Hi Everyone!

scaredpassenger

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just wanted to pop in and say hi

have asked some questions in the DIY section with regards to a Juwel rio light setup im fixing up, also here now to ask some questions with regards to my own tank and future tank

currently have a 3 1/2 ft Aqualantis tank, which I'm considering selling and going for a new custom style tall cube tank due to space limitations in my home

I want to go for a 600mm wide, by 600mm deep and 750-800mm high tank, i know it would be cheaper to go for a straight up 24" cube but I wont be increasing my tank size by much if I go that route, i have already got the majority of the equipment for my new tank including an external filter aqua pro 2, picked it up for free but does need new valves and all pipeing replaced, so i need to find those bits, thinking of running solid pipes to the tank with multiple exits

need to find a tank builder in essex really for some quotes!

i will want to move the majority of my stock over to the new tank once its set up but have always struggled with plants in the tank, the only plant ive managed to keep succesfully has been java fern on bog wood, i will search the site for growing tips and lighting info!

im thinking of going bare bottom with just planters for the plants to sit in to aid with detritus settlement on the substrate etc, any threads showing bare bottom set ups with plants???

I thaink thats enough for now!

thanks

Tony
 
hi

the footprint of the tank is more important for stocking a tank . with a tank 2x2 800 high youre really gaining nothing over a 2ft cube . as even tho it will have a bigger volume the footprint is still the same .
 
Agree with mark. Unfortunately for people with limited space, height doesn't really gain you much in the stocking area and carries a few other odd things to think about. Obviously the surface area doesn't increase, so gas exchange can't increase, limiting fish stock (only surface area can increase stocking capacity, aeration can't help it.) Another practical aspect seldom thought about prior is that being able to work with your hand in the substrate is a huge help in a tank and depth and size work together to quickly make it hard on you. I always suggest doing a mock-up with a stick (possibly people helping hold it etc.) while you pretend you are trying to reach things in the make-believe tank with sticks or whatever laid out to simulate the 3D space. See how the tank edge at your armpit stops your hand and fingers from being able to get to various places.)

And on another topic, the filter tubes/piping, I also suggest some things not always thought about: there's an odd advantage to flexible tubes coming up behind and over the back edge, hidden by a background, in that the whole system can be shut down, with the fish and plants still in and the tubes can be disassembled and cleaned out. With fixed get-ups, a similar cleaning often requires a complete tear-down. On really big systems with wide diameter pipes, this isn't much of an issue as buildup would take forever to bother the big pumps involved but as you get down closer to average hobbyist sizes, the equipment is not so robust and does need more regular cleaning to keep good flow. I'm not saying you should not carry out your plans, just giving you all possible odd things to think about so that you go into your plan with your eyes as open as possible.

Greater skill with plants can be learned. I do not have a green thumb but after several years of hard work am getting better, lol. Light is a skill set. Carbon is a skill set. Plant nutrients are a skill set and Algae is a skill set requiring some knowledge from the prior three sets. Just plan on it being ongoing learning. I don't know what to say about not planning a substrate except it may be harder for people to give help as that's pretty uncommon I think.

Good luck, sounds like you have some fun activities ahead of you and I always like to think of the planning and choosing and figuring out as part of the hobby and something one can enjoy if one slows down and lets it be that way, after all that's what it's all about in the end.

~~waterdrop~~
 
Great advice there.
I have a tank which is 2ft tall. The manufacturer inreased the height as an upgrade. The width length was what i needed anyway.
Filled, there is a lot of water resistance making any fine maintenance tricky. I dont have live plants so im ok but maintenance is easier during water changes when water has been removed.
You also need to take account of the total height of the tank and stand as you will more than likely need to stand on something.
My gravel syphon is like a torpedo as i have gravel and i dont want to reach into the water.
 
thanks for the replys guys, wont be adding any more to the stock list, considering the depth of the tank and with the width restrictions what lighting do you think would be best on this tank?

the stand will be made by myself and i would prefer to enclose any lighting on the top of the tank with a self built lid also, so height of the tank will be fine, i have long arms and a special set of steps that i used on my previous tall tank (now sold) so the reach isnt a problem
 
these light units are pretty good . i use them on my tank . the power lead is very short , but the wires for the tube fittings are extremely long , so you can have the ballast away from the water and run the wires in through the back of the hood. the connections are fully waterproof too and they sit on little "feet" on the covergalss of the tank .

http://www.warehouse-aquatics.co.uk/aquarium-lighting/controllers/t8-control-units-c-347_604_358.html?p=shop

i still dont quite understand why you want to make the tank so deep? as previously said this extra volume isnt what would be considered "usable" volume. it will just mean that you will need more light to penetrate to the bottom , and it will be more costly to heat . personally if it was me i would go for the cheaper option of the 2x2x2 cube and use the money saved on thing that will benefit your fish more like possibly upgraded filtration etc.
 

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