Green Slime Algae

donkey

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The problem I am having at the moment is a very bad case of algae. The algae is dark green and slimy. It is covering all the plants and gravel in the tank. It is easy to remove by hand, but grows back very quickly. I also notice that the tank has a swamp smell about it. I have been using a product called Protalon-707, this has helped a little but the problem still remains. The tank has been running close to a year, I originally started with two tubes over the tank, I have now increased this to four. The tank is home to eight discus and four bristlenose, the bristlenoses will not eat this algae. I was doing 50% water changes twice a week, but I have not done any water changes for the last week since I have been using Protalon. The tanks lights are on ten hours a day, after testing the water tonight I have found that my Nitrate is 160, and the Phosphate is 5.0. I have also tested my tap water, and the Nitrate is 5.0 and the Phosphate is still 5.0. If I remove the algae from the plants, the plants will pearl like mad, this will only last a few days and the green slimy algae returns. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to kill this algae as I am on my wits end?
 
people usually dont prefer using algaecides... sometimes it can harm ure fishes and plants... take a loot at the dennerle website on algae control and also searching the net for chuck's planted aquaria articles on algae control :)
your nitrates are pretty high should be a main reason for algae bloom bec u suddenly upgraded lighting
 
Here is a bit of an explanation about the type of algae you have:

Blue-green algae/Cyanobacteria

"Blue-green algae" is not really a true algae at all, but Cyanobacteria - a group of bacteria capable of photosynthesis. It can appear as a slimy coating in a number of different colours. It can smother plants and may release toxins harmful to fish. It can fix nitrogen and may therefore occur in tanks with zero or very low nitrates (but possibly high levels of other nutrients, particularly phosphate). It can be removed manually quite easily, as it often forms loose sheets, but it's likely to return quickly. Improving circulation/aeration in the tank sometimes causes it to decline. It can be treated with erythromycin (200mg/10 gallons) - this may however affect the filter bacteria, so it will be necessary to check for ammonia and nitrite after dosing.
 
Cyanobacteria has been driving me mad for a few months now. I also have high phosphate in my tap water 3.5- 4.0 mg/l. A few days ago I sent an email to my local water board enquiring why it was so high. I received an email from them today saying I should call the "Service Enquiries Team" because they needed more info. I thought I would check the phosphate level again before I called. Would you believe it has suddenly dropped to 0.25- 0.5 mg/l. Think I might leave it a while before I call and keep an eye on the level. Might be worth your while to ask your water board the same question. It will be very difficult to get rid of cyano with phosphate levels so high.
 
You seem to have very high nitrate and phosphate, BBA can thrive on both and yes it can fic nitrogen from the atmosphere.

Is that 160 ppm nitrate? that is way too high, you should aim for 10 ppm or less and phosphate 0.5 ppm or less.

I am wondering do you mean 16 ppm and 0.5ppm?

You can lower phosphate by adding Rowaphos in the filter.

Do you use RO water by any chance? Also what is your ph?


I am having a bit of aproblem with BGA, i found that nitrite is very low <5 ppm becaue my tanks are heavily planted, but phosphate had risen to 2ppm and this can cause problems.

You are doing alot of water changes so i assume you are removing most detritus.

I think perhaps it is the phosphate as it is already quite high in the rap water.

I have used protolon it works, but only for a while if the source problem is not removed. Perhaps try using rowaphos aswell.

I am starting to use RO water because it removes 95-100% of contaminants like nitrate, phosphate. pestciides and heavy metals.
 
Thanks for the link for the erythromycin. god that dont come cheap :eek: the nitrate was tested using a AQUARIUM PHARMACEUTICALS test kit and yes it is 160 ppm . sorry to say i am not using a RO dont have the money for one at the moment. how long dose Rowaphos last for in a 55 gallon tank with this much phosphate
 
In regard to Rowaphos the instructions say it should last a few months, however it does recomend to put it in fro mthe start in new aquariums. It will reduce your phoshate in your tank. Even water companies use it.

I saw your post on UKDA and some other people have it, its a hard one to tackle and i am wondering if they also use RO water or not because it contains very low concs of phosphate and nitrate.


Its a real pain I know, trying to keep it under control aswell although it is in low doses.
 
have now got my nitrate down to 40 ppm . and i will be doing the 3 day blackout . will let you know how it goes guys
 
blue green algea

10 day Co2 at 14mg/l 378 watt of light and guess what, added kent plant growth and you get?
blue%20green%20algae.jpg


clear image of blue green algea phoshate 0.25mg/l nirates 5mg/l what is going on here?

blue%20green%20algae.jpg



hope it help someone

I have added carbon filter, and are currently removing this daily! i really mean daily


cya ob1
 
a pic of mine
 

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blue green algea

10 day Co2 at 14mg/l 378 watt of light and guess what, added kent plant growth and you get?
blue%20green%20algae.jpg


clear image of blue green algea phoshate 0.25mg/l nirates 5mg/l what is going on here?

blue%20green%20algae.jpg



hope it help someone

I have added carbon filter, and are currently removing this daily! i really mean daily. need help to understand what I should do too




cya ob1
 

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