Help Diagnose My Platy And Swordtails

[alex1rob]

Hi guys,

Not so much of an emergency but I want to get my fish back to normal . I have a 60L tank with internal filter. Nitrite is at 0. Nitrate about 30ppm. PH normal. Hard water. Kept at about 25C. I have noticed they are flicking against the wood and leaves which I hear can be gill flukes? Also the male swordtail will be swimming normally and then dart about 5cm forward and slow down again. I noticed last night what I think is intestinal worms, the poo was connected by a very fine piece of translucent material that looked like a hollow tube approx .5mm thick. I cant find out what disease links all these symptoms, unless its two diseases. There are no white dots as far as I can tell.

On the plus side there was one fry in the tank today. Who I think was quite mature, about 9mm in length, has developed coloring on this fins an looks quite the swimmer.

thanks

 

[WILDER]

How many fish are in the tank.
Do you have ammonia reading.

Signs of gill flukes are
Red inflamed gills or pale gills with excess slime.
Opaque body with exces slime.
Swimming in a jerky movement.
Flicking and rubbing.
Laboured breathing, or gasping at the surface of the tank.
Sores on the body of the fish.
Spitting food out.
Erratic swimming.

Signs of internal parasites are.
Long stringy white poo or clear mucas poo.
Worm prutruding from the anus, camallanous worms will look bright red when they have been feeding on the host.
Sunken in belly.
Being thin or bloated.
Bent spines sometimes.

Need ammonia reading.

 

[alex1rob]

Sorry for not replying, I have not been able to get a test kit yet for ammonia, but the nitrite is still zero.

Things were looking good as the symptoms had decreased. The platy fry was doing well and grown a fair bit. The problems started last night when I installed a hydor ario unit. Shortly after the female swordtail started acting strangely and had clamped fins, about an hour later she was resting on the bottom of the tank. I changed 20% of the water with fresh treated water and hoped for the best. I awoke to find all but the male swordtail on the bottom. My partners sister noticed that the temperature of the tank was below the "green bit" on the thermometer which meant it was less than 20C, I later found out it was 17C. When installing the hydor ario I had unplugged the heater and forgot to plug it back in.... I normally keep the temp at 26C so that is quite a big drop over 18 hours. I tried to heat it back slowly and it is now back at 26C. The male and one female sword is acting OK, while the two platys and other female sword are very poorly. The male platy is the worst spending most of his time on the bottom of the tank barely breathing only balancing with his two pectoral fins. The other two are doing the same but sometimes swim about the rest of the tank only to return to the floor.

60L tetra tank with internal filter
5 fish, three swords and two platys few plants + one platy fry about 13MM
7-7.5PH
Very high KH and GH
Nitrate 30
Nitrite 0

I have a interpet liquisil general tonic but am afraid to use it. Oh as I have been typing this the platy has returned to the surface of the tank in the corner but still not moving. Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[WILDER]

Did the problem with the fish only start after the temp went down or before.
Them tonic meds are useless and a complete waste of money.
Once livebeares rest on the bottom of the tank bad news, had mine to that in the past and they never seem to make it.

They could have internal parasites any of the fish look thin.

 

[alex1rob]

Did the problem with the fish only start after the temp went down or before.
Them tonic meds are useless and a complete waste of money.
Once livebeares rest on the bottom of the tank bad news, had mine to that in the past and they never seem to make it.

They could have internal parasites any of the fish look thin.

Well the male swordtail was flicking but apart from that they seemed normal. They don't look thin really, the mickey mouse platy you can see her ribs but I think that is just her coloring. I have noticed stringy poo in the past. I have not fed them since yesterday should I?

I'm not expecting miracles, I just really hope I don't lose them all especially the fry. Could I add some salt to the tank?

 

[WILDER]

Are the fish still flicking.
I think I would worm them I worm all newly bought fish,.
Livebeares prone to camallanous worms.
http/www.thegreenmachineaquatics.com/mal...ol%20001/198936

http/www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/nematodes.shtml

 

[alex1rob]

Ok thanks for that, will have to order that. One more quick q, "aerate" during treatment, does that mean my internal filter will be no good? I am reluctant to turn on the hydor ario as it seemed to stress them in the first place. Also, my internal filter, the whole filter sponge is sealed and would be difficult to remove the activated carbon from within, but I guess it would be possible. I swear I never get a chance to enjoy my fish

Oh and the fish are still flicking but less frequently. Would it be a good idea to feed them? Two of the swords are pecking at some algae.

 

[WILDER]

If threre flicking alot there something wrong.
If you havent got an ammonia test kit take a sample of your water to the lfs and ask them to write the readings down for you.
Need to know all water stats to make sure it isn't bad water quality that making them flick and rub.

Signs of parasites can be exess slime coat on gills and body.

Never heard of a sealed filter how do you maintain the sponges when they get mucked up.
Black carbon only affective for 2 to 9 days but best to remove it from your filter as it removes meds from the tank.
It's a complete waste of money using carbon all the time as it only meant for removing chemicals from the water

Not sure if that med knocks water stats but don't think so as it would say in the instructions.

Whats your location.

I got one of them air pumps that light up mines blue. You can turn the flow up and down on them.