Help! Conflicting Info From Two Stores

Fuego

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Hello, everyone! Sorry this is so long for a first post, but I really need help. I'm including this much information so that all the questions you might have might be answered ahead of time! :)

My wife and I started our first new freshwater tank about 2 1/2 weeks ago. Most of our fish are doing well, but I'm worried about our nitrite levels from our API Freshwater master test kit.

Here's our setup and our fish:

- 15 gallon tank
- over the back powered filter (with new filters & old filter media from a mature tank)
- heater (the water has been at a pretty steady 78 degrees farenheit for 2 1/2 straight weeks)
- two thermometers to monitor water temperature
- air stone bubbler
- three live plants, inclduing one from a mature tank (the roots rotted on two other plants we'd bought, since removed from tank)

- 2 platys, a sunburst and a green tuxedo firetail
- 2 neon dwarf rainbows
- 5 glowlight tetras
- we HAD 2 metae corycats, no longer in tank (more on this in a sec)

We set up the tank with the filter and heater running, put Tetra AquaSafe Plus into the water to dechlorinate it, and let it run for a couple of days. The local pet store (in business for over 40 years, employees we spoke to say they've been working w/ fish for 20 years) sold us the two platys first and said put them in the tank for a day or two first to make absolutely sure that we hadn't done something horribly wrong. They were fine after two days so we went back to buy more fish.

Against my better instincts, I let the guy talk us into buying the 5 Glowlight Tetras, the 2 Neon Rainbows AND the 2 Metae Corycats. It seemed like a lot of fish to cycle a tank with, but the guy said that it wasn't too much. The first few days, everything was fine, then we started noticing the Corycats were lethargic and not swimming up and down the tank like before, and stopped moving along the bottom. They'd just sit there not moving, sometimes on the rocks and sometimes on a leaf of one of the plants. I went back to the store and had our water tested at the store (this was 5 days after the 9 fish were added in) and the same salesman said our ammonia was 1.0 ("a little high"), ph was 7.5, nitrites and nitrates were both 0. He said we needed some bacteria from a mature tank and gave me a big hunk of filter material from one of their tanks. (In addition, around this time, we got a plant from a friend's mature tank.) The guy also told me we didn't have to do any water changes for "at least a month or two".

By the way, we were feeding the fish twice a day at this point, with some food settling on the bottom, but not too much in my opinion. One of the reasons why the guy sold us the corycats was "first time tank owners tend to overfeed their fish".

The next day, one of the catfish died. I brought both back for store credit since the second one was increasingly lethargic, like the first one before it died. I don't know if the second corycat made it or not. (The store has since told us that the "batch" of fish they got that week may have been "weak" and it might not have been anything we did that caused the cats to weaken and/or die.)

This weekend, exactly 2 weeks after adding the 9 fish to the tank, we went into a second store to have our water tested. (We've grown increasingly concerned that the tank was overstocked for cycling, mainly because of a friend of ours who freaked out when she heard how much fish we had in the tank. We went into the store that she goes to.) They tested our water, and the first thing out of the guy's mouth was, "Are your fish dying?" We said no. They are just as healthy looking and active as they were the day they put them in the tank. The only difference we've noticed is that we would swear that the silver Glow Light Tetras have kind of a yellowish tint to them now which they didn't have at first.

He said that our Nitrite levels and one other thing (I thought he said Nitrate levels, my wife thought he said Ammonia levels) were both dangerously high. He panicked us, saying that he would do HOURLY 30% water changes and vacuum out our rocks for at least the next 5 hours AND highly recommended that we reduce the number of fish in our tank. He said we had way too many fish to cycle a tank, that he would have started with maybe 2 danios or 3 tetras or maybe just the two platys that we started with.

We purchased a water testing kit and a small bottle of FRITZ-Zyme Turbo Start Freshwater 700 (that needs to be refrigerated) to add bacteria to the tank. We raced home to start doing the water changes, panicked that we were killing our fish.

By the way, to outward appearance, the fish seem fine. They are all active, chase each other around the tank, eat healthily, and the Glow Light Tetras mostly school together around the tank.

I called the first store back, and specifically made sure that I spoke to someone different than the guy who sold us the fish. The lady I spoke with acted surprised when I told her what the guy at the second store told us. She said that we DON'T have too many fish to cycle the tank and we shouldn't have any problems. She seemed surprised when I said that there were two tested levels that were so high. She explained the tank cycling process to us again (I have had it explained several times and read about it in books and online). She said that a tank about two weeks into the cycle should have peaked on the ammonia levels and she would expect to see lower levels of ammonia; that the nitrite levels should probably be pretty high; and she wouldn't expect to see nitrate levels at all yet.

I tested our water again at that point (the first time, I'm embarrassed to admit, that I've tested it myself):

ph: 7.4
ammonia: .25
nitrite: 5.0, or higher, this was very purple
nitrate: around 0, possibly a smidge higher

I called the first store back, and she said everything is exactly where she would expect to see it in a tank that is two weeks into the cycle. She said everything is fine, that if the fish are active that is a good sign. Suggested I keep checking the water but recommended AGAINST doing any water changes -- the complete and total opposite of what the second store told us! Said that all that would help is the nitrate levels, and we don't have any nitrate yet.

The only thing the two stores agree on is that we were probably slightly overfeeding the fish. They both suggested we go back to feeding them once a day instead of twice, and only giving the fish a very small amount of food, a very small pinch, and MAYBE some more if the fish eat it quickly and none of the food settles to the bottom.

In the meantime, I've read on your forum and others, reread what our books have to say about cycling. Many people, it seems, do not like cycling a tank with fish. Too late for us to do it fishless, however! I've read some places saying that if either ammonia or nitrate are above .50 that we should be doing 30% water changes daily!!! And yet the first store and one of our books said that first ammonia and then nitrites in a naturally cycling tank would naturally reach 5.0 and then come down again, and not to worry.

Questions:

(1) Do we have too many fish in the tank, and should we insist on the first store taking back all of the fish they sold us except for maybe the two platys? (We are more emotionally attached to the platys than the other fish.)

(2) Should we be doing 30% water changes or not? And, if so, how often? Will it help the nitrite level (the only reading I'm overly concerned about right now)?

(3) Should we at the very least get a vacuum and clean out the rocks of any rotting food particles, assuming we were overfeeding the fish before?

(4) Should we just continue letting the tank cycle naturally, or should I add the FRITZ-Zyme Turbo Start Freshwater 700? Could that stuff harm the fish in a two-week-established tank? Or is it only intended to jump-start a fishless tank cycle?

(5) Should we add more plants? We have only two small plants and one medium-ish plant in the tank right now. We'd like more anyway, but will adding more right now hurt (or help) the tank's cycling?

(6) Is our filtration enough, or should we consider adding another in-the-tank / below-the-rocks type filter?
 
Yes!! to water changes first. I'm stuck cycling with fish as well and the #1 rule is water change, water change, water change. Sometimes 2 or 3 times a day. When you see nitrites or ammonia on your test. Water change!

Yes to sucking up the food. If you see any food coming up you m=are overfeeding.

Someone else is sure to jump on your other ?'s but heres a good place to start now.

Water change! :)
 
Did you put the hunk of used filter material into your filter as that should help a lot?



"ph: 7.4
ammonia: .25
nitrite: 5.0, or higher, this was very purple
nitrate: around 0, possibly a smidge higher"

Your nitrite is high but not terminal so long as it drops soon. Since your pH is 7.4 the ammonia is quite toxic so water changes are necessary unless you can get your pH down below 7.0 in which case the ammonium will not turn to ammonia so will not be anywhere near as toxic. Adding bogwood will get the pH down (I wouldn't bother with pH adjusters as they are too much trouble).

In short, IMHO, I would say you are not too far off having your tank settle down as the nitrates may be about to rise and your ammonia while high for the pH is ok (ish) depending on the type of fish (NIL is best).

In summary: Do nothing except water changes and keep monitoring the chemistry. Feed very little and often so you know all the food has been eaten. Don't mess with the filter so long as flow is ok. Wait two weeks and I think you'll be OK.

Edit addition: Dechlorinate your replacment water so you don't kill any of the filter bacteria; use Seachem Prime and dose for the whole tank (it's the most cost effective)
 
Thanks, Fish Fanny and ShinySideUp, for your responses!

My wife and I did a water change (maybe 30%) and tested the water with no real changes to any of my tested numbers. Also did some rock vacuuming. At the recommendation of the first pet store, I put in one dose of Maracyn (active ingredient Tetracycline hydrochloride, according to a couple websites) which I guess is an antibiotic and supposed to help stress levels of the fish.

We'll do at least one more water change and vacuuming of the rocks tomorrow.

ShinySideUp, yes, we put the filter from the mature tank in next to our filter, about a week ago. And about the bogwood you recommended, would it be readily available at most petstores? How big a piece should I get (our tank is 24" by 12" by 12" high)? Should I just rinse it off before placing it in the tank or do anything else with it first?

Any other advice anyone can give me will be a great help!

Thanks again everyone. I hope to be active on this board, and, maybe one day, knowledgeable enough that I can help others! B-)
 
One last thing. Just tested our tap water straight out of the tub faucet (without adding the Tetra AquaSafe Plus, however!). Our tap water came out:

pH: 7.5 or 7.6 -- which is slightly more alkaline than the tank water has been testing at
ammonia: .25 ppm -- which is EXACTLY what the tank water has been testing at
nitrite: between .25 and .50 ppm
nitrate: 0

Are these numbers normal for tap water??? Am I doing the tests right??? (I've read the directions about five times each, and got an A in a chemistry lab class not too long ago, so I'm not a science moron! LOL.)

(I live in Portland, OR which supposedly has a very natural water source, one of the cleanest in the U.S. from what I understand, by the way.)
 
I was going to say in a fish-in cycle, you generally do a massive water change when either the ammonia or nitrite read 0.25ppm or above, but since that's what you've got in your tap water I'd recommend changing when it's above that. You won't be able to get it down to 0 with your tap water, but you can get it as low as you can.

It is way too many fish for a fish-in cycle. You see, the idea is that if you change when the ammonia or nitrite gets to 0.25ppm or above. The more fish you have, the more rapidly it gets to this point, which means stressed fish and stressed you for having to do all these water changes all the time.
 
Questions:

(1) Do we have too many fish in the tank, and should we insist on the first store taking back all of the fish they sold us except for maybe the two platys? (We are more emotionally attached to the platys than the other fish.)

You have have far too many fish in the tank to cycle with. Keeping the platys is a sensible amount and I would certainly insist that the others are taken back by the shop.


(2) Should we be doing 30% water changes or not? And, if so, how often? Will it help the nitrite level (the only reading I'm overly concerned about right now)?

There's an anomoly here. API nitrite test turning dark purple means the nitrite is way above 5ppm. The problem is that at that level your fish would unquestionably all be dead in a matter of hours at most. The most obvious signs would initially be lethargic behaviour, like your dead cory, and/or gasping at the surface. That your fish are apparently behaving normally contradicts the API nitrite reading - unless you are overdosing with a dechlorinator that also detoxifies nitrite (Tetra aqua Safe plus doesn't), or you are adding salt in some form. In short, however, you should not allow the readings to go above 0.25 for either ammonia or nitrite by making suitable water changes. As you've got 0.25ppm ammonia to start with change when it gets to 0.5 (unless nitrite gets to 0.25 before that), and I would double-dose the dechlorinator to take account of the extra ammonia.

(3) Should we at the very least get a vacuum and clean out the rocks of any rotting food particles, assuming we were overfeeding the fish before?

You should clean everything as it's the excess food that causes more unwanted ammonia and consequently nitrite. Also you should only be feeding every other day, once a day.

(4) Should we just continue letting the tank cycle naturally, or should I add the FRITZ-Zyme Turbo Start Freshwater 700? Could that stuff harm the fish in a two-week-established tank? Or is it only intended to jump-start a fishless tank cycle?

Use the fritz-zyme. if the levels of ammonia and nitrite are as you say, it can only help.

(5) Should we add more plants? We have only two small plants and one medium-ish plant in the tank right now. We'd like more anyway, but will adding more right now hurt (or help) the tank's cycling?

Get as many fact growing plants in there as you can, they'll suck up the ammonia. Hornwort is a good one because you can just float it on the surface, or plant it.

(6) Is our filtration enough, or should we consider adding another in-the-tank / below-the-rocks type filter?


Didn't see any mention of your filter. The flow rate of the filter should be at least 5 times the volume of the tank.



On a general note, the first shop clearly don't have a clue but the second shop seem sensible.

Glow Light Tetras have kind of a yellowish tint to them now which they didn't have at first.

Could just be them colouring up slightly or, due to the poor water conditions, it could be velvet.
 
Hello Fuego and welcome! You've come to the right place to get help! :) You've gotten some really good advise already and I just would like to add that you don't need to worry about adding bogwood just yet! It lowers the ph only marginally. Your ph is fine!

If you like the look of bogwood you need to prepare it by pouring boiling water over it and let it soak. Soaking will release any tannins which will colour your tank water a tea colour. Keep changing the water it is soaking in, the colouring will get less and less as time goes on. (you are doing enough water changes with your tank already so you may not want to add that chore right now)

Soaking it before adding it to your tank will also help it get water logged to make it stay at the bottom of your tank. You can tie slate or rocks to it to help it stay down until it does on its own. You can "dress" up your drift- or bogwood by tying moss to it or tucking java fern into it.

It is also a good idea to brush the driftwood with a new toothbrush to remove any organic material that could cause a rotting smell.

A question if I may: When you were given the used filter material, was it kept wet until you placed it in the filter? I find it strange that you aren't seeing any Nitrate at all! Are you shaking the #2 bottle until there is no tomorrow? If the chemicals aren't properly shaken up chances are you are getting false readings!!!!
 
You've had some excellent advice thus far, I would especially agree with Prime Ordeal's assessments.


However
(2) Should we be doing 30% water changes or not? And, if so, how often? Will it help the nitrite level (the only reading I'm overly concerned about right now)?

NO your water changes should be MUCH BIGGER than 30%.

If you have a nitrite reading of 5ppm, then doing a 30% change will bring that down to 3.5ppm. In practical terms, you've made no difference, that is still lethal.

To get back to some semblance of a reasonable tank, you need to be doing multiple large changes, keep testing the water in between changes, and don't stop changing until the test reads 0.25ppm or lower.

Are you using liquid or paper tests?
 
There's an anomoly here. API nitrite test turning dark purple means the nitrite is way above 5ppm. The problem is that at that level your fish would unquestionably all be dead in a matter of hours at most. The most obvious signs would initially be lethargic behaviour, like your dead cory, and/or gasping at the surface. That your fish are apparently behaving normally contradicts the API nitrite reading - unless you are overdosing with a dechlorinator that also detoxifies nitrite (Tetra aqua Safe plus doesn't), or you are adding salt in some form. In short, however, you should not allow the readings to go above 0.25 for either ammonia or nitrite by making suitable water changes. As you've got 0.25ppm ammonia to start with change when it gets to 0.5 (unless nitrite gets to 0.25 before that), and I would double-dose the dechlorinator to take account of the extra ammonia.



That "anomoly" is the main thing that has me flummoxed, and, frankly, the high nitrite reading is the only thing that has me worried right now. All my other test readings are okay.

I did one more 30% water change when I got up this morning, then tested the water.

(( Question: Should I turn off my heater while doing water changes, since the water level is dropping below the top of the heater??? There's still water in the tank, but I'm afraid it might crack if it overheats. ))

Nitrite levels are still very high, I'd say between 2.0 and 5.0 based on the color results of the test. BUT THE FISH ARE STILL OUTWARDLY HEALTHY, ACTIVE AND EATING. I only gave them a very small pinch of food, probably a third of what I've been giving them, and it's the first time I gave them food in 24 hours.

My nitrates ARE going up (or I didn't do the test properly the first time)!!! It's somewhere around 10ppm. I think that's good news and maybe sign that the cycle is continuing.

Ammonia is low, I'd say between 0 and .25 based on the color of the test.

pH is the same, I'll maybe add some bogwood in there later on as ShinySideUp and Rummynose said, but I have enough to worry about right now.

To answer a few questions that have been asked of me: Yes, I transferred the old filter from the mature tank wet, it was soaking in a plastic bag all the way home up until I put it in my tank. I repositioned it last night, thinking that it needed to be closer to my "soft" filter rather than the hard filter. I've added two small capfuls of the FRITZ-Zyme Turbo Start Freshwater 700, poured it directly onto my filter at the store's recommendation.
 
Welcome to the forums :good: Here are a few rules of fish keeping

Rule #1: Don't listen to your LFS
Rule #2: Don't Listen To Your LFS
Rule #3: Don't Give Advice Given To You From An LFS

I hope you enjoy your stay

(1) Do we have too many fish in the tank, and should we insist on the first store taking back all of the fish they sold us except for maybe the two platys? (We are more emotionally attached to the platys than the other fish.)

Take the other fish back, keep the platies. You can cycle the tank with them alone, having too many fish will do more harm than good.

(2) Should we be doing 30% water changes or not? And, if so, how often? Will it help the nitrite level (the only reading I'm overly concerned about right now)?

You'll want to do a -lot- of water changes, here. But since your tap water has ammonia and nitrite in it, you may want to consider getting a better dechlorinater for your water, one that helps neutralize ammonia and such. I believe Both Seachem Prime and Stress Coat+ will do this.

(3) Should we at the very least get a vacuum and clean out the rocks of any rotting food particles, assuming we were overfeeding the fish before?

Yes, and you'll also want to feed the fish minimally. They can go a very long time without food, so don't feel like you're starving them or something. a tiny pinch once every couple days should suffice, if even that much.

(4) Should we just continue letting the tank cycle naturally, or should I add the FRITZ-Zyme Turbo Start Freshwater 700? Could that stuff harm the fish in a two-week-established tank? Or is it only intended to jump-start a fishless tank cycle?

That all sounds like a bunch of fancy fufu stuff that doesn't work. Though I haven't heard of it. If they're cycling products, waste of money.

(5) Should we add more plants? We have only two small plants and one medium-ish plant in the tank right now. We'd like more anyway, but will adding more right now hurt (or help) the tank's cycling?

Are they plastic or real? Real plants will complicate the cycle, in a sense, from what I understand. They also may die from too much ammonia. Don't worry about getting more, either way. You may even want to keep them somewhere else for a while, but I'm not sure.

(6) Is our filtration enough, or should we consider adding another in-the-tank / below-the-rocks type filter?

I wouldn't worry about it, and don't get a undergravel filter, they're high maintenance, and not to mention extremely gross. Definitely not worth it.
 
That's excellent news about the nitrates going up. The bad news is that you have ammonia and nitrites in your tap water. There are products you can add to your tank to turn the harmful ammonia into harmless ammonium. It will still show up in your test as ammonia, but you will know that it is now safe.

The nitrite I am not sure of! It will eventually be converted in your filter, but I would worry about the harm it can do in the meantime. It may be a good idea to find out the amount of nitrite in your tap water through your city's water report? Weekly water changes of 2 times 30% (every 4th day?) may be better than one 50% water change. :unsure:
 
(( Question: Should I turn off my heater while doing water changes, since the water level is dropping below the top of the heater??? There's still water in the tank, but I'm afraid it might crack if it overheats. ))

you'll want to unplug your filter and heater during water changes to avoid potential damage

My nitrates ARE going up (or I didn't do the test properly the first time)!!! It's somewhere around 10ppm. I think that's good news and maybe sign that the cycle is continuing.

that's a good sign. API's nitrate test thing is actually rather hard to use, takes a lot of shaking and banging against things with one of the bottles to get it right, miss-testing is kind of common.

Ammonia is low, I'd say between 0 and .25 based on the color of the test.

pH is the same, I'll maybe add some bogwood in there later on as ShinySideUp and Rummynose said, but I have enough to worry about right now.

A steady pH is better than a somewhat unsuitable one. Try not to mess with it all too much if your fish are already used to it. Especially with harder fish like platies.
 
That "anomoly" is the main thing that has me flummoxed

Hey stop pointing out my spelling mistakes! :lol:


(( Question: Should I turn off my heater while doing water changes, since the water level is dropping below the top of the heater??? There's still water in the tank, but I'm afraid it might crack if it overheats. ))

Always turn the heater off when doing water changes and do it at least 10 minutes before the change.

Nitrite levels are still very high, I'd say between 2.0 and 5.0 based on the color results of the test

It wouldn't be the first time I've seen inaccurate API tests (and usually reading high for nitrite). I would take a water sample to your fish shop to get a second opinion. Nitrite at those levels just can't be tolerated for very long by your fish, so something's amiss.
 
Just did another water change, 50% this time. That's two 30% changes and a 50% change in the last 12-14 hours. And I haven't seen a single change to my ammonia or nitrite numbers. They are exactly the same.

The fish are fine... still healthy and active, darting around happily. No lethargy. No gasping for breath.

I'm beginning to think I'm wasting my time with these water changes, honestly. The books I've read about the in-fish tank cycle all show the ammonia levels peaking at about 4.0 ppm about a week into the cycle and then dropping as the nitrite levels rise up to about 4.0 ppm around the second week -- which is exactly where we are -- then the nitrate levels starting to rise after that... which they are.
 

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