Help! Why Is My Water Still Cloudy?

happyspinach

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Hello all,

I am inquiring how to remove the cloudiness in the water.

I have a 30g tank for almost a month now. I started up my tank with a proper filter, gravel, thermometer, plants. After 24 hours, I added 3 guppies to start the cycling and I feed them once a day. Since then, I have been doing a weekly 25% water change with dechlorined room temp. tap water. The gravel sucker didn't pick up much debris...so I am positive I didn't overfeed my fish.

About 2 weeks ago, I introduced new fishes - 2 platys and 3 rose tetras...I have my water tested every week, all the levels are fine.

The fishes are doing fine, no signs of sickness...but I do not like my milky tank.

I tried a few things:
1. I did not feed my fish 2 days in a role...at first I thought I overfeed them which causes cloudiness...which I proved not...didn't work.
2. I tried to add "Water Clear" into the water...it guaranteed will clear water within hours...which I see no improvement.
3. I tried to do a 50% water change...didn't work.

My water has been cloudy since day 1. I must be doing something wrong...but I don't know what it is. Could someone help...I would like to have a crystal clear tank!

Sincerely.
happyspinach

30g
3*guppy
2*platy
3*rose tetra
4*plants (rotalia)
1*biofilter
 
First off, welcome to the forum. :hi:

Most likely, what you are seeing is a combination of the water being cloudy from the substrate and lots of very tiny air bubbles from where you filled the tank to a bacteria bloom as the tank tries to cycle. You say your water levels are fine but I would be curious to know exactly what the ammonia and nitrite readings are. When you said you "had" it tested every week, I assume you mean by th LFS. You should always ask them for the exact numbers. Most of the employees in the fish stores look at a chart that shows a safe level for ammonia and nitrite when in fact the only safe level is zero. And ammonia becomes more toxic at higher pH levels so a reading of .5 for ammonia may not be terribly bad in a cycling tank where the pH is 6.2 but if the pH is 7.5, that same .5 reading of ammonia is terribly toxic.

You really need your own test kits. When you experience yor first real problem, you ay not be able to go somewhere and hae the water tested. You need to know the numbers right then. While cycling with fish, your goal is to keep ammonia and nitrite as close to zero as possible with partial water changes which usually need to be done at least every other day and sometimes as often as twce a day.

The cloudy water will have to run it's course. Once the tank finishes cycling, it will clear up. Don't add any more fish until you have test kits and your ammonia and nitrite levels are a zero every day for one full week without a water change.
 
change 25-50% of the water every day and i gurantee the water will clear up
i had the same problem when i finished cycling the the tank
but after changing about 50% of the water everyday it cleared up in 2-3days

and you really need to get your own testing kit dont get the dip sticks but instead get the liquid tests
those are much more accurate

API makes a great one for about $30 which tests everything from ph to water hardness
 
If it's green water, it probably won't for a while. When I had my problem 2 years ago on my 75 gallon tank, I changed 50% every day for 2 full weeks and it was just as bad at the end of that tie as it had ever been. That''s when I bought the UV Sterilizer and in 2 days it was clear and has been so ever since.
 
If its just like a white cloudy, i agree with some people in saying daily or evry other day no more than 25-30 percent water changes, gvie it time and care and it will claer up. :good: good luck
 
Milky look to the water - see tiny particles floating in the water column - sounds familiar to me... did the groundwork also and found that the best course of action for me (70gal) was to hoover the subtrate every other day, making sure I paid particular attention to the dead and dying parts of my heavily planted tank and 25% water change twice a week. The bloom was due to rotting vegetation and having just completed the cycling process (with fish sadly). Within a week and a half I had a crystal clear tank.

Stick with it and up your tank maintenance.

Good luck
 
I have the same problem as you, mine was really bad ive got a 65L tank with fake plants and about 8 fish that are going good, i did a 25% water change and put a little bit of conditioner in ( i was told by the guy at the fish store to add a bit every water change) and its cleared up alot its still a bit cloudy but a couple more water changes and it should clear up and hopefully stay clear.
 
Just FYI, this thread is almost 8 months old and I'm sure got resurrected with the "Similar Topics" at the bottom of the page.
 
Just FYI, this thread is almost 8 months old and I'm sure got resurrected with the "Similar Topics" at the bottom of the page.

Hi Friends-

my 3 gallon tank (Of ALMOST A YEAR)with one betta just turned cloudy after treating what looked like a fin tear or possibly finrot for a week with Mettafix just about daily water changes and keeping the charcoal bag out of my 2 sponge filter! It turned cloudy on the last day before I put back charcoal because betta's condition seems stable.

I do believe the tank was cycled when I got it and the new fish 8 months ago. I used a fake bacteria supplement. This is the first time I've had a cloudy tank here.

I will say that I've been fighting high ammonia (all other stats normal) a few days this week. I've yet to do tests today. I imagine this could be bacteria bloom.

In my pico filter, when doing water changes, I've always left one sponge (black one) filter in the pico hang on filter to maintain the bacteria level, while changing the white one monthly or every other month. I've also replaced the charcoal once or twice during that time.

I have a wonderful picotope 3 gallon glass tank with their filter and my heater which my little Betta-licious has been doing well in all these months. The only thing is, they don't supply GOOD CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS WITH THE REFILLS. I just want to know if I'm doing the right thing by changing the white sponge periodically and leaving the black one in. Any input please?

Thanks. -Wendy
 

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