HELP - Is my Molly fish ok? :(

[redtailshark34]

If I’m being completely honest my dad helped me set up my tank. We used 50% tap water and 50% of his filtered water that he uses for his pond (I’m thinking this was probably a huge mistake but I assumed my dad knew what he was doing!).
He added some Aqua start to the water and then we got it up to temperature and obviously attached the filter.
My dad advised I could add fish almost straight away due to the water being treated but in the future should I wait a few days?
In regards to adding ammonia I think this may have been in the Aqua start we used?

Sorry for the questions but what do you mean by nitrogen cycle?

It’s okay I’m happy to help
The nitrogen cycle is crucial for fish because in that process we build up beneficial bacteria in our filter media to protect our fish.
It starts with ammonia (which is produced by fish, decaying food, decaying plants, etc) and to add to to the tank you can either place fish food in the tank and wait for it to rot, use plants, or get pure ammonia and add it to the tank. Ammonia is deadly to fish which is why it should never be anything above 0.

Slowly over time (within a week or two depending on the water) that ammonia turns into nitrites which is deadly/harmful to fish at anything above 0ppm.

Nitrites (with time) become nitrates. This is a less toxic form of nitrates. Once nitrates show up and ammonia and nitrites are at 0 your tank is typically cycled.

Building this bacteria is very important for the fishes health and well-being. The Aqua that you added to the tank was beneficial bacteria that wouldn’t contain ammonia.

Before cycling it is important to add a could water dechlorinator like Seachem Prime and have a good test kit, API Master Freshwater is a good one.

The water from your dads pond probably wasn’t good to introduce the fish into, but it really depends on the water in the pond.

 

[redtailshark34]

You are currently doing a fish-in-cycle. This can be hard on fish but there is a chance they can survive.

It is crucial that you preform daily water changes of about 50-70 percent. It is also very important that you have a good test kit.

You can always return the fish (if possible) or give them away and do a fish less cycle.

 

[Essjay]

As the others have said, you need to be able to measure ammonia, and test for that and nitrite every day. Whenever either of them are above zero, you need to do a water change.
Ammonia burns the fish's gills so it is harder for them 'breathe'; nitrite does to fish what carbon monoxide does to us. This is why they should both be kept as near to zero as possible.

 

[Byron]

There is an explanation of cycling that you should definitely read, here is the link (it is on this forum, written by another member):

Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!

Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...

www.fishforums.net

 

[KayleighC97]

It’s okay I’m happy to help
The nitrogen cycle is crucial for fish because in that process we build up beneficial bacteria in our filter media to protect our fish.
It starts with ammonia (which is produced by fish, decaying food, decaying plants, etc) and to add to to the tank you can either place fish food in the tank and wait for it to rot, use plants, or get pure ammonia and add it to the tank. Ammonia is deadly to fish which is why it should never be anything above 0.

Slowly over time (within a week or two depending on the water) that ammonia turns into nitrites which is deadly/harmful to fish at anything above 0ppm.

Nitrites (with time) become nitrates. This is a less toxic form of nitrates. Once nitrates show up and ammonia and nitrites are at 0 your tank is typically cycled.

Building this bacteria is very important for the fishes health and well-being. The Aqua that you added to the tank was beneficial bacteria that wouldn’t contain ammonia.

Before cycling it is important to add a could water dechlorinator like Seachem Prime and have a good test kit, API Master Freshwater is a good one.

The water from your dads pond probably wasn’t good to introduce the fish into, but it really depends on the water in the pond.

Thank you so much for helping out, I can imagine it to be very frustrating as I’m so new to this haha. It’s good to learn though!

I’ll be purchasing some Seacham Prime and the test kit you advised for the future! I was hoping that doing frequent water changes would lower the Nitrate & Nitrite levels but I wish I’d done more research to begin with.

I’m just hoping my fish are going to be ok!

 

[KayleighC97]

You are currently doing a fish-in-cycle. This can be hard on fish but there is a chance they can survive.

It is crucial that you preform daily water changes of about 50-70 percent. It is also very important that you have a good test kit.

You can always return the fish (if possible) or give them away and do a fish less cycle.

Thank you! Should I just keep doing these daily 50-70% water changes until the test kit levels are perfect? (0 Nitrates&Nitrites?). I’m going to purchase a better test kit to use as the one I have isn’t the best.

 

[redtailshark34]

Thank you! Should I just keep doing these daily 50-70% water changes until the test kit levels are perfect? (0 Nitrates&Nitrites?). I’m going to purchase a better test kit to use as the one I have isn’t the best.

Yes, or at least until you see some nitrates in there. The added beneficial bacteria will really help speed up the cycle, your high pH will also make it go faster.

 

[KayleighC97]

I’ll give that a go! Thank you everyone for your help

 

[redtailshark34]

I’ll give that a go! Thank you everyone for your help

Keep us updated please

 

[KayleighC97]

Keep us updated please

I will!

 

[Essjay]

Should I just keep doing these daily 50-70% water changes until the test kit levels are perfect? (0 Nitrates&Nitrites?)

Water changes should be done until ammonia and nitrite stay ate zero.

Nitrate will not go to zero, especially if you have nitrate in your tap water (The UK allows up to 50 ppm in drinking water and some places have a tap water nitrate almost that high)