Hair algae problem.

I can turn it off but since I’ve put it on the plants seem to be growing at a faster rate. They still grow with the white but just really slowly. I think I’ve got some green spot algae on a lot of the plants leave too

Suit yourself, but I would be fairly certain the red/blue light is the issue. I've seen it before. And better to have slow plant growth than plants being suffocated with algae and dying.

To explain about the light spectrum. Red and blue are needed as these two colours (only) drive photosynthesis. However, scientifically-controlled studies did show that when green was added to the red and blue, plant response increased. Light high in red/blue/green is in the 5500-6500K range. So the additional red/blue while one might think good for plants, is also encouraging algae. The blue seems to be the worst for this, the LED lights that are very cool generally cause algae problems.
 
Suit yourself, but I would be fairly certain the red/blue light is the issue. I've seen it before. And better to have slow plant growth than plants being suffocated with algae and dying.

To explain about the light spectrum. Red and blue are needed as these two colours (only) drive photosynthesis. However, scientifically-controlled studies did show that when green was added to the red and blue, plant response increased. Light high in red/blue/green is in the 5500-6500K range. So the additional red/blue while one might think good for plants, is also encouraging algae. The blue seems to be the worst for this, the LED lights that are very cool generally cause algae problems.

thanks for this. Would you recommend getting another white one and just getting rid of the blue/pink?
 
Did you have algae issues before you stopped adding ferts?
 
I agree with Byron about the light could be causing algae. If the light isnt being utilized by the plants due to spectrum or intensity then algae will use it. Also high phosphates will contribute to algae as when the plants arent using the phosphate algae will.
Tomm Barr has said that the two nutrients that contribute most to algae growth are ammonia and inconsistent or too much CO2.
Are you using CO2 if so that could be a cause of the hair algae as well. If not its most likely the light and excess phosphates.
 
I agree with Byron about the light could be causing algae. If the light isnt being utilized by the plants due to spectrum or intensity then algae will use it. Also high phosphates will contribute to algae as when the plants arent using the phosphate algae will.
Tomm Barr has said that the two nutrients that contribute most to algae growth are ammonia and inconsistent or too much CO2.
Are you using CO2 if so that could be a cause of the hair algae as well. If not its most likely the light and excess phosphates.

i was dosing liquid Co2 at the start but stopped about 2 months ago after reading negatives about it.
 
i was dosing liquid Co2 at the start but stopped about 2 months ago after reading negatives about it.
The CO2 from two months ago shouldnt be an issue then.
Most likely the new light combined with high phosphates.
Also phosphate absorb pad /media doesnt do much in my opinion unless one is continually rinsing them or changing it. If you are seeing a decrease in your phosphates from using them then continue to do so, though ive never seen the use in them.
 
The CO2 from two months ago shouldnt be an issue then.
Most likely the new light combined with high phosphates.
Also phosphate absorb pad /media doesnt do much in my opinion unless one is continually rinsing them or changing it. If you are seeing a decrease in your phosphates from using them then continue to do so, though ive never seen the use in them.

thanks for this. How else can I get rid of phosphates besides using RO water?
 
Another explanation that may help you (Tony, and others interested) see the issue here.

Plants need sufficient intensity and spectrum light, and sufficient nutrients in order to grow (= photosynthesize). Duration of the light is basically irrelevant, and it cannot make up for deficiencies in intensity or spectrum. These factors of light and nutrients must be in balance to provide the plants' requirements, and each species can have differing requirements.

Taking the light first, it must have high red, blue and green with sufficient intensity to drive photosynthesis. Once this is achieved, it then needs the 17 nutrients to "feed" that growth. Provided all these requirements are met, the plants will photosynthesize full out, until something is no longer sufficient. At that point, photosynthesis slows and may even cease; it depends just what has become insufficient. Botanically this is called Liebig's Law of Minimum; it determined that plant growth is not determined or subject to the excess of nutrients or light, but rather the minimum of any one of the factors which then slows growth.

Higher plants are more specific in their requirements. Algae is able to manage in almost any situation. So as soon as the plants are no longer using the light and/or nutrients, algae has the advantage and will take it.

The 6500K light is providing the spectrum, no question there. The intensity we do not know, but if the plants were previously doing well (may have been slow growth in your eyes but they were apparently managing well) we can assume the intensity was adequate. However, nutrients may have been insufficient to balance. Fish food and water changes will provide the necessary nutrients, but usually not enough, depending upon the light intensity and the plant species, and the number of fish too. A comprehensive nutrient additive is usually beneficial. I use the word comprehensive for good reason; an excess of some nutrients will be detrimental to some plants--and to fish and bacteria too for that matter. Botanical studies have determined the percentage to each other of the nutrients aquatic plants require, and this percentage is used in products like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement and a couple of other similar products. Note well...the level of the nutrients in this product is all that the plants need, subject to knowing how much the plants in the aquarium require, and then providing it.

In a high tech planted tank, with mega light, diffused CO2 and daily nutrient doses, it is less of an issue to overdose "x" or "y." That method compensates with massive water changes to remove the "excess." [I won't get into the fish problems, but there is now evidence that high-tech systems do in fact harm fish.] But in a low-tech or natural planted tank, the accidental or deliberate excess dosing of any nutrient can be deadly. And inevitably algae will take advantage again.
 
Wow thanks for this Byron. I’ll keep the pink and blue off for a couple of weeks and see what happens. I tested for phosphates and in the tank it was between 2.0 and 5.0. Then I tested tap water and that was showing 5.0 too. This is way too high right?
 
Wow thanks for this Byron. I’ll keep the pink and blue off for a couple of weeks and see what happens. I tested for phosphates and in the tank it was between 2.0 and 5.0. Then I tested tap water and that was showing 5.0 too. This is way too high right?

Yes and no. Diana Walstad writes that her tanks have 4-5 ppm phosphate, though she does not add any. She says this is not an issue, but certainly do not add more. Phosphates occur with fish foods of course, and what is in the fish foods in most cases is sufficient for the plants. But one can get so involved with tests for this and that, when the simple approach is easier and safer. The KISS principle..."Keep It Simple, Stupid."

You do need to add the comprehensive fertilizer though, or the algae will still have the advantage. As you are in the UK you are lucky, the best plant additive is probably The Nutrient Company's TNC Lite. Not the TNC Complete, which has phosphate and nitrate, neither of which should ever be added to a low-tech or natural planted tank with fish. The TNC Lite has everything else and in correct proportions.
 
Yes and no. Diana Walstad writes that her tanks have 4-5 ppm phosphate, though she does not add any. She says this is not an issue, but certainly do not add more. Phosphates occur with fish foods of course, and what is in the fish foods in most cases is sufficient for the plants. But one can get so involved with tests for this and that, when the simple approach is easier and safer. The KISS principle..."Keep It Simple, Stupid."

You do need to add the comprehensive fertilizer though, or the algae will still have the advantage. As you are in the UK you are lucky, the best plant additive is probably The Nutrient Company's TNC Lite. Not the TNC Complete, which has phosphate and nitrate, neither of which should ever be added to a low-tech or natural planted tank with fish. The TNC Lite has everything else and in correct proportions.

haha makes sense. I’ve got fluorish comprehensive and flourish potassium should I dose these for now?
 
thanks for this. How else can I get rid of phosphates besides using RO water?
RO water is the only thing i know of sorry.
There was another poster i cant remember who and he had really high nitrates in his tap water and came up with a way to recharge his nitrazorb but not sure if the same would apply for phosphates. Sorry maybe somebody knows the poster im referring to i cant remember who it was.
 

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