I posted in the fish emergencies section already about problems I'm having with one of my fish. I'm currently using a mason jar as a hospital tank. I know it isn't ideal but I was caught unprepared and needed to get him out of the main tank. I do want to establish a hospital tank but need setup advice. How big does it have to be? Can I use one of those little desktop or betta tanks? I read one article saying it can be broken down while not in use. If I do that, how do I manage the ammonia/nitrite issues? It took me almost 6 weeks to establish the biofilter in my existing tank...how can a hospital tank be healthy if I break it down between uses? What should go into a hospital tank? Looks like most people keep theirs pretty austere...
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Hospital Tank Setup How To's?
- Thread starter Saf1
- Start date
Firstly the size of the hospital tank depends on the size of the fish.
I have a spare 65litre which is more than adequate for anything I keep.
It's bare bottom. The bottom sprayed on the outside to give the illusion of gravel and the back is sprayed black. Plants are all silk or moss. Lighting is not essential but you may want a cheap LED for when you need to get a better look at the fish that are in there.
I use an internal Eheim sponge filter and when this tank isn't in use I place that sponge into a cannister filter to retain any bacteria.
What sort of tank is it you have at the moment? You can possibly cut and remove some of the sponge from your existing filter and add it to a new filter. This will transplant the bacterial colony over and it should then colonise the new sponge. Just ensure that when you fill the new tank with water you use an additive to remove any chlorine from the tap water as this will kill of the bacteria.
if I were you I'd get on Ebay or Gumtree or freeads and see if someone is just giving something away. I'd be careful about using any electrical items that come with it but a cheap LED light, heater and filter can be picked up for £50 for the lot, depending on your exact requirements.
A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank for when you get new stock.
I have a spare 65litre which is more than adequate for anything I keep.
It's bare bottom. The bottom sprayed on the outside to give the illusion of gravel and the back is sprayed black. Plants are all silk or moss. Lighting is not essential but you may want a cheap LED for when you need to get a better look at the fish that are in there.
I use an internal Eheim sponge filter and when this tank isn't in use I place that sponge into a cannister filter to retain any bacteria.
What sort of tank is it you have at the moment? You can possibly cut and remove some of the sponge from your existing filter and add it to a new filter. This will transplant the bacterial colony over and it should then colonise the new sponge. Just ensure that when you fill the new tank with water you use an additive to remove any chlorine from the tap water as this will kill of the bacteria.
if I were you I'd get on Ebay or Gumtree or freeads and see if someone is just giving something away. I'd be careful about using any electrical items that come with it but a cheap LED light, heater and filter can be picked up for £50 for the lot, depending on your exact requirements.
A hospital tank can also be used as a quarantine tank for when you get new stock.
I recommend a bare bottom tank with zero decorations. Use PVC as a hiding place for the fish. Like the one shown below. This makes working in the tank easier, helps reduce clean up and algae, and leaves no place for parasites to hide.
You can use filter media from the main tank on the hospital tank but don't return it to the main tank after you are done to avoid transferring any parasites or fungus back into the main tank. This is a just in case thing but worth the caution in my opinion.
A hospital tank doesn't have to be as large as the fish needs for long term health, it can be smaller but just remember it's easier on the fish to have more water present as the waste to water ration will be higher and thus the PPM of ammonia etc. will be smaller.
Basically it has the things your main tank has with the exception of lighting, decor, and substrate, it really needs zero lighting but a heater and flow/filter is important.
You can use filter media from the main tank on the hospital tank but don't return it to the main tank after you are done to avoid transferring any parasites or fungus back into the main tank. This is a just in case thing but worth the caution in my opinion.
A hospital tank doesn't have to be as large as the fish needs for long term health, it can be smaller but just remember it's easier on the fish to have more water present as the waste to water ration will be higher and thus the PPM of ammonia etc. will be smaller.
Basically it has the things your main tank has with the exception of lighting, decor, and substrate, it really needs zero lighting but a heater and flow/filter is important.
OK thanks. I love the PVC idea. My current tank is 15 gallons with about 6 small guppies, 3 little brown snails, and a handful of live plants. I don't think the guppies need a huge space as a hospital tank but agree that water quality has to be a consideration. I also like the idea of maintaining filter media in the main tank so I have an instant biofilter. Will have to do some shopping 
. Thanks for the advice!
. Thanks for the advice!My thinking is to set the fish at ease which is why I do have some decor in the hospital tank.
Just because it's a hospital/QT tank doesn't mean it shouldn't look nice Link to mine below.
https
/flic.kr/p/ynzN9u
Just because it's a hospital/QT tank doesn't mean it shouldn't look nice
Link to mine below.https
/flic.kr/p/ynzN9u
The reason for not having the decor is that it can often act as a hiding place for parasites and detritus both of which you don't want in a hospital tank. PVC is a non porous material and is easy to clean too.Far_King said:My thinking is to set the fish at ease which is why I do have some decor in the hospital tank.
Just because it's a hospital/QT tank doesn't mean it shouldn't look niceLink to mine below.
https
Well, my husband is always doing projects around the house and has several pieces if never used PVC laying around, so I think I'll try that since it's here and it's free! I went ahead and ordered a small tank, heater, air pump, and sponge filter. Unfortunately my little patient passed away this morning, but I'll be ready next time.
tcamos said:
Saf1 said:
I'm sorry to hear that you lost your fish. As you say though, you'll be prepared for next time. Sadly these problems can appear overnight and I know that I would have lost fish myself if I'd not had a separate tank available for them to recover in.
Sorry to hear of your loss, you did your best and even better you are prepared for next time
I use a LED multi bulb torch over a sick tank if needed to check anything, otherwise I just let natural light be what the fish has, assisting in recovery I.e. Basically you do not need to invest in a light.
I use a LED multi bulb torch over a sick tank if needed to check anything, otherwise I just let natural light be what the fish has, assisting in recovery I.e. Basically you do not need to invest in a light.
So for your hospital tank or quarantine tanks, after your fish is conditioned or recovered, do you throw out the everything like bio rings, sponges, polypads except the hardware and then just rinse the hardware, tank filter and heater with tap water so the chloride can kill the bacteria?
If you are treating a fish for an unknown illness you pretty much have to get rid of items that are likely to harbor the illness/fungus/bacteria/virus/parasite otherwise you risk it returning. Many of these things have dormant periods where they can survive. Some don't, like ich, it really needs a fish host to complete its lifecycle, but some fungus can be dormant.
That's why I don't recommend anything too fancy in terms of filtration for a hospital tank.
That's why I don't recommend anything too fancy in terms of filtration for a hospital tank.
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