I want some color without overcrowding.

[Byron]

You're on the right track.

The Master test kit contains ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. It does not contain GH, and rather than buy a test for this and only use it once, you might be able to find out the GH from your municipal water authority. Check their website, or call them. We/you need to know the number and their unit of measurement (there are several).

 

[seangee]

so I ordered a new filter. It is now set up and running. There has been water in the tank for a week and a half, but the filter has only been running for 4 days.

If you haven't found it already this is worth a read https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/

I have too often heard fish shop staff advising people to run the filter for a few days before adding fish. Unfortunatley it takes a bit more than that...

 

[Catlady379]

If you haven't found it already this is worth a read https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/

I have too often heard fish shop staff advising people to run the filter for a few days before adding fish. Unfortunatley it takes a bit more than that...

I also purchased API brand Quick Start to try and speed up the tank cycle.

 

[Catlady379]

Ok, I checked my water with the new test kit and there is no ammonia or nitrites but high nitrates. I did a 10% water change and added a piece of driftwood and about 8 water wisteria plants yesterday. I am not going to add any new fish since I am having trouble finding out the actual GH. I live out in the boonies and the phone number is to the water maintenance man only and he doesn't know the answer. I've decided to only move the fish I already have to the bigger tank when it's ready. How do I know when it's okay to start moving them? Do I move them all at once or just a few at a time?

 

[Naughts]

Ok, I checked my water with the new test kit and there is no ammonia or nitrites but high nitrates. I did a 10% water change and added a piece of driftwood and about 8 water wisteria plants yesterday. I am not going to add any new fish since I am having trouble finding out the actual GH. I live out in the boonies and the phone number is to the water maintenance man only and he doesn't know the answer. I've decided to only move the fish I already have to the bigger tank when it's ready. How do I know when it's okay to start moving them? Do I move them all at once or just a few at a time?

Did you add any ammonia or fish food to the tank? I don't think you have cycled this tank (it takes about Six weeks) but I don't know why there are high nitrates. What number did you get on the nitrate test? Did you get old substrate with the tank and was this kept wet?
If you're ten gallon is cycled (filter media has been in for six weeks+ to grow beneficial bacteria) you don't need a fishless cycle for the big tank. If you move the filter, or use the media out of the filter, from the old tank to the new tank this will give you the beneficial bacteria. You do this at the same time as moving all of the fish. To keep the beneficial bacteria make sure the filter media is kept wet and if you rinse it out, only use tank water, not tap water as the chlorine can kill the bacteria. If moving the media only, put it in the new filter as it needs water and oxygen for the bacteria to thrive.
BTW, when you move your fish, watch a demo video first to reduce stress, for them and you! e.g.

 

[Essjay]

Re nitrates, what is the level in your tap water? Some areas have nitrate at almost the legal limit, and high tank nitrate could just be from tap water.

As Naughts said, you can move all the filter and fish at the same time. You can cut up sponges to make them fit a different filter, and squeeze anything else in however it takes to make it fit. Fill any empty spaces with media that is supposed to be in the new filter.

Don't feed the fish the day before you transfer them, or the day itself. Feed them half rations for a few days after the transfer. Monitor ammonia and nitrite daily until you are sure they are staying at zero. If either show above zero, do a water change.



Do you have an LFS nearby? If you do, take a sample of tap water and ask them to test for GH and KH. Make sure you get a number and the unit rather than some vague words like 'soft'.

 

[Jan Cavalieri]

You may just be stuck with them, in which case frequent (very frequent) water changes will help control the issues you will have with overcrowding. Frankly, I would consider purchasing a second tank. You can rearrange the fish between the two tanks and get the color you want. You want color? Try getting the neon Tetras in all different colors. But again since you are overstocked already you need to purchase a second tank to handle any more fish. That's why I now have 4 tanks (LOL) I'm addicted. Also since you are having a community fish tank make sure EVERY fish you get has a rating of "peaceful" - skip any that say semi-aggressive unless you have enough of those to fill their own tank together - but keep them away from the peaceful fish. Once I removed my peaceful large Gourami's and put them in a different tank, I left the semi-aggressive Gourami's in their own tank. While they do chase after each other they cause no damage - when I had the peaceful ones mixed with the semi-aggressive ones - it was a nightmare - while no fish died, the peaceful ones were constantly harassed. Now that they are in their own tank they are happier and my semi-aggressive fish have even settled down.

Anyway my point is that there are a LOT of things to consider to solve your situation. Research each species of fish before you purchase them - not just for aggressiveness but for PH, water hardness, temperature tolerance etc.

Bottom line, get a second tank of at least 29 gallons and you'll have the flexibility you want and the space to add colorful fish. Once you've established one tank it's really not that much more hassle to get a second one. (Just don't get 4 like I did, all I do is water changes and filter cleaning LOL - but I also have all the fish I've wanted so it's worth it to me). Since I'm disabled it can be a huge struggle some days but it's also great exercise for me and I feel better than I have in years. But if you are working full-time or a full-time student I would limit the number of tanks to 2 or you're going to feel like you have two jobs and start slacking off on water changes and other maintenance.

 

[Naughts]

Jan

You may just be stuck with them, in which case frequent (very frequent) water changes will help control the issues you will have with overcrowding. Frankly, I would consider purchasing a second tank. You can rearrange the fish between the two tanks and get the color you want. You want color? Try getting the neon Tetras in all different colors. But again since you are overstocked already you need to purchase a second tank to handle any more fish. That's why I now have 4 tanks (LOL) I'm addicted. Also since you are having a community fish tank make sure EVERY fish you get has a rating of "peaceful" - skip any that say semi-aggressive unless you have enough of those to fill their own tank together - but keep them away from the peaceful fish. Once I removed my peaceful large Gourami's and put them in a different tank, I left the semi-aggressive Gourami's in their own tank. While they do chase after each other they cause no damage - when I had the peaceful ones mixed with the semi-aggressive ones - it was a nightmare - while no fish died, the peaceful ones were constantly harassed. Now that they are in their own tank they are happier and my semi-aggressive fish have even settled down.

Anyway my point is that there are a LOT of things to consider to solve your situation. Research each species of fish before you purchase them - not just for aggressiveness but for PH, water hardness, temperature tolerance etc.

Bottom line, get a second tank of at least 29 gallons and you'll have the flexibility you want and the space to add colorful fish. Once you've established one tank it's really not that much more hassle to get a second one. (Just don't get 4 like I did, all I do is water changes and filter cleaning LOL - but I also have all the fish I've wanted so it's worth it to me). Since I'm disabled it can be a huge struggle some days but it's also great exercise for me and I feel better than I have in years. But if you are working full-time or a full-time student I would limit the number of tanks to 2 or you're going to feel like you have two jobs and start slacking off on water changes and other maintenance.

The OP has her third tank, a 65 gallon!

 

[Catlady379]

I don't have an LFS close. When I set up the big tank I used some decoration pieces from my smaller tank and once I got the new filter set up I used API Quick Start. I have run the new filter continuously since I got it. It is entirely probable that the nitrates are elevated in the tap water here. I retested the water and it still showed 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites. The nitrates had dropped from almost160 to 80 ppm.

 

[Essjay]

Nitrates should really not exceed 20 ppm. Even 80 ppm is way too high.

Have you tested a sample of tap water for nitrate? That is the lowest you can get tank nitrate just by doing water changes. Some places have more than 20 ppm in their tap water, but I have never heard of anywhere that allows more than 50 ppm in drinking water. Your tank nitrate is higher than that. If you tap water nitrate is nice and low, you need to do several large water changes to reduce tank nitrate to the same as tap nitrate. In post #34 you mentioned doing a 10% water change - is this the amount you usually change? 10% is a very small water change, you should be doing at least 50%, and that amount once a week.

 

[Catlady379]

I tested my tap water and I can't tell if it is 40 or 80. The colors are really close to me. Here are a few pictures of the tube and chart.

 

[seangee]

Ouch - that looks like my tap water. I'm afraid I don't use it. There are filtration options. Search for Pozzani on this site, that is one I have tried and it does work. I have used that successfully but these days I use RO water. You can buy this or buy your own RO filter depending on how big your tanks are and how much you need for water changes. Depending on what fish you stock you may have to add back minerals as RO water is extremely soft.

 

[Catlady379]

I ordered a nitrate reducer. The water is a bit cloudy. It is a 65 gallon tank and I have a Penn-Plax Cascade canister filter 1000. 265 GPH - up to 100 gallons. I have the spray bar for the water return. I am wondering do I need to get a bubble stone to move the water more to help with algae? I had a problem with cloudy water in my 10 gallon and once I added a bubble stone the water seemed to clear a lot. I have a picture of my tank setup. What do you think? Do I need a bubble stone?

 

[Catlady379]

I also got to looking at what I had in the canister filter and I already have an API Nitra-Zorb large filter pouch in there. It's supposed to help remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

 

[Catlady379]

I added amazon frogbit and anubia to the java moss and water wisteria today. I did a 25% water change and still have cloudy water. I will keep testing and get it straightened out.