Hot Tap Water

I still have an immerser heater on what I presume will be a copper hot water tank. Pipes also copper. Would I be safer boiling my water in case there are traces of copper in my hot supply? Been using the kettle so far but it means boiling it about six or seven times when changing both tanks :eek:(

Boiling won't remove copper. If you're worried, make sure you use a dechlorinator that locks up heavy metals, and then you'll be fine to use hot water from the tap :)
 
Thanks fluttermoth. I use Seachem Prime which is supposed to remove heavy metals so would probably be ok then. Certainly be easier on my poor kettle. lol
 
Prime will certainly lock up the copper safely, you'll be fine. Then you can use the kettle to make a nice cup of tea for when you're finished ;)
 
:good:
Thanks fluttermoth. I use Seachem Prime which is supposed to remove heavy metals so would probably be ok then. Certainly be easier on my poor kettle. lol
 
I stated I have a hot water tank that may or may not be copper. This house is 30 years old with original pipes, tank, and hot water heater (which is on its last leg). IMO copper isn't a issue. I know my tap water hot or cold tests safe for copper levels. Besides plants will use copper. My cherry shrimp population is not phased in the least by the levels of copper in my tap and the stuff I add in fertilizers. Too much of a thing is bad, but too little can be just as bad IMO.
 
I stated I have a hot water tank that may or may not be copper. This house is 30 years old with original pipes, tank, and hot water heater (which is on its last leg). IMO copper isn't a issue. I know my tap water hot or cold tests safe for copper levels. Besides plants will use copper. My cherry shrimp population is not phased in the least by the levels of copper in my tap and the stuff I add in fertilizers. Too much of a thing is bad, but too little can be just as bad IMO.


It is copper.
 
Every time these discussions get started it's one of the more entertaining things for us yanks. You guys over there with the colder climes have to have much more serious heating systems than we do usually. I was just about to ask for an explaination of "cylinder" when I realized I should just google some images myself and I got a great one of some UK heating firm. I was reminded that the older homes over there often have 3 items where we only have a single gas/electric hot water tank. Your 3 are the attic tanks, the boiler for the radiators and the "cylinder," (which is what we could call the hot water tank) with the clever thing of a coil of hot pipe from the boiler. Gosh, I'd love to have a nice radiator system like that rather than the dry hot air in my place!

I agree with Mikaila and Fluttermoth, probably too much gets made of copper problems.

WD
 
How do you guys dechlorinate. The reason i ask is i did a 90% down to substrate water change on my tank last week. Added enough dechlorinator to tank for the water i was adding (based on highest amount to cover chlromine and chrlorine) then filled it back up. Waited 5 minutes then turned the pump and heater back on. This seems to have set my cycle back a bit. Now seeing spikes of ammonia and nitrite and i'm wondering if somehow chlorine has made it into the filter. Also when you top up with fish in the tank do you add enough dechlorinator for the water your adding or for the volumn of the tank as a whole.
 
How do you guys dechlorinate. The reason i ask is i did a 90% down to substrate water change on my tank last week. Added enough dechlorinator to tank for the water i was adding (based on highest amount to cover chlromine and chrlorine) then filled it back up. Waited 5 minutes then turned the pump and heater back on. This seems to have set my cycle back a bit. Now seeing spikes of ammonia and nitrite and i'm wondering if somehow chlorine has made it into the filter. Also when you top up with fish in the tank do you add enough dechlorinator for the water your adding or for the volumn of the tank as a whole.
I dechlorinate the water in my buckets when doing water changes, but i have read threads where members use the same method mentioned above.
 
Buckets where fine until my water changes hit 300l a week :hyper:
 
I will never understand why we panic in this hobby about copper and other heavy metals. Unless you want to talk about specific poisonous heavy metals like lead or mercury. But if these are coming out of your tap above the safe legal limits then there are more important things to worry about then its effect on your fish. Copper, scary copper is a ESSENTIAL trace element for ALL living organisms. Your shrimp, fish, and you need copper to survive. If anyone was ever successful in completely removing copper from their aquarium every living thing in it would suffer, down to your beneficial bacteria. Luckily despite alot of peoples attempts to remove it from their water via various means like binding it up with Prime and using RO. You can not get rid of it completely. Most here probably never knew it but they add heavy metals including copper every time they feed their fish. Now you can all panic about the fish food poisoning your fish and inverts or you can finally realize maybe, just maybe those things are there for a reason. Quite a few other heavy metals are also essential trace elements: Iron, zinc, manganese, molybdenum, and cobalt. Iron, copper, and zinc are the ones often found in tap water, along with nickel which isn't essential or toxic but is important. Most of these are present in very trace levels in tap often measured in PPB(parts per billion).

Below is what comes out of my tap in PPM since its more familiar for most of us, we have a old gas water heater that stores the hot water in a enclosed metal tank. The water is from our well, house has copper pipes and is 30 years old. Water is run for a minuet or two before taking a testing sample.

Iron-0.002-0.3 PPM
copper- 0.001-0.13 PPM
Lead- 0.002-0.015 PPM

I don't add a single thing too my water except fertilizers, no dechlor or binding compounds. Hose from tap to tank 50% WC weekly with matched water temp. I breed cherry shrimp and have spawned a number of different species of fish in it. Now of course not all water is the same. Since we are focusing on copper here the max limit in drinking water in the US is 1.3 PPM. A high level like this will certainly be lethal to shrimp, but in all likely hood your water will be tasting like pennies too. All these elements have a lethal concentration that varies for each organism and is effected by other factors in the water. Again too little and too much can be a bad thing.

As far as food goes some like my Hikari lists the amount of copper it contains. Again these traces will not harm anything in the tank. Most foods don't list it in the analysis, but its right there in the ingredients list. Often its surrounded by the other heavy metal compounds. All the prepared fish foods I have ever looked at have some of these ingredients. Copper sulfate is what is added to food for supplying copper, it is almost always in fish food. Those familiar with compounds in this hobby will recognize this as a active-ingredient in many anti-ich/parasite medications(coppersafe is one). Again the only difference here is concentration and the fact that even your sensitive shrimp are not going to flop over at trace levels of copper and heavy metals. Its not even a issue for fish, because like stated above treating fish using copper is very common in this hobby. The rest of the common heavy metal ingredients in food are: ferrous sulfate(iron), Zinc sulfate, manganese sulfate, and cobalt sulfate. Most all foods from tetramin to NLS have most of these.

So. What does it all mean? It means if your afraid, unsure, confused, ect... you can still do the regular procedures for heavy metal "removal". Since you feed them to the fish anyway. Plants may suffer though depending on tank setup. Or you can throw your hands up in the air like you just don't care.
 

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