splat!
jk that probably wont happen.
anyway i advise you return as many healthy fish there are.
the one last unhealthy one looks like scar
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Friends Tank
- Thread starter PhantomCarp
- Start date
jk that probably wont happen.
anyway i advise you return as many healthy fish there are.
the one last unhealthy one looks like scar
I have heard of Spatial Dwarfism mentioned on this forum site before. I have just done a google search but can't find anything about it. Can you please post a link to information about it so I can look it up.
It is excess mucous around a damaged eye.
Leave the fish where it is and don't handle it because you can do more damage to it.
Make sure the water is good and add some salt. It should heal up by itself in a few days.
--------------------
Basic First Aid for fish includes the following.
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Add some salt, (see directions below).
If there's no improvement after a week with daily water changes and salt, or it gets worse during that time, you might need a broad spectrum medication that treats fungus, protozoan and bacteria infections. But salt and clean water should fix this issue.
--------------------
SALT
For some fish diseases you can use salt (sodium chloride) to treat the ailment rather than using a chemical based medication. Salt is relatively safe and is regularly used in the aquaculture industry to treat food fish for diseases. Salt has been successfully used to treat minor fungal and bacterial infections, as well as a number of external protozoan infections. Salt alone will not treat whitespot (Ichthyophthirius) or Velvet (Oodinium) but will treat most other types of protozoan infections in freshwater fishes.
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate if you like, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
Leave the fish where it is and don't handle it because you can do more damage to it.
Make sure the water is good and add some salt. It should heal up by itself in a few days.
--------------------
Basic First Aid for fish includes the following.
Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.
Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.
Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.
Add some salt, (see directions below).
If there's no improvement after a week with daily water changes and salt, or it gets worse during that time, you might need a broad spectrum medication that treats fungus, protozoan and bacteria infections. But salt and clean water should fix this issue.
--------------------
SALT
For some fish diseases you can use salt (sodium chloride) to treat the ailment rather than using a chemical based medication. Salt is relatively safe and is regularly used in the aquaculture industry to treat food fish for diseases. Salt has been successfully used to treat minor fungal and bacterial infections, as well as a number of external protozoan infections. Salt alone will not treat whitespot (Ichthyophthirius) or Velvet (Oodinium) but will treat most other types of protozoan infections in freshwater fishes.
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate if you like, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
ye me too but i forgot the link
(PDF) Nanism (dwarfism) in fish: A comparison between red mullet Mullus barbatus from the southeastern and the central Mediterranean
PDF | The gradient of environmental conditions from west to east in the Mediterranean results in very low primary productivity in the eastern area of... | Find, read and cite all the research you need on ResearchGate
www.researchgate.net
The evolutionary ecology of dwarfism in three‐spined sticklebacks
Using intra-species variation in three-spined sticklebacks, the authors show that dwarfism evolves rapidly in resource poor lakes in the absence of smaller competitors. This is one of the first studi...
[PDF] Nanism (dwarfism) in fish: a comparison between red mullet Mullus barbatus from the southeastern and the central Mediterranean | Semantic Scholar
Red mullet Mullus barbatus from trawl surveys carried out along the Mediterranean coast of Israel and the Strait of Sicily indicated that the Israeli fish sexually mature at a smaller size than conspecifics of the same sex from Sicily, explaining low productivity in the Levantine basin. The...
www.semanticscholar.org
Nanisme spatial : définition et explications
Le nanisme spatial, à la différence du nanisme génétique ou nanisme primordial, consiste en un arrêt de développement (croissance) en milieu confiné, résultant...
www.aquaportail.com
Zebrafish pit1 Mutants Lack Three Pituitary Cell Types and Develop Severe Dwarfism
Abstract. The Pou domain transcription factor Pit-1 is required for lineage determination and cellular commitment processes during mammalian adenohypophysi
academic.oup.com
When fish has had this thing around its eye for around a year ??
I am sorry, I was looking for the study on Goldfish and Aquarium fish that has been done about Dwarfism.
Don't be sorry. I just remembered I also read it, but title
OP
OP
PhantomCarp
Fish Addict
Ty so much
Anonymous Fox
Fish Addict
???
I don't think you guys get it.
I don't have 4 common goldfish in a ten-gallon. I've never even owned one. the tank was empty when I got it, last time I went over to my friend's house, I didn't know her so well, so I didn't say anything about it. she can afford an out-door pond or smth, so I can talk to her about it.
also, why am I being irresponsible?
sorry, didn't read it had been there for a year. In which case it is excess mucous or a thick layer of clear skin over an old injury and won't change.
OP
OP
PhantomCarp
Fish Addict
She has told me that it’s gotten bigger from when she first noticed it, if that helps you try to figure it out
It's not a disease or parasite and doesn't look like a tumour or cyst, so I will stay with excess mucous over a wound.
The bottom of the eye looks a bit red and that could be an underlying infection that hasn't healed properly.
I would try salt and water changes (as mentioned above) and see if it helps. If not, there's not much else you can do.
The bottom of the eye looks a bit red and that could be an underlying infection that hasn't healed properly.
I would try salt and water changes (as mentioned above) and see if it helps. If not, there's not much else you can do.
you just have to pass infos Whatever it is, for around a year from what @PhantomCarp told in first post ??
In this regard, could you please post clearer and closer pics ?
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