Got A 50gal For Free To Fix...some Questions

[trojannemo]

well i saw on craigslist this way was giving away 3 "60 gallon" tanks that were leaking...all i had to do was drive 45 minutes to get there i could only fit one of them in my tank unfortunately.

the tank is 36x18x18 or so, so it works out to less than 60G, but it's still more than my current tank. it's the same size except for it being wider to the back, which is exactly what i was looking for

the tank needs a lot of work. it had a blue plastic background glued on that i already removed. also need to close a sump hole it has on the bottom. my question is regarding adding the new sealant.
instead of just fixing the old leaks, i'm going to remove as much of the old silicone and adding all new one, clear and better-looking. how much do i apply to each seam? do i just need to cover it or gunk it on top? 2-3 days to dry? how much "excess" can i cut to make it look as good as possible while not damaging the seal?

i'm excited to do this project just right as like i said, it's the perfect tank size for my room and my fish...i never thought i'd come across one of these, and i got it FREE!

 

[rabbut]

OK, you need to scrape off all traces of the old silicone first, ensureing all the old seams are gone, leaving in place the structural silicone. Next, apply pressure to the front and back panes outwardly to see if they move at the seam. They should not. If they do, you will have to completely strip the tank down to individual panes and re-build from scratch as the structural silicone will be on it's way out I'll assume for now the structural silicone is OK as it usualy is, but MUST be checked before going any further with the repair

Now that all traces of the old silicone is off, you need to wipe down with any alcohol based liquid (Meths, Nail-varnish remover, Jhonsons flea spray...) to remove all silicone residue. Silicone will not stick to silicone, so all of the old seams must be removed, or the repair will leak

Make sure you are using either a food grade or an aquatics grade silicone. Usual window sealant is not fish safe. If you want a neet finish, mask off where you want the silicone to go and wipe down with alcohol fluid again to remove any finger grease. Next, run a thin bead of silicone arround all the seams. Smooth it over with a wet finger to ensure it has stuck properly and remove all masking tape where applicable. Do not rush, but if the process takes more than 5-10 minuites, the whole job is scrap an will need doing again, as the silicone will have started to "skin over". Avoid leaning over the tank, as inhailing the fumes will make you choke badly (talking from experience there ) and the fumes probibly aren't too good for you

The tank will need to be left to cure for 48 hours, or untill the vinegar smell goes, whichever comes last

HTH
Rabbut

 

[trojannemo]

well i got out the plastic backing, the paint on the side, and all the silicone in the tank.
i'm stuck at the next step though....the are marks on the glass, i think from the old silicone or calcium deposits but i cant get rid of them. i've tried using vinegar, isopropyl alcohol and automotive windshield degreasing fluid and still nothing...i go over it like if it wasn't even on the glass, and it is! (duh!)

i dont want to reseal the tank until i can get it completely clean and i'm sure i want to go ahead with the restoration...any ideas as to how to clean the glass?

 

[rabbut]

VERY sharp blade, elbow grease, water and possibly as scouring pad is the way to go It will be heavy work, but there are no substitutes for it I'm afraid (at least that I have come across anyway)

 

[trojannemo]

well i used razor blades to remove all the silicone. i still have about 10 unused blades with the scraping back...when i go at the stains with a razor, it doesnt do anything im afraid. i guess i'll try using a pad and more elbow grease

 

[smegforbrains]

Try using proper Stanley Knife type blades. They are more rigid and will cut into the limescale easier