Hair Algae? Please Help

High nitrate and high phosphate does not cause alage in itself.
BBA is caused by low or fluctuating CO2 levels.


Description

Often grows on leaf edges of slow growing plants, bog wood and mechanical equipment. Also sometimes it grows in fast flowing areas of the tank. Grows in clumps or patches of fine black tufts up to about 0.5cm long.



Cause

In a high light tank it is an indication of low or fluctuating CO2 levels or not enough water circulation around the plants. In a low light tank it is often due to changing CO2 levels.



Removal

In a high light tank you will need to increase your levels of CO2 and/or improve water circulation around the plants. Scrub and cut off as much as you can first. Increase levels slowly to 30ppm or more but watch the fish to see if they are respiring heavily. Make sure you have good water flow around the whole tank along with some good surface movement. Adding a powerhead may help.
If you have a low light tank without CO2 injection then not doing any water changes will help. This is because tap water often has lots of CO2 dissolved in it which causes CO2 levels in your tank to fluctuate. The algae respond to this a lot quicker than the plants do.
Siamese Algae Eaters are known to eat BBA so can be used to control this algae.
Overdosing Flourish Excel will clear it up.
this sounds like really good advice. i think if anything its due to the co2 levels. i dont have a co2 injector. i use plant ferts though. also im always doing water changes. around 2 times a week. but never a routine. just as long as i do it two times a week then thats ok for me. i have the latest lighting technology. ( t5 ) and i have good water flow. im really confused though. should i be doing lots more water changes or should i add some sort of treatment. for excample. seachem excel and anti algae ect and then wait a week?

and how could you suggest keeping the co2 level up in a low tech tank? The best compromise if suffering from BBA that water changes may be causing due to the co2 in the change water is to leave it to stand 24hrs before use and to change water after lights off this will allow co2 to degas and return to 'normal' levels before it effects the algae or plants i.e. when the lights are on.
It was late when I added my last post above so thats my excuse :p
i use a fluval u4 in my tank along with my cristalprofi external filter which enters the tank underwater so not to create to much water movement. the fluval internal fi;lter is used with the ventri system and produces alot of bubbles and they seem to pop and fizz onto the flaps where flat algae grown in slimne from that i have to keep cleaning. do you think the ventri system is causing too much water movement and co2 loss? would a large airstone be beeter?
 
You don't wanna do that. Airation removes CO2 and there will be none left for your plants to breath. Planted tank - your plants need CO2. When I do my water changes, that's the only time my plants actually bubble.
 
You don't wanna do that. Airation removes CO2 and there will be none left for your plants to breath. Planted tank - your plants need CO2. When I do my water changes, that's the only time my plants actually bubble.
so whats the best way to oxygenate my tank? will 2 water changes weekly and a very light airstone be enough? i have a very well stocked tank!
 
Gaseous exchange takes place on the surface, both oxygen and co2 so you need surface movement. But the amount of co2 in equalibrium in the water always remains low despite this movement, airation removes it further.
The amont of CO2 in the water is barely enough to grow lush plants which is why everyone seems to rave about adding co2. When I first got on this forum I didn't realise this either - it seems to be a common misconception about air blocks and airation.
 
Gaseous exchange takes place on the surface, both oxygen and co2 so you need surface movement. But the amount of co2 in equalibrium in the water always remains low despite this movement, airation removes it further.
The amont of CO2 in the water is barely enough to grow lush plants which is why everyone seems to rave about adding co2. When I first got on this forum I didn't realise this either - it seems to be a common misconception about air blocks and airation.
my plants have always grown well without me adding co2. whats a good co2 injector i can use and what levels should i keep and how do i monitor it? really dont wanna spend alot.
 
When I do finally start adding co2, it's going to be a simple difuser joined by a pipe and one way valve to a home made soda bottle with yeast and sugar mixture.
 

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