High Ph?

kng2bishop

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I have a fully cycled freshwater tank with ammonia, nitrite and nitrates all in check. My PH however is not.

My tap water has ph of 6.4 and my tank is sitting at 7.9. I have fish that prefer a 6ish PH!!

I do have new aquarium gravel and glass tank. I do add less than 1 tbsp/5 gal of rock salt. My water changes seem to bring the PH down 0.1 or so each time.

I hear of low PH all the time, but high PH? What causes this?
 
Something I just read recently was to test your tap water after it has sat out for say 24 hrs and see if it's still 6.4. The thread I was reading was talking about CO2 that is in the lines and it drives the pH down so when you measure right out of the tap it will be one thing but after sitting for a while the CO2 will dissipate and the pH will be what it really is.

In your case it may be 6.4 out of the tap but after you let it sit it may test at 7.9.

Mine changes too but only slightly. Out of the tap it is 7.0 but after it sits it is 7.2 Maybe someone who knows more will chime in too.
 
Yes, you might have CO2 in your tap water, but a change that large I doubt that's the only thing. The culprit could be your gravel (or sand), rocks, decorations, stuff like that.

Why do you add salt to a freshwater fish tank? It's not needed unless you are treating for some sort of disease.
 
Something I just read recently was to test your tap water after it has sat out for say 24 hrs and see if it's still 6.4. The thread I was reading was talking about CO2 that is in the lines and it drives the pH down so when you measure right out of the tap it will be one thing but after sitting for a while the CO2 will dissipate and the pH will be what it really is.

In your case it may be 6.4 out of the tap but after you let it sit it may test at 7.9.

Mine changes too but only slightly. Out of the tap it is 7.0 but after it sits it is 7.2 Maybe someone who knows more will chime in too.

That is interesting. I might just have to try that :)
 
If you want to bring it down, try bogwood or peat. That worked for me brilliantly. If it's a 7.9 check any rocks and that, some rocks like lava rock for example can really boost your pH hence why it's used in cichlid tanks etc.
If you have natural rocks you can test wether it will have a high pH by putting vinegar on it, if it fizzes it will change your pH to over 7.0

Good luck!

James.
 
Yes, you might have CO2 in your tap water, but a change that large I doubt that's the only thing. The culprit could be your gravel (or sand), rocks, decorations, stuff like that.


A full pH unit or more is rather common in my area. My tap water comes out 7.0-7.2 but will settle at 8.2-8.4 after it has gassed out. It is largely a function of each individual water company.
 
Tap water is always going to change the PH unless your local table is the proper ph for your fish. Tetras and barbs prefer 6.4-7.5 while molleys and guppeys like 8.0+ sometimes. Best bet is to determine what your fish like then compromise on a proper ph solution such as Proper Ph 7.0 for barbs.
 
Best bet is to determine what your fish like then compromise on a proper ph solution such as Proper Ph 7.0 for barbs.

I'd even argue that the best compromise is that unless you plan on breeding or keeping wild caught fish, the vast majority of commercially-bred fish will adapt and thrive in a wide range of pH. My research and experience has demonstrated that fish can adapt very quickly in pH; to the extent that I'd say that pH shock is almost nonexistant. It is changes in hardness that are far more stressful; and that most cases of pH shock, were probably in fact hardness shock.

It is only anecdote, but I can tell you that in that same water of pH 8.2-8.4, I have had many species breed, even though the pH is well outside their "preferred" range. Lemon tetras, tiger barbs, and bronze cory catfish have all bred in those waters, for example. And, all of them and many more species have led very long healthy lives in those waters. I wasn't even looking to breed them, they were happy enough in their life to breed on their own.

Whereas, if you use chemicals like Proper pH 7.0 to try to adjust water conditions, that can be more stressful than a wrong but stable pH. Those chemicals work by breaking down the KH of the water (changes in hardness) and then re-buffering at a different pH. Water is a tricky beast, though, and often in the short-term it looks like you've adjusted pH, but in the long term, it will drift and move again. Almost always, the hardness is not built back up correctly or in a stable manner. And, again, it is changes in hardness that is more stressful for fish. Also, most of these pH adjusters have large amounts of phosphates which can cause explosive algae blooms.

So, in conclusion, I would strongly advise avoiding the chemicals, and just stick to commercially-bred fish. They will adopt to your local water conditions, and without chemicals, the local water will typically be very stable. If you chose to go the wild-caught or breeding route, I would start with RO of distilled water as a blank canvass, and then use the various mineral mixes to build up your water to the target conditions. Again, still no chemicals, and yet achieving the desired water stats. Most of us aren't interested in this though, and our tap waters are good enough that most fish from your LFS will be able to live long, healthy lives in the water our local municipalities provide.
 
Yes, you might have CO2 in your tap water, but a change that large I doubt that's the only thing. The culprit could be your gravel (or sand), rocks, decorations, stuff like that.


A full pH unit or more is rather common in my area. My tap water comes out 7.0-7.2 but will settle at 8.2-8.4 after it has gassed out. It is largely a function of each individual water company.


I think your on to something. I tested the water right out of the tap without letting it "gas out". I bet the water settles higher like my aquarium. Thanks.
 

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