Hoping For Harlequin Help, Please & Thank-you

Syphoniera

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Hi, (unisex terminology) guys,
I really do need some info ASAP from some brilliant, Harlequin-knowledgeable person, and I'm afraid that if I start rewriting this throughout-the-day-between-fish-fussing stream-of-consciousness litany of too-tired-to-think-straight-panic at 5:00 AM in some attempt to make sense out of it and cut the stupidest/found to be redundant bits, there won't be anything left...
I've recently acquired 6 Harlequins, and if any readers will pardon the length of this post, on the grounds that some detail may catch someone in mid-snore to cry 'Aha - it's obviously...', here's the background.
The computer was down (darn Murphy and his silly laws anyway) and, while I'd looked into various micro rasboras, I hadn't at that point specifically investigated Harlequins which could, as far as I knew, well have been an entirely different kettle of fish in all, rather than some, respects, although I was aware that they'd long been regarded as a moderately hardy aquarium fish.
Appalling, I know, but somehow, leading a deprived life as I certainly have, I've never had rasboras before - by any name, so to speak, and darned if I can sort out what fish is in which group anymore...
In any event, as the Walstad (El Natural 15 gallon, soil under gravel, approximately 80-90 individual plants installed counting separate stems of 4-leaf clover and various bits of stem plants apart from crypts and some larger cuttings - actually tried a rough count while recovering from the effort, no wonder it takes so nit-picking long to do even a small tank) for which they were intended was entirely empty even of snails, I felt it was worth the risk to quarantine them not in the bare, sterile q tank but in the soft, acidic-type water provided in their eventual home, as they'd likely share similar requirements to the ones I'd been researching at least to that degree and could reasonably be expected to do much better there.
They all looked like Halloween cut-outs at first, very black-and-pale (gradually colouring up rather nicely now) had ragged fins (appeared to be torn, not rotted, mostly grown back now and proudly carried high, although re-torn a bit in displaying) with one showing a white speck near the end of the tail which could at that point have been either ich or fungus; I added a combo of Melafix and Pimafix and, assuming they were likely med-sensitive, (luckily, as they apparently are,) a half-dose of Quick Cure - but on the holiday Monday, ( :shout: damn you, Murphy!!!) it became evident that the spread of the white blight (NOT speckles, but a lumpy mass, almost small-eggy looking, very strange) was rapidly worsening, in a long, narrow oval shape moving in toward the body, while the tail also abruptly split overnight up the centre right to the body. (Poor thing was twitching that tail like crazy - it must have been dreadful.)
I added a large dose (within safe levels) of Sulfathiazole (wide-range - gets a number of bacterial, fungal and protozoan pests) as well as the other medications, having upped the Pimafix (had another bottle) and dropping the Melafix (as I was running out).
The tail split healed completely within 2 or 3 days, while the large white cluster dropped off one night, complete with some of the affected tail area, leaving a creamy-white surround and some white speckling in other tail areas.
All this has since cleared - but what the heck was it?
Got the computer use back and can't find anything quite like that Googling fish diseases - although luckily for me saw multiple Harlequin references on this very interesting forum, which is why I'm here rambling hysterically.
I'd like to stop the Quick Cure as there's been no sign of identifiable ich, and as the Sulfathiazole evidently does cover what seems likely to have been another type of protozoan infestation and I'm chewing nails (pulled out of the rafters while climbing the walls, actually) over potential toxicity from unnecessary meds, but can't be certain that the combination of the three meds wasn't what resulted in the current improvement - and that this horror isn't still potentially active in the tank.
Was it killed, or merely hatched and burrowing into the gravel?
Any ideas, gentle reader, bearing in mind that I'm flat broke (sob) and can't load up on more meds right now, and would rather not haul the fish out into the q tank for a high salt, PolyGuard or other potentially plant-damaging treatment, as they're doing well in SOME respects...???
I do have some other meds around, and might be able to match/approximate somebody's suggestions, if any are made, although I really need to get snails in there, as of weeks ago.
I've had these fish, I guess, (she who never sleeps having accuracy issues) roughly a couple of weeks now, and their behavior seems so far to have been unusual as compared to various other fish I have in that they initially didn't investigate anything in their new home (species behaviour? No checking out plants except for breeding and very specific feeding, [eggs presumed to sometimes be produced due to a little snacking - sigh - by certain fish who shall remain unnamed] but sometimes complete with male tail over female under leaves as seen on several occasions with different fish, 3, incidentally, being larger than the other 3, the smaller also being coppery while the others are increasingly showing a lovely purple tint under daylight and have a powder blue or green stripe, depending on angle of lighting) but, as generally described, do loosely school in the most open area, despite the blast from the Aquaclear not yet adequately baffled by plant growth along the back wall.
But one had arrived with the 1st ray of its dorsal torn loose and standing alone, with suspicious black tipping, and that and one other of the small ones had a single partially black ray (these black portions quite solid and looking almost like a poop permanently hanging, at first glance) on their ventrals; not only a tipping but a black edging is beginning to appear on the INSIDE next-to-body portion of various fins of even the others. (Note: checked again following the orgy later described, [adult warning] only the black tipping and nasty black danglies remain - the black on inside fin-edges therefore potentially mood related. ???)
Their colouration continues to alter and improve pretty much on a daily basis - but I can't recall any mention of black being normally present on a Harley's finnage - and the thin black elongated blobbys on the ventrals clearly CANNOT be normal.
For all I know, the more general blackening of the fins could be due to anything from mood to - in part - a response to chemical toxicity from the Quick Cure which, alternatively, may be saving their lives. ??? Any expert suggestions??? Please!!!???
In some ways, the concerns regarding potentially improper medication rival those creating the need.
For about the first ten days a small water change of 1 - 1 & 1/2 gallons was conducted daily, without, however, recalculating/topping-up meds added at different times throughout the day, with one larger change (did re-add 2 drops of the usual 7 of Quick-cure there - treat for 3 days, leave one, usually: off-treatment day but didn't want to chance a set-back having removed 6 gallons total, together with proportionate degree of built-up medication - after the due addition of Sulfathiazole, with the Pimafix a while later) of three gallons twice, with a break between after refilling, so as not to create too-drastic sudden change, and have just now altered to water-changing every three days when the Sulfathiazole's added; due to the lightly rooted and fairly dense planting, the bottom can only be properly cleaned in the one soilless area mostly covered by a fair-sized piece of slate, used as a feeding/pouring area, and while the Harleys are certainly quick feeders, once down, food has to be (somehow) located and removed as they evidently don't employ the '30 second still edible rule' for food hitting the ground. (Neither do I - I can totally empathize.
Once snails are in, and the pygmy cats I hope to be able to add at the end of the month, such concerns will dissipate as rapidly as will such stray foodstuff.)
The first few days, as the larger 3 Harleys were so thin, I supplied 4 small feeds daily, then 3 feeds a day for a week or so, and have just gone to two slightly larger: generally, crushed Nutrafin Betta flakes, frozen bloodworms (I have a Central Mud Minnow who eats nothing but these or starves himself, pouting, the rest being divided on a rotating basis among different tanks, but the Harley's have been getting them daily - if this is a bad thing for one of two feedings, somebody tell me please!!! they'll likely go on rotation with the others soon anyway, and I won't tell them who said so) Hikari Micro Wafers, and sometimes a messy, evil combination of daphnia and krill which can only be fed in tanks getting cleaned and having filters rinsed that day.
Haven't tried them yet on the weekly pea-feed, although the Bettas aren't the only ones to relish these...
Thought I'd wait for cleaning reinforcements as tiny bits of pea are virtually impossible to find among greenery until the mold spreads to the foliage. :-(
One of the larger Harley's (not the one with the previous tail issues) has twice (assuming this is the same one - once, soon after arrival, and again some days later, and could be entirely invisible whenever I'm not watching, for all I know) gone pale to the point where his(?) black marking disappeared and his(?) innards were actually visible.
On the second occasion, his(?) colour returned the instant I fed, and haven't seen this for a while, but the odd time he does look pale and a bit blurry/almost coated, temporarily.
Respiration seems to be OK, never any flicking or obvious indication of parasites - and again I'm wondering if this could potentially be related to chemical toxicity...???
Any thoughts/experience/suggestions?
I've lowered the heat from 80F to 78F despite the sickness issue, in case this is too stressful/oxygen-depleting - different sites give different info as to preferred temps for Harleys, although one said they breed at 80F. (Mine bred - and sometimes apparently just went through the motions - both at 80F and at 78F, evidently to provide party snacks...)
At what temps do the experienced here find their Harlequins to be happiest and healthiest?
How stressful are higher but normally moderate temps of 80F or of the 84-86F often used short-term in ich treatments?
Some sites give an impression of potential stress even at 80F - what do your Harleys think about that?
JUST WENT TO CHECK ON THE HARLEY'S - ONE OF THE SMALLER ONES NOW APPEARS TO BE PALE AND CONFUSED, not sure if she (I think a she?) actually flicked or just ran into a plant, as she keeps swimming in the area in front of the filter (mid-tank, hard to avoid, though they don't try or seem to be bothered; otherwise I'd rig a baffle/change filters rather than wait for plants to bush out) and gets blown a bit.
Her little mouth keeps opening and closing, although she's not attempting to surface to gulp air or anything drastic and I fear ( :shout: Murphy!!!) I've jinxed things by just now thinking various nasty parasite/diseases didn't seem likely...???
They had a water change last night and I was just going to change over to every three days to allow the sulfathiazole to work fully, since we now seem to have the feeding thing pretty much down to a 'no morsel shall fall' science, but tempted to do one now, to reduce meds in case??? Or to produce more resistant black danglies...?
What with all the worrying, I know darn well I'm paranoid.
Yes, I've been frequently getting up and turning around to check on them at night - they're right behind the head of my bed; yes, if I slept I'd probably think more clearly and panic less; yes, the nightmarish curse has come home to roost - I'm turning into my Mother. :shout:
Just checked again, and they're having another orgy: saw two different pairs periodically in the shrubbery doing the belly-rub-on-leaf-male-tail-curling-over/under-female (depending on whether on top or under the leaves) thing.
Pretty sure one was the pale one, as far as I could tell - between the leaves and the male and all the giggling going on between the pairs, hard to identify individuals, but she did swim toward the front from that direction, still pale.
According to info on all sites seen so far, they likely wouldn't be breeding in bad/toxic water conditions???
Could some simply become pale from too much partying in the bushes?
What the heck is with the black on their fins, which (if not merely some colouration issue appearing together with the yellow/red originally virtually absent) I'd assume was early fin-rot the meds should have cured, and especially with the solid-looking thick black on the ventral rays?
Sorry about the hysterics, but it's horrible that these poor fish have weird diseases I haven't even been able to identify, and that, while one problem's cleared, (knocks wood - knuckles thunk on head - dog barks and runs to door) another seems to be worsening, potentially due to meds I'm administering - and all the while they become otherwise more beautiful...
One mystery may be explained: I'd delayed the evening feed due to the party then going on, and just went in to do so.
Couldn't figure out what one of the little ones was carrying in its mouth until it spat it out, again grabbed and repositioned it: a tiny, slender but relatively long green 'twig' evidently from some cardamine Lyrata.
It appeared to be trying to eat it :blink:
I assumed that feeding would cause the little one to abandon the twig, doing so ASAP, giving about a half-dozen mini wafers at a time, several times, watching the wafers as well as those consuming them to make sure none were blown off course to fall and rot, uneaten, realizing later that only 5 Harleys were present up front, with one agitated small fish off to one side behaving rather as one would expect of a fish swallowing a relatively stiff and undigestible twig. :shout:
Would a fish actually swallow something that could puncture its stomach?
Is life so bad in my tank that suicide is preferable?
Considering how often my cooking could pass as burnt offerings, if I retroactively dedicate these dinners as a sacrifice to Neptune, will he relent and cease this torture of my Harleys?
Actually, she's looking better now, although I can see I'll be up all night again, checking...
The Hikari wafers are stated to contain spirulina - do the Harlequins require a high level of greens?
I surely can't be underfeeding - the small ones, who hog the bulk of food, are rounded and I've actually been stuffing them silly, :blush: although the number of feedings has admittedly halved - and I thought their diet as given should be fairly balanced...
Would experienced Harlequin people recommend a higher level of vegetable feeding?
Who will unmask the mystery of Harlequin?
Anybody still awake out there?
Certainly not me...
 
:hi: to the forum Syphoniera and congratulations on winning the Largest Post Award for 2008. :- I'm sure after some members process your questions you will get some good responses. Either that or you will have to wait to hear from Deep Thought.
 
:hi: to the forum Syphoniera and congratulations on winning the Largest Post Award for 2008. :- I'm sure after some members process your questions you will get some good responses. Either that or you will have to wait to hear from Deep Thought.

Hi & thanks, Gazoo,
your tact is impressive.
'Concise', as you may have noticed, is NOT my middle name... :no:
And the combination of panic, lack of sleep, and writing between bits of fish-fussing all day and night hardly contributes to brevity. :/
Among numerous other things, I'd really, really like to know pretty-please what experienced Harlequin people have found to be the temp. their Harley's are happiest at.
Considering, in example, all the bobunk that's been written/spread about Bettas, I'd like to know what the Harlequins actually prefer, and what they've shown their long-term personal people by being healthier, happier and longer lived under various circumstance, as I've seen variance in recommendations on different sites.
Short form of most urgent ongoing problem; suspicious solid-looking black spreading on individual ventral fin rays of now 3 smallest Harleys, black tipping on dorsals and elsewhere - the latter could conceivably be colouration except I've never heard mention of black on Harlequin fins. ???
If anyone knows this to be normal, please let me know.
I'm used to feeling stupid - panic is worse.
Also, black-tipped 1st dorsal ray on one little one is still completely separated from the rest of the fin, may be just because it constantly moves around like Groucho Marx's eyebrows :hey: and doesn't stay together long enough to heal???
Anybody figure it'll heal from the bottom up, instead?
I figure it's been about two weeks!!! (unless I have my fish-dates confused, having bought others recently from the same place - including the second of 2 apparently stunted (but adorable) Bettas (1st one growing a bit finally, both having had finrot/black edging on tattered fins/missing rays, clearing up nicely, knock wood.
The stuff on the Harleys looks similar but has not cleared up - so another question would be: is it different, or are they simply not as well able to cope as the Bettas?)
Figure maybe just keep them on the Sulphathiazole for now, unless anyone has brilliant suggestions???
Fins are healing more and more rapidly now, when re-shredded a bit in displaying - and the black doesn't seem to be actually rotting anything on the fish so far (knocks on head, gets up to answer door, nobody there...) but it's spreading!!!
And there's bits of equally weird black stuff on some of the plants as well, now. Same thing? Fungus? It appears to be eating previously healthy leaves from the outside in...
If I had a camera, expert ID would probably be easier...
I've Googled 'fin rot' all over the universe, probably just missing the right search terms, as inclusion of variations on 'black fin' brings predictably irrelevant responses...
Colour is progressively emerging and intensifying on all 6; a little one scared the heck out of me last night by attempting to/possibly successfully swallowing a small 'twig' from an aquatic plant, and acting very agitated all night but all Harleys appear lively today - livelier every day, actually, revving their tiny engines round the tank.
(Panic state subsiding nicely as well, but still pretty darn concerned.)
Have periodically seen some stringy white/transparent poop, attached to normal-looking poop; under circs. 1st assumption currently stands as possible internal infection, (please not nematodes/worms) hopefully to be cleared by current meds and general improvement in condition - also possible ??? effect of major dietary/environmental change/feeding (as one of several small meals) daily bloodworms (the latter of which I've previously done only with a minnow who has simply refused to eat anything else. ??? Any input? Anyone? Are these the familiar symptoms of......? To be easily cured by ......? Because Harlequins specifically need...???)
Was trying to build up the 3 bigger ones, which do now (finally) have Harley shapes, but mostly turned the little ones, arriving in better condition and far zippier about food-grabbing, into tiny beachballs w/tails.
I've put them on bloodworm rotation as with the other tanks, just in case, and I bet the eager little eaters will eat the (smushed) Jungle wormer, if it seems necessary - I'm almost out of Gel Tec so will undoubtedly discover I need that immediately: may have triggered Murphy by putting this stuff away in the hope of never needing wormer again, although what I was able to get turned out to be useless for previous problems anyway... :-(
I have developed (as may have been painfully obvious) some tendency toward paranoia, based on previous experience with previously unknown-to-me, imported diseases/internal parasites therefore almost impossible to identify.
Nobody knows the troubles I've seen, nobody knows but SeaChem...
(Buy stock.)
But somebody out there will know exactly what this is, what to do, whether it's even a major concern considering the continual improvement in their condition.
I can only hope they let me know.
As tactfully as you, Gazoo. :look:
 
'Concise', as you may have noticed, is NOT my middle name... :no:
I can very much appreciate your concern with your fish, but to be perfectly honest, I'm having a difficult time reading your post because there is so much information to take in at one time. You have defiantly found a good resource for tropical fish keepers but I would ask for you read this post to help consolidate your questions to get the most helpful responses.

Start with just a couple of questions and take it from there. :drinks:
 
Hi, Gazoo,

Thanks and sorry.
I think I'm particularly panicky over these because I've never had rasboras/Harlequins before, and am unsure what general behaviour, speed and type of movement is normal for them.
You don't realize how much you depend on minute cues/variations in monitoring your fish until you acquire an unfamiliar type - and these were not exactly in great condition on arrival, although looking much better now, so, (to be metaphorically appropriate,) I'm at sea as regards their norm.

1. You'll freak, but no params. I swore decades ago (back in the Dark Ages) I'd never get fish which would drop if their PH or anything else varied and so required such testing and, frankly, the less expensive test strips/kits are notoriously inaccurate anyway - besides, all my money goes on fish food and meds. (We need a violin smiley.)
There are times it would be pretty darn nice to to know exactly what was going on, but the first action when any doubt or concern arises is to conduct a water change anyway, and if distress was being shown by a tank of my fish, I'd never wait to run tests first in any event.
Maybe later, from the dump pail...
Worse, I can just see myself obsessively testing every frigging tank in the house several times a day, the same way I trot round checking heaters and whatnot, sometimes crawling back out of bed to do so 'just to make sure everyone's OK'.

2. Most of the symptoms seem to have cleared and the description would be a lengthy process, involving multiple questions again.
The biggest concern remaining is A) is it normal for Harleys to develop any black on their fins? They've had a lot of colour gradually develop, and there is a bit of black on various fins, but it's only the 3 which are smaller and more coppery which have a single rather solid-looking blackened ray on their ventral fin becoming more pronounced - looks rather like a dangling poop within the fin at first glance.
When they do have a lengthy, dangling poop, that's right about where it touches as they scoot around the tank.
Doesn't look normal, and some equally odd black stuff has appeared on one of the plants on which they've conducted most of their breeding behaviour, (5:30 AM update) although as of today (Sunday) it's become dry and hard: the section of Water Wisteria, about 1/3 of a good-sized once-healthy plant, which had had the bulk of this abruptly died, although the remainder (with all traces found on leaves removed again tonight) appears to be OK so far, knock wood. Is the treatment then finally working on this and if so, on the fish as well?
I'm wondering if this is likely to be intestinal fungal rather than fin rot per se?
And could the small, rounded Harleys be small because stunted due to this?

3. For about the first 2 weeks, they mostly had water changes daily of about 1 to 1 & 1/2 gallon(s), with one change of 3 gallons conducted twice and refilled between for a total of 6 gallons that day, as I felt breaking it up a bit was likely less stressful and less drastic a change for the fish, considering all the meds.
I have just altered to a 3-day water-change cycle (will likely take about 3 gallons per, depending,)

4. to match with the Sulfathiazole (supposed to safely cure many bacterial, fungal and protozoan infestations without impairing nitrification) treatment (every three days) I'm continuing, as I was (apart from 2 drops of additional Quick Cure on 'off 'days) not adjusting (due to concerns regarding the accumulation) the various built-up meds (1/2 dose Quick Cure 3 days on, 1 off; full dose Pimafix; large dose [within recommended safe levels] of 10 measures of Sulfathiazole in 15 gallon, the latter as of right now [Sat.] the only med being administered) merely adding at different times throughout the day the various medications being used until now.
At this point, I thought it might be best to focus on and not dilute the Sulphathiazole, as the daily reduction in amount might be why the black fin rot/fungus ? hasn't cleared.
I don't like to change meds in midstream, but if there's no improvement within the week, it'll evidently require something else - any ideas?
I had to switch from using tap water to RO a couple of years ago when something altered in the city water supply which I strongly suspect may have caused something built up in the (old) house pipes to leach.
In any event, from one day to the next, the buckets of treated tap water I'd kept for the upstairs tanks produced virtually immediate distress in two tanks I'd just done, (luckily only a 10 and 5 gal - but I was in such a frigging hurry at the time I didn't notice any problems in the first tank until I'd done the second - 2 fish later died and it took days for the others to normalize - not risking that again) necessitating an immediate RO water change, (luckily had jugs of RO standing for a tank downstairs) which relieved the problems.
Now, of course, any attempt to use tap water in RO tanks would also produce a drastic change in PH, GH, and everything including the price of contaminated rice in China, and the LFS I go to has yet to get in Equilibrium... May I say 'Aaarrrggghhh!"?
But the city tap water often stinks anyway now and you couldn't pay me to put it in with my fish anymore...
So, I don't usually add water conditioner, but do have Prime and Ultimate, and did add Ultimate to water prior to adding new fish to reduce stress, and a bit of Prime in first week, but not recently.

5. No tank mates, not even snails yet, just these 6 Harlequins I preferred to quarantine in the Walstad.

6. They're in a 15 gallon Walstad, planted except for a fair-sized piece of slate in area having no soil beneath, over which I add water and feed, as it's the only area where I can siphon off the bottom without sucking up plants, and luckily the HOB seems to keep and blow debris (sometimes they miss a bloodworm or two, and itty bitty Harlequin poop collects there!!!) nicely within that area.

7. These are, of course, the new fish in town and the only ones added to this tank; I'd been hoping to add pygmy cats at the end of the month, but this begins to look less likely...
In any event, I feel such a short tank may not be suitable for the Harleys, so (unless their behaviours change as the plants continue to grow in) they'll probably wind up either in the 35 with the tetras or possibly the 25, depending, (neither one a Walstad, which is unfortunate) and I'll have to find something else perhaps more of a happy-to-poke-around-plants type for that 15, if I can get this cleared up.

I would very much like to know, pretty please, what temps actual long-term Harley keepers have found theirs to be happiest/healthiest at - I've seen some variation, with high 70's-80F declared to be outright dangerous on one site, only to be recommended at another and stated to be breeding temps at another...
The temp's settled out at 77F and it's staying there until I can get some reliable info; had increased to 80F for treatment, then finally got Internet access back, started wading through different sites and dropped it a bit and can't, of course, keep altering as it's very bad for them.

Argghhh! Had opened small window to show supplied 'Please Read Before Posting', (May I say 'Ooops'?) followed the directions visible, just noticed there was more further down... If I have to redo this, cutting, pasting and rearranging, please let me know - I'm darned if I'm up to it right now.

Ornaments - Slate, bought at LFS, smallish, mostly granite rocks, 80-90 plants, many of which are small cuttings. Nothing likely to affect PH: do have added calcium supply in soil under gravel, which would take a long time to increase GH by any fraction, if ever, will be low since haven't been able to get Equilibrium or even flipping Flourish. (Is one more 'aaarrrggghhh!' acceptable?) Haven't yet added cuttlebone for snails not yet in.

New Walstad, running for only a few weeks - the method relies on plant absorption of ammonia to a far greater extent than it does on nitrifying bacteria, regarded as competition for plant growth.
I'll run it as a Walstad later, when the plant mass increases further - but prior to freaking, consider that this is certainly much, much, much better than the bare, uncycled and uncycleable q tank which would anyway need daily water changes and be far less healthy and more stressful in all respects..

Filtration - an Aquaclear Mini, stuffed with filter wool. Emits a surprising blast, although the Harleys don't seem fazed.

I'm in Canada.

No camera, no handy, illustrative photographs, sigh.

I don't know if this is actually any shorter, but thank-you, thank-you, thank-you, to Gazoo and anyone else who might offer help and I hope this is at least a little more coherent.
If not, let me know, please, and I'll do the cut and paste thing and try again.
That'll teach me not to read instructions in their entirety before starting...
 
there's way too much stuff there for me to even contemplate reading any of it besides the title. You want to know something about harlequin rasboras, ok ask a simple short question and I will endevour to answer it :)
 
there's way too much stuff there for me to even contemplate reading any of it besides the title. You want to know something about harlequin rasboras, ok ask a simple short question and I will endevour to answer it :)

Sorry,
I'll try this again, just the most essential bits.

If one short question can be answered, I'd very much like to know what temps people's long-term Harley's have shown themselves to be happiest and healthiest at, as I've seen wild variation in recommendation on different sites.

If one concern can be adressed:

The 3 smaller of 6 Harlequin rasboras I recently acquired have solid-looking black stuff in appearance coating the leading edge of their ventral fins, approximately where any long, dangly poops touch.
Odd-looking, similar black stuff (fungus?) has also appeared on the plants where they most often conduct breeding behaviour, although that which I removed last night had hardened and may, I hope, have been killed by Sulfathiazole and/or other previous treatment given over the past two weeks.
A large section of a previously healthy Water Wisteria most affected by this died abruptly and was also removed last night: I'd consider that mycotoxins therefore appear to be a potential concern, although the fish actually continue to look better daily and a number of other problems present on arrival have reduced or disappeared.
I don't recall any indication on any site of Harleys developing black coloration on their fins: does this occur?
Somewhat less ominous-looking black has increased on various other fins, which I personally find reminiscent of fin rot, although the Harley's have all been progressively colouring up, having arrived in not very good condition, and with very torn fins now healing rapidly when re-torn in displaying, apart from a black-tipped, coated-appearing leading dorsal ray entirely separated and independent in movement on one fish since its arrival.
I'm wondering if an internal fungal infection is a probability, or if any suggestions can be made regarding this, and would certainly appreciate any help offered.
Thanks, and I hope this is better???
 
Yep much easier to follow, thanks :)

Harlequin rasboras (Rasbora espei or R. heteromorpha) are happy at temperatures around 24C. They will live in water with temps between 18 & 30C but those are the limits. 24-26C is the best.
Fish kept in cooler water (22-24C) don’t age as quickly and usually live longer compared to fish kept at higher temperatures (28-30C).

The black edging to the ventral fins could be natural colouration or cell damage (bruising). A pic would help identify it but if the fish are swimming around fine and not dieing then the black is probably nothing to worry about.
Many fish also change colour at night or when breeding, they usually go darker. If you are looking at the fish first thing in the morning they might still be showing some of their night colouration.
Fungus is white and fluffy, not black, so that is unlikely to be a cause.

The black fluffy stuff on the plants sounds like black beard or brush algae. It is an alga that grows to about 5 or 6mm high and is really hard to get off the plant leaves. It releases spores into the water that infect new plants. It will also grow over rocks, wood and other ornaments in the tank. A pic would help confirm the identity of this.
 
Yep much easier to follow, thanks :)

Harlequin rasboras (Rasbora espei or R. heteromorpha) are happy at temperatures around 24C. They will live in water with temps between 18 & 30C but those are the limits. 24-26C is the best.
Fish kept in cooler water (22-24C) don’t age as quickly and usually live longer compared to fish kept at higher temperatures (28-30C).

The black edging to the ventral fins could be natural colouration or cell damage (bruising). A pic would help identify it but if the fish are swimming around fine and not dieing then the black is probably nothing to worry about.
Many fish also change colour at night or when breeding, they usually go darker. If you are looking at the fish first thing in the morning they might still be showing some of their night colouration.
Fungus is white and fluffy, not black, so that is unlikely to be a cause.

The black fluffy stuff on the plants sounds like black beard or brush algae. It is an alga that grows to about 5 or 6mm high and is really hard to get off the plant leaves. It releases spores into the water that infect new plants. It will also grow over rocks, wood and other ornaments in the tank. A pic would help confirm the identity of this.


Thanks so very, very much for the reply, Colin.
You have no idea how much it's appreciated.
The temp. thing was a really big concern - it's confusing when so much contradictory information is given in various places.

I'll bet your dead-on about the lighter black on the Harley's dorsals being bruising; what remained of their fins when they arrived was in shreds and they do sometimes go for the others' fin when displaying.
I had no idea fish fins bruised black, but it seems an evident possibility once you pointed it out.

Luckily this black thing on the plants isn't BBA - I battled that over ? must have been about 6 or 8 months maybe a couple of years back and every time I thought I had it beat - and I was so naively sure a few times - it just snickered and flared up again.
Finally, I wound up transferring the fish into big plastic storage containers and sterilizing everything else in that tank, since I'd already lost nearly all of my plants to it.
Frankly, I'd rather have this and cyanobacteria both to deal with in the same tank.
And I might just rather wrestle alligators at the same time.
Believe me, if it'd been BBA you'd have heard me instantly identify it from wherever you are - and I'm in Canada.

Unfortunately, the most toxic forms of fungus often are black - they were just not previously common, and are certainly not expected, by me at any rate, to appear on fish/aquatic plants.

This stuff wasn't fluffy, but initially looked rather like (gross-out warning) smears of blackish snot which went very burnt-black when it dried hard as it did just recently, which I'm hoping is because the Sulfathiazole has finally killed it.
Something certainly killed a large section of healthy Water Wisteria within a few days of black becoming apparent on he stem as well as on the leaves - the plant went brown and soggy right from the roots on one offshoot, although the less affected ones where none of the black was on the stem appear fine, and I picked the leaves with blackening off the healthy stems when I removed the dead section of plant, which is how I discovered that the blackened stuff had hardened.
Because it looked so similar to the narrow blackened areas on the Harley's fins where the poop contacted them and appeared only on the leaves where they'd been most often rubbing their bellies in breeding behaviours, my concern was that this was some sort of intestinal fungal infection, transferred to the fins where their poop touched and even to the plants.

I'd never seen black fin rot before before, but I've seen it now on two Bettas I bought at the same place that I purchased the Harleys - and in the worst parts it looks blackened as if charred - and similar to the black strips of concern on the Harley's fins, although in that case without eating away at them.
However, the black is entirely gone from one Crowntail Betta which, when first seen, had some rays eaten to stubs with black blobs on top and is improving on another bought, I guess, about a week ago, but which still has blackened beading on the most tattered areas of fin.

Both of the Bettas also had ich - and I've never seen that size or degree of spotting before - and while I'd have thought the enormous phenomenally fast-expanding lumpy white oval on one Harley's tail couldn't possibly be ich, also in part because a creamy area remained on the surrounding fin for several days after the oval's dropping off, complete with the chunk of caudal fin it'd been most thickly on, I noticed a creamy area also, the other day, on the fin and tail of the poor little tyke bought most recently as well, where the (much smaller and therefore different looking?) spots had just cleared.
(It took a while, but it's soaking through now. Brain no good, which is why I'm so grateful for the use of yours.)

But the Harley's don't seem to be responding as fast to the similar treatment, although Bettas do heal very rapidly and I've just realized also it may be more a question of an unfair comparison on my part, in expecting the same rate of improvement in other fish, as well as assuming that fish separately kept but almost certainly sharing the same (possibly store-wide circulating) water source, and possibly sold from the same large-scale distributor as well, would not have loosely similar diseases, at least in some respects, and even if affecting somewhat different areas.

I'm just putting this together now, and being a bit slow to do so, no doubt, as 20-30 years ago, we didn't encounter these weird algaes or diseases; ich was pretty much defined in my mind as itchy, because at first sign it'd be treated and I don't recall ever seeing white spots of this size and profusion, never mind black fin rot.

I'm not certain by any means that the Harley's are suffering from the same thing as were the Bettas, but it's something to consider.
Any thoughts?
 
If other fishes in the shop have similar black areas/ patches on their bodies/ fins it could be the shop or wholesaler is exposing the fishes to lots of chemicals. It may be they aren’t using a dechlorinator, or they are overdosing with medications, or they have really bad water quality (lots of ammonia, nitrite or nitrate). This might explain why the Bettas at the shop had something similar to the Harlequins. The black patching/ bruising being caused by chemical poisoning.

I have never heard of black fungus, but in general fungus grows on dead or dieing tissue. If it is a black fungus growing on your plants then perhaps the plants are unwell to start with.

Cyanobacter bacteria (blue green algae) can be blue, green, brown, red or black. It has the same constancy as snot and spreads extremely rapidly over everything in the tank. It wipes off easily and sheets of it often float around the tank after it has lifted. It smells musty. It is often caused by excess nutrients, low oxygen levels and old lights. Cyanobacter will dry out and look black when removed from the water.
 
Hi, Colin, and thanks.

Brilliant suggestion about possible chemicals/water conditions being involved because, even apart from direct toxic effects, this could further lower immune systems already affected by stress.

If so, I'm thinking more likely distributor - these problems weren't present before at that privately owned shop and people are always working on the tanks there; the filthy Betta-water syndrome isn't evident either, and I'd previously bought there two healthy Super Deltas who probably were, originally, the Half-Moons they were sold as, apart from healthy tetras, Otos, etc.
It seems to be just this past year that healthy fish aren't available there anymore, and, if I can keep out of the Betta section when picking up supplies, I'll likely be buying fish from local home-sellers/breeders in future, as various new/redone tanks become ready. :hyper:

And I've been having concerns about possible toxicity of meds I've been adding, even at the half-dose, having lately cut back to Sulfathiazone as the only current med.

There are numerous different types of fungus, some of which feed on dead tissue - others on living.
There are actually a lot of very toxic black fungi causing health issues in various situations but as many of these are relatively recent in appearance, it's not surprising if those who've not previously dealt with them, or happened to have read up at any point on mycotoxins, are not familiar with them.
Unfortunately, new nasties are now appearing all the time.
BBA, in illustrative example, was virtually unknown a couple of decades ago...

BGA, surviving for billions of years because endlessly adaptive, is considered, scientifically speaking, responsible for life as we know it, as well as a number of swear words which might otherwise never have been invented.

I suppose the black stuff on the plants could conceivably be mutant BGA, although I've had an ongoing problem with that after bringing it in on some duckweed which literally dripped the stuff (just a bit, collecting on and around the duckweed and maybe a drip or two now and then) when strong light touched it.
Luckily, it never 'took' in most tanks; just wiped it off and tossed the duckweed when it got tiresome.
But I did have it in one old 10 gal. (I think one of my Mother's garage sale finds,) not a problem at the time, especially once I'd chucked the rest of the duckweed, but lodging in the loosened edges of the sealant, which wasn't yet bad enough to redo by someone as messy with silicone as am I.

When I tore down the tank in the course of a bit of occupant shuffling, I noticed that it was impossible to get in underneath to clean out the BGA nestled between the sealant edges and the glass and should really have soaked it overnight in bleach solution or some such thing, although didn't want to risk further damage to the silicone and hadn't really had a problem with it, so...
But of course the low nitrate, low current environment of a Betta tank provides the perfect niche for BGA to predominate.

(This apart from temporary problems here and there with BGA in a couple of other tanks due to plant melts.)

So I've already had to specifically clean BGA off Wisteria, even sucked up part of the top layer of gravel the odd time to get it under control in that tank.
It's growing inside the box filter in that little 10 gal., as it's sucked up every time I wipe the virtually invisible film off the glass; if I wasn't soon upgrading that Betta to a 15 and converting - if cleanable - that tank to a Walstad, I suppose I could run a second, equally non-disruptive filter and trade off to clean them of this so it's not being so heavily pumped back into the water-filter-water-filter in endless cycle, but as it stands, I have plenty of ongoing experience with BGA.
(And I'd a thousand times rather have that than BBA, so not so comparatively bad, although mini-cycles are sometimes a concern with intensive cleaning...)

It's never looked or behaved anything like this stuff over ? maybe a year and a half, 2 years? of dealing with it, albeit mostly here and there - and it's never killed Wisteria at all, never mind in this manner.
BGA - leaving the general toxicity for the moment - tends to kill plants when it's allowed to smother them, as with delicate, small-leaved, difficult-to-wipe plants, rather than sturdy Water Wisteria already grown virtually to the top of the tank.
Having separate bits appear on a few leaves and spread in a disconnected fashion onto sections of stem - which doesn't appear to be the manner in which it typically propagates - wouldn't be expected to even impede the plant involved.
If I'd had a camera, you'd have seen what I mean: I'm afraid my explanations aren't very good...
Plus this black stuff hardened INSIDE the tank (I do hope killed by treatment also - please-please-please - killing the problem on the Harley's) and wasn't removed until after that section abruptly turned brown and died, as I'd hoped to salvage - and wasn't expecting to lose within days - the vibrantly healthy, green and rather gracefully grown plant: two sections formed an arch with a third, wrap-around, low, curving offshoot coming up which I was directing with rock placement toward the middle of the back, and with lower leaves previously removed from both tall stems resulting in a sort of really bushy palm effect - entirely by accident, too.
I still have half an arch and the smaller offshoot, but the effect, obviously, is gone.
Of course, it never would have lasted anyway. Sniff.

As stated, my concern was with the apparent similarity and connection between the blackened stuff on the fish and the plants only in areas which had been frequently and directly physically contacted by the areas of the fish demonstrating the blackening, in breeding activity.
Having a plant die is annoying - fish sickness/death is a heart-break.

And, having never had rasboras before, and with these arriving in somewhat less than perfect condition, I'm unfamiliar with the behavioural/movement cues which could indicate normalcy or discomfort in my Harley's, which fosters insecurity as regards decision-making.

I really, really, really appreciate the time, effort and brainwork you've been kind enough to donate - if only I was more accurate at description, or, better yet, had a camera...
 
If the black stuff in the tank becomes hard then it is unlikely to be Cyanobacter. When that dies it starts to break up and fall apart. It does dry out and become hard (but brittle) if it is out of water, but in water it stays soft and mushy.
You might be right about it being a black fungus on the plants. However, I would have assumed it would fall apart and disintegrate after it was killed, not harden up. Unless it is something new to science and you have a new nasty in your tank :) I would contact a university biology department and see if they can identify it from some samples. Also your local government agriculture or environmental agency might have a lab for testing weird things.

Do you have any links to black fungus, you have me interested now :)
 
Hi, colin,
actually read up a lot on fungus/mycotoxins in general, mostly from library years back, when living in a sick house with black fungus, and various articles come across since, although I've hopefully still got some good books/info around somewhere and a few years back a bit of frantic compiling when some slimy black fungus showed up in water jugs filled from my parents (contaminated and had to be replaced) RO unit, so I've nothing assembled right now and have been trying to search for specifically fish disease, turning up nothing useful.
Just a fast Google and some excerpts from a few general but illustrative examples:

http://www.iaqm.com/indoor_mold.html

'Stachybotrys chartarum is a fungus that has become notorious as a mycotoxin producer that can cause animal and human mycotoxicosis. Indeed, over the past 15 years in North America, evidence has accumulated implicating this fungus as a serious problem in homes and buildings and one of the causes of the "sick building syndrome." In 1993-1994, there was an unusual outbreak of pulmonary hemorrhage in infants in Cleveland, Ohio, where researchers found S. chartarum growing in the homes of the sick infants. This incident increased the awareness of home/building molds and brought this fungus to the immediate attention of the medical community. In recent years there has been a cascade of reports about toxic molds in the national media. The New York Times Magazine, August 12, 2001, ran a front page story on toxic mold. Newspaper articles such as "Fungus in 'Sick' Building" (New York Times, May 5, 1996) or "Mold in schools forces removal of Forks kids" (Fargo Forum, June 1997) are eye-catching news items. The nationally syndicated comic strip Rex Morgan ran a series on Stachybotrys, and television news shows have run entire programs on Stachybotrys contamination of homes. The fungus has resulted in multimillion dollar litigations and caused serious problems for homeowners and building managers who must deal with the human issues and remediation. ...'

'... The possibility exists that there are multiple modes of action for S. chartarum to affect human health. Mycotoxicosis is clearly important but the immunosuppressant compounds may also have a role, although it is not clearly understood. The bioactive compounds may lead to lung dysfunction through various mechanisms (44, 46). In addition, hemolytic compounds may be important, especially in infants (57). The presence of a hemolysin may lead medical investigators to view this fungus as a potential pathogen and not strictly as a mycotoxin producer. Also, the fungus could be an allergen (41). Plus, two or more of these modes may act together as suggested by Jarvis et al. (33). ...'

http://www.toxicmoldlab.com/resources/mold-information/

'... There are thousands of known species of molds, which include opportunistic pathogens, exclusive saprotrophs, aquatic species and thermophiles. Like all fungi, molds derive energy not through photosynthesis but from the organic matter on which they live. Typically, molds secrete hydrolytic enzymes from predominantly the hyphal tips. These enzymes degrade complex biopolymers such as starch, cellulose and lignin into simpler substances which can enter the hyphae. In this way, molds play a major role in causing decomposition of organic material, enabling the recycling of nutrients throughout ecosystems. Many molds also secrete mycotoxins which, together with hydrolytic enzymes, inhibit the growth of competing microorganisms. ...'

http://www.answers.com/topic/fungus

'... Britannica Concise Encyclopedia: fungus

'...Any of about 80,000 known species of organisms belonging to the kingdom Fungi, including yeasts, rusts, smuts, molds, mushrooms, and mildews. Though formerly classified as plants, fungi lack chlorophyll and the organized plant structures of stems, roots, and leaves. The thallus, or body, of a typical fungus consists of a mycelium through which cytoplasm flows. The mycelium generally reproduces by forming spores, either directly or in special fruiting bodies that make up the visible part of a fungus. The soil provides an ideal habitat for many species, although fungi can also live in the air and water and on plants and animals. Fungi are found in all regions of the world that have sufficient moisture to enable them to grow. Lacking chlorophyll, fungi are unable to carry out photosynthesis and must obtain nutrients by secreting enzymes onto the surface on which they are growing. These enzymes digest organic matter, forming solutions of nutrients that can be absorbed through the mycelium. Decomposition of organic matter by fungi results in the release of carbon, oxygen, nitrogen, and phosphorus into the soil or the atmosphere. Essential to many food and industrial processes, fungi are used in the production of enzymes, organic acids, vitamins, and antibiotics. Fungi can also destroy crops, cause diseases in humans (e.g., candidiasis and ringworm), and ruin clothing and food with mildew and rot. Parasitic fungi invade living organisms, often causing disease and death (see parasitism), whereas other fungi establish symbiotic relationships with algae (forming lichens), plants (forming mycorrhizae; see mycorrhiza), and certain insects. ...'

And, somewhat more pertinant to an aquatic forum

http://www.aquafeed.com/read-article.php?id=2346§ionid=4

Mycotoxins, an overlooked threat in shrimp farming!

'... Mycotoxins are secondary metabolites produced by fungi, commonly referred as molds. They are produced by these organisms when they grow on agricultural products before or after harvest or during transportation or storage. Given the trend and the economical need to replace expensive animal-derived proteins, such as fish meal, with less expensive plant proteins sources, the impact of mycotoxin contamination in aquaculture feeds will have the tendency to increase due to the higher susceptibility for mycotoxin contamination in ingredients of plant origin. ...'

Unfortunately, I haven't yet come across the right search terms to come up with a possibility for the problem in that tank, and I was hoping some Harlequin expert might go 'Aha, that's just... so just do this...and there you go.'
These guys are apparently often raised in large commercial Asian farms, and, on a world-wide basis, a lot of common, local diseases/organisms are of course exported to areas where they're exotic/unfamiliar and, alas, unidentified.
But there are many possibilities as ID and source.

But this is something of which people should be aware, and I'm happy to find someone interested.
 

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