Iching !

Fish2u

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Found several white dots (dot glows on light) on my newly introduced (bought from PetSmart) gold twin bar platys (male is heavily infected, female is not that bad). One of the red swordtails has one dot on its tailfin too. Searched over the net, read about the parasite that causes ick and its lifecycle and I'm confused. There are two different schools of thoughts on how to treat ick. One recommends adding medications like QuickCure and the other recommends adding salt and raising the temperature above 87F. How about doing both? Here is what I'm going to do:
1) Remove the carbon from the filter
2) Do a 25% water change
3) Gradually raise the temp to 87F over next couple of days
4) Add 40 grams of salt
5) Add first dose of Quickcure
6) Add 5 ml Melafix
7) Watch for next couple of days
 
I would say using the salt and raise the temperature up to 84F degrees at the most. I would not combine quickcure, melafix and salt all together as this could be to much stress on your fish. So start with one medication follow the directions on that and go from there.

I only rose my temperature up to 82F degrees and the ich cleared in 3 days. I also used Coppersafe made by Mardel.
 
It depends on what other fish you have in the tank. I personally do not like combining meds and salt and raised temps all together and meds only when absolutely needed. I have NEVER used meds to treat ick and only l

It depends on what other fish you have in the tank. I personally do not like combining meds and salt and raised temps all together and meds only when absolutely needed. I have NEVER used meds to treat ick and only lost two fish with my treatments. I like to add 1/2 to 3/4 of a tbsp. of salt per 10 gallons of water and raise temps to 85-86 for 2 weeks. I do a 10% water change every day or two and replace salt as needed. It's also a good idea to turn your airstone if you have one on full blast and/or lower the water level in the tank by an inch. The high water temps have less oxygen and lowering the water level makes your filters create more turbulance which adds oxygen to the water.

I have successfully used this with an oscar, convicts, various barbs, pictus, bn plecos, bolivian rams, clown loaches, firemouths, goldfish, koi, giant danios, guaramis, and probably a few others. The only fish I have ever lost while doing this were a pictus catfish and a giant danio. The temps and or salt are what killed the pictus.The danio I suspect was the victim of a larger much hungrier tankmate who couldnt quite finish the whole meal.

Any temps higher than I believe 86 are no further benefit to removing/killing the ick. In 86+ degrees every form of the life cycle will be dead in 14-16 days. Any lower than that and it could take longer for its life cycle to end. This is when not using meds, I can not really offer and help or advice when using medicine although I'd imagine it works very well.

editDon't forget to do massive water changes when your done to remove the salt. Also lower the temp back to normal very gradually.
 
Did the following (no meds yet) :

1) Changed 25% water
2) Added two spoons of aquarium salt
3) Added 5 ml of CopperSafe (recommended by a fellow hobbyist)
4) Raised the temp to 87 F
5) Watching Closely -_-

P.S: Forgot to mention: Air stone at full blast (to increase gas exchange through the surface agitation)
 
Did the following (no meds yet) :

1) Changed 25% water
2) Added two spoons of aquarium salt
3) Added 5 ml of CopperSafe (recommended by a fellow hobbyist)
4) Raised the temp to 87 F
5) Watching Closely -_-

Yep just keep a very good watch on them. Make sure you have increased aeration to add oxygen to the water with the high temps.
 
Woohoo !! Its working ! :hyper:
My female platy and red swordtail do not have any white spots anymore ! Male platy still has few.
Did a 20% water change and added 2 ml of coppersafe. Temperature is steady at 88F. Airstone at full blast.
 
Woohoo !! Its working ! :hyper:
My female platy and red swordtail do not have any white spots anymore ! Male platy still have few.
Did a 20% water change and added 2 ml of coppersafe. Temperature is steady at 88F. Airstone at full blast.

CONGRATS!!!!!!! Just do not make the mistake I did my first time and lower the temps and removing salt before 14 days. Mine are normally looking better after only a few days but it takes the full 2 weeks to kill it in every form of the life cycle.
 
Nothing changed. Added half dose of QuickCure. Maintaining 87F, airstone is at full blast.
Watching :unsure:
 
All visible white spots are now gone ! That means probably the parasites are in the second phase of their life cycle. Added another dose of QuickCure, keeping the temperatire @87F and air stone at full blast. I can see the fishes are stressed but I need to continue the treatment for another 9 days :eek:
 
ICH is BACK ! :crazy: More importantly Malachite green probably ???? screwed up nitrifying bacteria colony as I'm getting .20 ppm Ammonia reading ... Filter sponge, silicon layers are all blue ... What a mess ! ????
 
when this is present in the tank can u see it floating around in water as tiny white particals?
 
I can't see these in the water as floating particles but I can see these on the fish. After first couple of days, all white spots were gone but now these are reappearing (on fins, body) despite the fact that I maintained the steady 87F temp. This is probably the second phase and I need to apply the second dose of that awful malachite green stuff !!
 
After much deliberation I added the second dose of QuickCure. Temperature is 87F.
Ammonia reading is still .25 ppm and Nitrite reading is .25 ppm. My fully cycled tank is now cycling again !! :sick:
 

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