Help With A New Sump

[Matthew5664]

Well getting my new sump tank today and been racking my brian for ideas for it. In my current set-up the tank return is in the middle of the sump area and so will enter the middle of the new sump from there I wanted to go right then 180 back to the left to the other side and then to the pump. the new tank is 30x12x15.

Has anyone got any pics plans for this type??? Does anyone understand what I meen??

All help wanted every little helps! (tesco ripoff i know)

 

[SkiFletch]

I'll show you my plans for my 34x11x16 sump that I never built much later tonight when I get home (you'll almoast be awake by then) and that might give you some ideas . Have you considered altering your overflow plumbing instead of trying to use walls and dividers in the sump for plumbing?

 

[Matthew5664]

Bit tricky have a look here:

The ball valve is straight from a 90 the stright to a 90 then into the sump. it's all plumbed in now and to take it apart is a nightmare. plus it's all glued so I'll have to cut it out an buy new bit's for it witch i realy don't want to do.

And theres no-where for the ball valve to go!



Just came up with this on sketch-up

This is the kind thing: Return tube with LR second section with heater 3rd with skimmer and 4th with DSB MM Cup. ect ect return.

 

[Aquascaper]

I don't really understand why you have a ball valve on the sump feed anyway. The flow will be determined by the return pumps output back to the main tank, if the return pump is not fast enough then it will run slow and if it's too fast it will backup into the main tank, there's no need for you to adjust the flow to the sump, only the return.

It's always easier to flow the water from one end of the sump to the other rather than to start messing about diverting flow, recirculating, etc. and I can see no real benefit to doing it. If you can modify the plumbing it will be easier than modifying the sump design.

 

[Matthew5664]

shut off to make the matainance easy.

If i didn't have it i would have to shut the pump off wait for all the water to drain to the sump then feed or do the matianance , if fiddling with the sump I'd rather have it at the norm level then full!

 

[Aquascaper]

shut off to make the matainance easy.

If i didn't have it i would have to shut the pump off wait for all the water to drain to the sump then feed or do the matianance , if fiddling with the sump I'd rather have it at the norm level then full!

You will still need to shut the pump off anyway otherwise it will run the sump dry and overflow the tank, just seems more hassle with no benefit.
I'm not sure what maintenance you're planning but I can't think of anything that would require shutting off the sump system, not even feeding. If you're feeding and the food goes straight down the overflow then you should be using a feeding hoop to allow the food to sink off the surface. As long as the sumps running the water level in it will be 'normal' as well, plus you will prevent any upset in water parameters by shutting off the sump (pH, temperature, etc.). Once a sump is running it is meant to stay running, if you keep turning it on and off you will shorten the life of the return pump (as with any pump the more you turn it on and off the more potential damage can be done to the propellor and motor) as well as any associated problems with parameters.

JMO

 

[Matthew5664]

Aquascaper> didn't know that about the pumps.

Right so take out the ball valve and use a normal set-up sump.... got ya

I'll get some pic's up when done.

Thanks y'all

 

[Aquascaper]

Just sounds like it will make life easier if you have to move the plumbing anyway.

Ball valves are more commonly used on the return side to regulate the flow from a pump that is too powerful for the overflow to handle but this is not advisable as it puts strain on the return pump reducing its lifespan again. If that situation occurred the best thing to do is fit a 'T' piece and have a pipe running back into the sump with a valve on that, that way the flow going to the main tank is determined by modifying the flow back to the sump, not by restraining the pump.

 

[SkiFletch]

Yes, and let this be a lesson to you and all new DIY sump designers that designing "union" fittings into a rigid system allows you to easily remove components without totally re-plumbing the entire setup. I have a union designed near my overflow, sump inlet, pump, and top tank return. That way if I need to move things around below, I can change tubing between the unions and not mess with the overflow box

btw matt, who is that quote by in your sig?

 

[Matthew5664]

SkiFletch> It's from the film Empire Records; Lucas said it just after he blew all Jo's money in vagas.

As for the sump It may have to wait a little wile because I got a new rat today and he's not taken a liking to my old one so it's being used as a temp home for him. bless.

 

[SkiFletch]

Great movie, been a long time since I saw it

I'd post copies of my plans, but you seem to have a grasp of whats required in sump design and dont really look like you need them . The only two things I'd suggest is slightly taller bottom walls in your last bubble-wall (to bring the main compartment water level up), and if you could re-plumb it to have water flow in one direction that would be easier. Btw, what program did you use to design that, some version of CAD?

 

[Matthew5664]

SkiFletch > one of the best films for me along with Bio-dome and Half Baked.

The program is Sketch-up I'll get the link for the trile vertion if you save it to a cd then install from there onto your computer you can use it again and agin otherwize you can only have 270mins

Download it here

Right hows this

Got the intake with filter wool then 1st for heater dosing PO4 removal, 2nd skimmer, 3rd DSB,MM,CUP. baffles then return

 

[Aquascaper]

Matthew5664:

1) Ditch the filter wool in the intake chamber. Filter wool is for final stage filtration to remove very fine particles, it is not designed for first stage filtration and all it will end up doing is catching every litttle bit of food, etc. that comes from the main tank. This will decompose in the wool and cause constant Nitrate production. If you must use it put it in the final chamber, right at the end. This is not recommended though as it will prevent any pods, etc. getting to the main tank so IMO it should be removed completely.

2) You will need two more baffles on the partition between the 2nd chamber (Skimmer) and the 3rd chamber (DSB/MM/CUP) to prevent bubbles from escapng from the skimmer outflow into the 3rd chamber. This will also allow you to make the DSB without fear of water turbulance disturbing it as the outer two baffles (the new addittions) will be a lot higher than the slit you have atm. You could get away with just one extra baffle if it's placed in the 3rd chamber next to the slit to force the water flow vertically if needs must.

3) I know it's probably not quite to scale but you need to decrease the gap between the baffles to about 1cm or 2cm maximum so that the bubbles have more chance to hit the sides as the water flows through.

SkiFletch:

If you download the program I can give you the serial key to unlock it if you can't find one

 

[Matthew5664]

Aquascaper> would love that serial key I have the full vertion so could you PM it to me please.

Hows that?

 

[Aquascaper]

Remove the red edged baffles and bring the blue edged baffle closer to the slit. Then mirror that baffle on the other side of the split (in the 3rd chamber)

Basically you want to replicate the division between the 3rd and 4th chambers, no real need for the split baffle