ICH HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!&#

[Debo]

OK-My tank is sparkling clean-SPOTLESS. ALL water levels are perfect. There are no Bullies. I keep all new fish in a holding tank for a month prior to their release into their new big home. SO..................my clown loaches, new ones have ICH. They got it a week after being put into the new tank. So my question is ...........REGARDING MEDS and WATER CHANGES. I have used Copper safe with no luck............The Jungle knocks the spots off in two days...so should I use that but use for 14 days even tho it says to stop once the spots are off? Also....is there any med for ich that you can add daily and NOT do water changes? Is it really a necessity to do this daily?{WATER CHANGE}

I know you keep saying don't treat, but I have kept the temp up.
I do quarantine fish.
I have excellent water quality.
My tank is very clean....even the gravel.
I have no BULLIES.
I am very anal so I take care of them as well as I did my kids!!!
Deb

 

[Cian McLiam]

SO..................my clown loaches, new ones have ICH. They got it a week after being put into the new tank.

Sorry Debo, I know your saying 'will he ever shut up' but, transferring to a new tank IS stress! You can kick me later but take comfort from one source who said that fish somehow aquire an immunity from Ich, also scaleless fish like loaches are easy targets for the buggers. When I used meds last I used WS3 White Spot Terminator which I added 1/4 dose every day instead of full dose every two days as stated on the pack, thats not advice by the way!! Water changes are like opeing a window in a stuffy room, your removing bacteria, dissolved solids and bio waste. Without it its like having a 'smoking' recovery room in a hospital.
You could go 2-3 days without, some products say after a week of treatment but I think its worth the bother of 10% daily changes of water, aerated overnight with an airstone and brought to room temp.

Ken

 

[Debo]

Hi
So I can do a 10% change and that is ok? I don't mind doing a water change daily, but the problem for me is doing a 25% cange everyday for 14 daYs straight..........I have a serious shoulder problem and lift 15-20 gallons everyday is a problem for me. I have no problem doing it weekly at all, but the daily 25% is brutal for me. So I can handle the 10% change everyday. I am using a half dose of the meds each day as compared to full strength. The temp is at 82. Should I raise it even more? I will continue to keep doing the change,10% and adding the meds each day.
Question-So if I have quarantined my fish for a month, I thought that this would prevent strees when re-introducing to the mew digs? Was I mis-informed? Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate.
Deb

 

[Alien Anna]

I agree with Ken - transfering to a new tank could have been the trigger.

You also need to consider pH. Often a new tank has a naturally higher pH (if you're in a hard water area) than an old tank. Changes in pH stress fish quicker than anything. This would also be true if you've used pH modifying products such as pH Down.

Next, consider the nighttime temperature. Are your thermostats actually kicking in properly and keeping the temperature up? When you get up in the morning early, before you turn the tank lights on, what is the temperature? Use an internal mercury thermometer as the external sticker variety often fail.

Next, a new tank often has a lower nitrate level than the old tank. Sudden changes in nitrates, even if they're "good" can stress fish.

So what you need to do now is to treat any current ich with a combination of meds and temperature (Ken and I are agreed on that, I think) and allow the population of your tank to settle for 6 weeks or so before buying any new stock or making any major changes.

 

[Debo]

{You also need to consider pH. Often a new tank has a naturally higher pH (if you're in a hard water area) than an old tank. Changes in pH stress fish quicker than anything. This would also be true if you've used pH modifying products such as pH Down.}

MY PH IS A CONSTANT 7.2 ALL THE TIME. BOTH THE HOLDING TANK AND THE DISPLAY TANK HAVE THE EXACT SAME WATER LEVELS. I also never use any chemicals to alter the PH as it is always the same....we have well water here in NH.





Next, consider the nighttime temperature. Are your thermostats actually kicking in properly and keeping the temperature up? When you get up in the morning early, before you turn the tank lights on, what is the temperature? Use an internal mercury thermometer as the external sticker variety often fail.


{DO CHECK THE TEMP WHILE THE LIGHTS ARE OFF AND IT IS ALWAYS THE SAME. I actually have 2 internal thermometers. One is on the front of the tank and one is on the rear. I also have 2 250 watt heaters. They are both working and I have them on the opposite ends of the tank for even distribution.}

{Next, a new tank often has a lower nitrate level than the old tank. Sudden changes in nitrates, even if they're "good" can stress fish.}


Nitrate levels in both tanks are the same.

{So what you need to do now is to treat any current ich with a combination of meds and temperature (Ken and I are agreed on that, I think) and allow the population of your tank to settle for 6 weeks or so before buying any new stock or making any major changes. }


OK-Thanks for the input. I will let everyone settle down for a bit. All seems to be well this evening. The spots are now off but will continue with the meds and water changes for the next 14 days. I'll let you know how I make out.