sand from Argos, washed, then scoop out the gravel with a dustpan. put in sand slowly with a measuring jug or something and cloudy water will vanish in about 2 hours. just depends how well you wash it. i find cleaning sand far easier than gravel and the fish seem far happier, even the mid water ones come down for a rummage.

 

[waterdrop]

I wonder if the irony would be that corys actually prefer very fine... mud! I've seen videos and some info that makes me think that sometimes. Mind you, I'm not sure and have never snorkled with them, lol.

The one cory expert I've heard talks from and who I've talked to both in person and over the phone has indicated that it's more about what your hand feels and less about the particle size. Just take any substrate, from pebbles all the way down to sand and rub it within your hand and think about whether you think it feels soft and comforting to your skin as opposed to scratchy and you'll be closer to feeling like the cory does.

This guy likes to go way out in remote streams away from any significant human population intrusion and find natural gravel that has been smoothed at stream-bottom for probably hundreds of years. Every little pebble or grain of sand is smooth and rounded in that case (an ideal most of us can't reach of course.)

WD