Help! white spots!
- Thread starter Shoto^Guy
- Start date
Sorry, just to make sure - by that do you mean that you just treated the tank once? If so then you've been misled by the shopkeeper, you need to treat them every day until the white spots disappear - even if this takes weeks!
T
tribalsilver_shark
Guest
Hi thanks im new here but can i just add lil thing
please remember there are 2 diffrent types of ich
as a person sorry forgot who mentiond this it sounds like you do have ich for sure
ich white spot can be treated but is very very important to follow thru treatment as IT DOESNT GO it can come back within days weeks even months
ich (white spot ) i think is a kind of bacteria that lives in a tank attached it self to the host (fish )and then eats away causing slow death
there is also ich velvit coral and another sorry im not much help
here we go lil info on treating ich hope its good for you
Check your water quality!!!!!! 9 times out of 10, the fish can do fine with a few Ichthyophthirius in the water, but when they are stressed by anything, like questionable water quality, it makes it much easier for the little buggers to set up shop in your fish's skin.
2. Do a 50% water change, just to be safe.
3. Add 3 tsp of aquarium salt per gallon to your tank. This reduces the osmotic stress on the fish caused by the invading organisms, and may adversely affect the organism as well.
4. Pick up an ich medication of your choice at the local fish mart. Most of the ones that are sold are more or less effective. My personal favorite is a malachite green/formaldehyde combination sold under the brand name "Quick Cure". ("RidIch" has the same ingredients.) Note: Most people recommend halving the dose of Malachite-containing medications if you are treating small catfish, any scaleless catfish, or tetras.
5. Disregard the instructions on the bottle!!!!! Use the DOSE written on the bottle, but treat like this: Treat every 3 to 4 days for 4 treatments, changing 50% of the water before every treatment. Do NOT treat once or twice, like the directions will tell you! You need to treat over 12 to 16 days in order to get all the little guys when they are vulnerable. (See life cycle diagram for explanation)
(Excuse the digression here, but this is my chance to vent my frustration at the aquarium trade -- I think they purposefully give poor medicating information so that the consumer will treat only partially, and knock down the parasite burden only enough to temporarily cure the fish! Because not all the organisms are dead, they will bounce back in a few weeks or months, and the poor consumer has to run out and but more of the ich medication! What a scam!!)
Other things which may help:
6. Raise the temperature in the tank above 85 degrees for 5-7 days. The tomites do very poorly at these temperatures, and it also speeds up the life cycle so more organisms are vulnerable to killing at any time.
7. You can use a diatomaceous earth filter to decrease the number of infective tomites.
8. Move fish to a clean tank after 7 days. This reduces reinfection by tomites left behind after the initial treatments.
please remember there are 2 diffrent types of ich
as a person sorry forgot who mentiond this it sounds like you do have ich for sure
ich white spot can be treated but is very very important to follow thru treatment as IT DOESNT GO it can come back within days weeks even months
ich (white spot ) i think is a kind of bacteria that lives in a tank attached it self to the host (fish )and then eats away causing slow death
there is also ich velvit coral and another sorry im not much help
here we go lil info on treating ich hope its good for you
Check your water quality!!!!!! 9 times out of 10, the fish can do fine with a few Ichthyophthirius in the water, but when they are stressed by anything, like questionable water quality, it makes it much easier for the little buggers to set up shop in your fish's skin.
2. Do a 50% water change, just to be safe.
3. Add 3 tsp of aquarium salt per gallon to your tank. This reduces the osmotic stress on the fish caused by the invading organisms, and may adversely affect the organism as well.
4. Pick up an ich medication of your choice at the local fish mart. Most of the ones that are sold are more or less effective. My personal favorite is a malachite green/formaldehyde combination sold under the brand name "Quick Cure". ("RidIch" has the same ingredients.) Note: Most people recommend halving the dose of Malachite-containing medications if you are treating small catfish, any scaleless catfish, or tetras.
5. Disregard the instructions on the bottle!!!!! Use the DOSE written on the bottle, but treat like this: Treat every 3 to 4 days for 4 treatments, changing 50% of the water before every treatment. Do NOT treat once or twice, like the directions will tell you! You need to treat over 12 to 16 days in order to get all the little guys when they are vulnerable. (See life cycle diagram for explanation)
(Excuse the digression here, but this is my chance to vent my frustration at the aquarium trade -- I think they purposefully give poor medicating information so that the consumer will treat only partially, and knock down the parasite burden only enough to temporarily cure the fish! Because not all the organisms are dead, they will bounce back in a few weeks or months, and the poor consumer has to run out and but more of the ich medication! What a scam!!)
Other things which may help:
6. Raise the temperature in the tank above 85 degrees for 5-7 days. The tomites do very poorly at these temperatures, and it also speeds up the life cycle so more organisms are vulnerable to killing at any time.
7. You can use a diatomaceous earth filter to decrease the number of infective tomites.
8. Move fish to a clean tank after 7 days. This reduces reinfection by tomites left behind after the initial treatments.
T
tribalsilver_shark
Guest
pls note ich can come back after weeks months of being in tank it doesnt allways completly clear up so treat until you think its completly safe andplatypus said:
good luck i hope things work out for you
Ich", or "White spot disease", is a primarily cutaneous infection of freshwater fish caused by the protozoal parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis.
Ich most often causes the appearance of small white spots over the body and fins of fish. However, it is important to note that ich can present with many different appearances, and that other things besides ich can cause small white spots on the body.
Hi Assuluto,
Is it sort of cottony? If so it could be a fungus. Have a look at this article from this website, it might help.
Some ich treatments (such as protozin) also treat for fungus, so if you check the medication you're using and it works for fungus too, make sure you carry on with the treatment. Also did you give the aquarium salt a go?
Is it sort of cottony? If so it could be a fungus. Have a look at this article from this website, it might help.
Some ich treatments (such as protozin) also treat for fungus, so if you check the medication you're using and it works for fungus too, make sure you carry on with the treatment. Also did you give the aquarium salt a go?
white spot is a disease that is always in the tank and as soon as your fish get a little bit down they are prone to pick it up the minute you see even one white spot on a single fish you should treat the water straight away at half the recomended dose you should always have some form of fungal treatment nearby all the time
Just change my water 3 days ago...and add in some kill bacteria stuffs....oh man 5 of my cherry barbs and 4 of my neons died...haiz...all becoz they already ahve teh white spots....the rest of the fishes are quite ok...espcially the leopard danios and harlequins which seems damn healty...haiz...the rest of my neons and cheryr barbs have more or less some white spots on them...dun think theyc an survive long...urghplatypus said:Sorry mate
Are you still treating the tank with the ridall *every day*? Also, have you done a water change recently? If not then please give it a go, it should help.
oh 28 huh>? thanksplatypus said:You're not alone - luckily you don't have to be as there is this conversion calculator in the tropical chit chat forum! I think the 2nd link has a temperature converter.
PS 82ºF= 28ºC
btw i hope the white spots will be gone soon..its really tormenting my neons and cherry barbs very badly...urgh Similar threads
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