Harrys Juwel Rio 125 Marine Tank
- Thread starter Harry1996
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thanks i will make shore when i buy it i will check if there is any aiptasia on the rock and when the tank is cycled i will buy 1-2 peperment shrimps 
do you think i might over do with the v2 400 skimmer in the tank im buying (juwel 125)
do you think i might over do with the v2 400 skimmer in the tank im buying (juwel 125)
AK77
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thanks i will make shore when i buy it i will check if there is any aiptasia on the rock and when the tank is cycled i will buy 1-2 peperment shrimps
Its probably better to have a skimmer that will over perform than under. You can always reduce the flow/air mix to suit. Aim for a dry foam, not a wet one as you will be forever replacing the water in the tank.
1 peppermint shrimp should be fine. It will gradually work its way around and feed on the aiptasia. I'd also have either a skunk cleaner or fireshrimp in there too. The fireshrimps are beautiful. A deep blood red, with striking white legs. Expensive but a worthwhile addition to a tank, purely for their colouration alone.
thank you akk7 i do like the fireshrimp are they sometimes called blood shrimp?
also my dad has orded my skimmer and some xmas gifts for me
its proberly stuff from my list (test kits,refractometer,powerheads,thermometer and some other stuff to get me started on xmas day)
also my dad has orded my skimmer and some xmas gifts for me
its proberly stuff from my list (test kits,refractometer,powerheads,thermometer and some other stuff to get me started on xmas day)
AK77
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thank you akk7 i do like the fireshrimp are they sometimes called blood shrimp?
also my dad has orded my skimmer and some xmas gifts for me
Hi mate,
Yup they are often called blood shrimps too. Really beautiful creatures - when they aren't hiding behind a rock pile lol. I had a large one which cost me £18 at the time (gone up to £22 now
robbing sods). It sat upside down on a rock pile at the back of the tank and I hardly saw it lol. The only shirmp I think is prettier is the harlequin shrimp. Unfortunately they feed on starfish and urchins as their main food source.yes i know they are very ££££ but very nice clour. could i have 2 peppermint shrimp,1 cleaner shrimp 5 cirth and 5 nass snails, 3 turbo snails, 6 blue leg hermit and i pom pom crab. could i squeeze in a blood shrimp or would that be to much?
last night i just brought the tank!!!!!! 
just waiting for my skimmer.
me and my dad have not built the cabinet yet but here are some pictures. when i got back from the shop my dad was doing every thing he was taking the cardboard away and i was like dad its my tank. LoL my dad gets like that some times.
just waiting for my skimmer.me and my dad have not built the cabinet yet but here are some pictures. when i got back from the shop my dad was doing every thing he was taking the cardboard away and i was like dad its my tank. LoL my dad gets like that some times.
at the moment im putting on the lights to see how hot it gets. just in case i need to drill some holes in or buy some pc fans. do you think i should take out the filter or leave it in and put some live rock rubble and phos remover in?
do you think i should take out the filter or leave it in and put some live rock rubble and phos remover in?liamg1285
Fish Crazy
id take it out as it makes the display look nicer thats wat i did with mine anyways
Truck
UKAPS
use a pallet knife to ease the silicone away and then tug at it. Thats how I got mine out, just be careful of the seals though.
The internal lights shouldn't get too hot, they run quite cool for T5's and I've never had any over heating problems.
The internal lights shouldn't get too hot, they run quite cool for T5's and I've never had any over heating problems.
AK77
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Looking good Harry! I bet you're excited!!
What I would do now is measure the width of the inside of the cabinet for your sump and plan the design. Decide what layout you want, where the down pipe will enter and where the return pump will be. Have a look at refugiums and also deep sand beds as these are features you might want to incorporate for their respective benefits.
To play it safe and as tempting as it may be, I wouldn't put your sump on that shelf. The weight of it would be quite substantial and all that's supporting it is a few dowels. Moisture build up/splashes could also soften the chipboard over time and the weight of the sump alone may very well cause it to sag (happened in my juwel 180 cabinet), so putting it on the bottom of the cabinet would be a much better option. Line the bottom of the cabinet with some polystyrene sheet first too. I would also recommend that you place a fifth foot in the middle of the cabinet base. Again, this will prevent it from sagging and is well worth doing.
It may be a good idea to get some small cabinet brackets and reposition that shelf higher up in the cabinet. This will give you much more room underneath as you'll require space to fit all your equipment and be able to remove it for maintenance/cleaning/repair etc. You can also fix a light source to the underside of the shelf and have it high enough so that splashes are not an issue. This will allow you to grow macro algae in the sump which feed on nitrates and phosphates. You could also fit the extension lead to the back support panel of the cabinet which will help keep your cables tidy and ensure that all plugs for the equipment will reach. Sometimes companies aren't that generous with the power cords on the equipment.
You can also cut two holes in the shelf and fit two 80mm PC fans to it to improve the airflow. It completely removed the moisture build up in my cabinet. It might be an idea too to fit fans to the sides of the cabinet to help pull in drier air. I use a 72mm holesaw for fitting mine and fix them in place with the metal fan grills on the opposite site. To power these, simply wire them up to a 12v adapter. One with a voltage selector is best as you can run the fans at a lower voltage, thereby making them silent yet still moving a decent amount of air. You can use plain black ones if you want the look to be lowkey, or jazz it up with blue LED ones.
As for the internal filter, I'd remove it from the main tank as its a bit of an eyesore. Personally, I hate equipment being on display and always do my best to conceal it.
Before you put any sand in the tank, place a layer of eggcrate in the bottom. This will protect the base from the live rock and safeguard against it cracking in the future. Once you have done this, I'd suggest you add some ocean rock to begin the foundation of your rock piles. Then add your sand. Afterwards you can add your salt water and finally your live rock. Doing it this way means that the ocean rock is touching the base of the tank (egg crate) and isn't going to move, which will prevent a rock slide.
The sand then holds the base rock in place. It also means that when you add your live rock on top of your base rock, it will be fully exposed to water movement, and not partly wedged into the sand. The ocean rock will become live eventually too as the bacteria and critters colonize it. As your sand will already in place, your water will also not be anywhere near as cloudy, provided that you add it slowly. If you pre-mix your saltwater by about two days, then it should be crystal clear when you pour it in to the tank. Fresh salt water tends to be cloudy for a day or so, until the salt is fully dissolved.
That should give you enough to be getting on with for now lol. Good luck
What I would do now is measure the width of the inside of the cabinet for your sump and plan the design. Decide what layout you want, where the down pipe will enter and where the return pump will be. Have a look at refugiums and also deep sand beds as these are features you might want to incorporate for their respective benefits.
To play it safe and as tempting as it may be, I wouldn't put your sump on that shelf. The weight of it would be quite substantial and all that's supporting it is a few dowels. Moisture build up/splashes could also soften the chipboard over time and the weight of the sump alone may very well cause it to sag (happened in my juwel 180 cabinet), so putting it on the bottom of the cabinet would be a much better option. Line the bottom of the cabinet with some polystyrene sheet first too. I would also recommend that you place a fifth foot in the middle of the cabinet base. Again, this will prevent it from sagging and is well worth doing.
It may be a good idea to get some small cabinet brackets and reposition that shelf higher up in the cabinet. This will give you much more room underneath as you'll require space to fit all your equipment and be able to remove it for maintenance/cleaning/repair etc. You can also fix a light source to the underside of the shelf and have it high enough so that splashes are not an issue. This will allow you to grow macro algae in the sump which feed on nitrates and phosphates. You could also fit the extension lead to the back support panel of the cabinet which will help keep your cables tidy and ensure that all plugs for the equipment will reach. Sometimes companies aren't that generous with the power cords on the equipment.
You can also cut two holes in the shelf and fit two 80mm PC fans to it to improve the airflow. It completely removed the moisture build up in my cabinet. It might be an idea too to fit fans to the sides of the cabinet to help pull in drier air. I use a 72mm holesaw for fitting mine and fix them in place with the metal fan grills on the opposite site. To power these, simply wire them up to a 12v adapter. One with a voltage selector is best as you can run the fans at a lower voltage, thereby making them silent yet still moving a decent amount of air. You can use plain black ones if you want the look to be lowkey, or jazz it up with blue LED ones.
As for the internal filter, I'd remove it from the main tank as its a bit of an eyesore. Personally, I hate equipment being on display and always do my best to conceal it.
Before you put any sand in the tank, place a layer of eggcrate in the bottom. This will protect the base from the live rock and safeguard against it cracking in the future. Once you have done this, I'd suggest you add some ocean rock to begin the foundation of your rock piles. Then add your sand. Afterwards you can add your salt water and finally your live rock. Doing it this way means that the ocean rock is touching the base of the tank (egg crate) and isn't going to move, which will prevent a rock slide.
The sand then holds the base rock in place. It also means that when you add your live rock on top of your base rock, it will be fully exposed to water movement, and not partly wedged into the sand. The ocean rock will become live eventually too as the bacteria and critters colonize it. As your sand will already in place, your water will also not be anywhere near as cloudy, provided that you add it slowly. If you pre-mix your saltwater by about two days, then it should be crystal clear when you pour it in to the tank. Fresh salt water tends to be cloudy for a day or so, until the salt is fully dissolved.
That should give you enough to be getting on with for now lol. Good luck
thank you so much i have measured my cabenet. can you take out the shelf out completly? also there isnt much space in there so a 50cm long sump would fit but only 20cm wide so if i could take the shelf out then i could have a 50cm (long) by 20cm (wide) by 40-50cm (tall) would this be ok? also i might have an overflow box insted but are they noisey? also were is the cheapest place to get eggcrating? also i might add a sump later on (years time) because i dont have much money. sorry for all the alsos LoL 
i have measured my cabenet. can you take out the shelf out completly? also there isnt much space in there so a 50cm long sump would fit but only 20cm wide so if i could take the shelf out then i could have a 50cm (long) by 20cm (wide) by 40-50cm (tall) would this be ok? also i might have an overflow box insted but are they noisey? also were is the cheapest place to get eggcrating? also i might add a sump later on (years time) because i dont have much money. sorry for all the alsos LoL Similar threads
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