well I'll get some fin ich medication BUT theres carbon in my filter! what do I do? And none of my other fish have fin ich. The community tank has 4 pink convict cichlids,1 mollie,4 neon tetras,3 glolight tetras, 2 serpae tetras, 2 chinese algae eaters, 1 zebra danio, 2 scissortail rasbosas, and 1 sick female betta. I only have the ph chemical test kit and it reads 7.2
ReMz or someone of that experience level will hopefully return to sort out details, but has provided typically brilliant advice.
But as you're evidently not yet familiar with ich, I thought I'd provide some info which might help explain ReMz's recommendations.
The carbon will have to be removed prior to treatment, unless very elderly indeed, as it'll take out the medication.
Ich may not be showing on the other fish yet, but the little critters are almost certainly in the tank.
And they can only be destroyed while in the free-swimming stage, prior to attachment, so far and away best off getting rid of them before they do attach to all your fish, and produce yet more little horrors.
http
/www.fishlore.com/aquariummagazine/n...ish-disease.htm
'Ick or ich is one of the most common diseases known in the fish keeping hobby. This is a protozoan parasite that has a three stage life cycle. When they first attach themselves to the fish they are not visible to the naked eye. They become visible after feeding on the body fluids of the fish for a few days and thereafter appear as tiny white spots on the fish. Each white spot is an individual parasite. The spots appear on the tail, fins and body of the fish. This stage of the cycle is the symptom stage and termed trophont.
'During the course of a few days the parasites mature and on completion they break free from the fish's skin layer, falling to the bottom of the aquarium. The parasites can then attach themselves onto any of the items within the aquarium. At this stage the parasites start reproducing. This part of the cycle is called tomont. In twenty four hours each cyst may have up to 500 new parasites. Hundreds of free swimming parasites are let into the water once the cyst breaks open. The time in which it takes at this stage varies, high temperatures increase maturation while colder temperatures will cause a longer latency. The parasites then look for fish to attach themselves onto and it is at this time that treatment should be applied. This stage is known as the "free swimming stage" and it is termed theront. ...'
'... Once the disease is found a partial water change should be made. The most common, perhaps the best and certainly our recommendation for treatment is raising the temperature. Raise the water temperature to 82-86 °F and maintain it for 14-20 days or until there is no sign of the disease. Usually it has been known to clear in about two weeks. This treatment is especially recommended if scale-less fish like plecos , catfish, loaches etc, are present in the aquarium as most medication and salt are dangerous to them and they can be more harmed by it than the disease. Increase partial water changes during the time when the temperature is high as the warmer water has less oxygen. Gravel vacuuming too should be done more often at this time as it will clean out large numbers of cysts that have fallen to the bottom or are dying. ...'
But Quick Cure, as pointed out, is fast, effective and safe for most fish, although catfish, tetras and bettas, (as well as any shrimp in the tank,) tend to be sensitive to meds and should have a lower dose, (generally about half, although ReMz will advise,) for a more extended period.
That, of course, includes your algae eaters, in fact most of your fish, as rasboras are apparently similar to tetras in that regard.
I know we, apparently, can't get Quick Cure in Canada any more, so I hope you'll be able to.
So you see, if you don't treat the tank, they may all suffer from this.
. It's not coloration it's like little puny spheres. Could it be fin itch? Shes in a 50 Gal. community tank with a variety of other fish. Should I move her to the 10 Gal. Hospital tank with a mollie that had fin rot(and still does a little bit)? I dunno what to do! oh, also whats wierd about my female betta is that she loves nets 
! When I put a net in the tank the other fish run away but she swims right into the net and stays there swimming around in the net! I think its crazy. Well help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED 
i guess I can do that! so I should put the betta back in the community tank, take the chinese algae eaters out, and treat it right? wait but as i said in my last post "and my community tank has tetras in it and the quICK cure medication said to put less medication for a tetra tank, but i have both tetras and other fish....how will i do that?" Could That be answered please? I'll try to get the nitrate, nitrite,ammonia etc. chemical tests soon. OH and here are the pictures of the supposedly "pink convict cichlids" 
