Fish Looks Infected

Ilya

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Well my (only) one eyed Zebra Danio (I bought him like that, and didn't know he had one eye) is having trouble swimming. This fish looks like it has low energy, and it has a pale spot on it's side that runs to the top and slightly over the dorsal fin. It's kind of milky white. I would take a picture but I don't have my camera.

Anyhow, my water conditions are good. There is some ammonia, but it's very low. The nitrItes shouldn't be high, I'll check it in a bit. Anyway, the water is crystal clear, and the other fish are doing great.
 
Well my (only) one eyed Zebra Danio (I bought him like that, and didn't know he had one eye) is having trouble swimming. This fish looks like it has low energy, and it has a pale spot on it's side that runs to the top and slightly over the dorsal fin. It's kind of milky white. I would take a picture but I don't have my camera.

Anyhow, my water conditions are good. There is some ammonia, but it's very low. The nitrItes shouldn't be high, I'll check it in a bit. Anyway, the water is crystal clear, and the other fish are doing great.


Possibly sounds like fungal in which case needs to be treated asap once you put the pic up will be able to tell for sure, probably brought on from stress ie. getting beaten up and losing an eye.
 
I searched and I'm positive that it's Columnaris. One other fish has it. It's on the back, and close to the mouth.

I only have one aquarium :(.
 
I didn't. I'm taking the two fish and making a hospital. First time I've ever gotten the outbreak.
 
I can't do any of that until tomorrow. And I need to buy aquarium salt and antibiotic. And I can't buy it until I get back from a Cross Country meet tomorrow. :mad:

All I can do now is create a hospital tank and separate the two fishes from the community.
 
And here are some prevention metods:

Prevention:

Quarantine new fish for two weeks

Maintain high water quality

Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet

Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them

Disinfect nets and other equipment before using

Because the bacteria thrive on organic wastes, it can be controlled by regular water changes and vacuuming of the gravel. Proper diet and maintaining good water quality in general will keep the fish from being stressed and therefore susceptible to infection. To avoid spreading the bacterium, nets, specimen containers, and other aquarium equipment should be disinfected before each use. Small quantities of aquarium salt can be used to prevent disease in livebearer aquariums. When fish are being shipped or moved, they may be treated prophylactically with antibiotics or by feeding them medicated food.
 
Okay. The nitrIte is 0. Thank God. Last time I checked my ammonia was like .15 ppm. And that was before a water change. Maybe they are contaminated fish. Because I did introduce 2 new Zebra Danio. And that's exactly the number (they were the same size too :p).

My water quality is good. The only real problem I have is my algae :p.

Found this:
Basics
If the disease cause is not obvious, check water conditions, including temperature, pH, GH, KH, NH3, NH4, PO4, NO2. Observe the fish for symptoms. Check any recent changes.

Hospital Tank
Diseased fish should be isolated whenever possible so they are not likely to spread infections among other healthy fish in the tank. The best way to isolate sick fish is to set up a hospital tank. If possible move all sick fish to a hospital tank, without sand, live plants and decorations. If the treatment is an antibiotic antiseptic or copper based, remember to remove all carbon from the filtration system. Make sure the biological filtration in your aquarium which cycle harmfull ammonia and nitrites is not destroyed by drugs. The tank should be furnished with a reliable heater that will not permit much temperature variance. The tank should be furnished with an air stone. After treating the sick fish, disinfect the tank.

Baths
An alternative means of treating a fish is to give it a short bath in a bucket containing water and a medication or salt.

Salt bath
A salt bath is a good way of treating the fish without damaging the beneficial bacteria. It is a good antiseptic and fungicide. Most table salts may contain additives like magnesium sulfate to keep them from clumping and appear whiter, which might not be beneficial to fish. Aquarium salt is recommended, although Kosher salt or rock salt is satisfactory.

Heat Therapy
Heat therapy of raising the water temperature, can be administered to kill certain parasites. The temperature should be raised gradually. Sometimes diseased fish cannot handle such a temperature change, or the species can not tolerate high temperatures. Discontinue treatment if any side effects occur. Aeration is necessary since less oxygen is dissolved in warm water.

Medications
Commercial fish medications are not regulated by any government agency. This means that some commercial medications have not been tested for safety or effectiveness. Thus some medications may be completely useless and may be even harmful to aquarium inhabitants.

Treatment Options

* Conservative treatment
o Temperature modifications
o Changing water conditions
* Pharmaceuticals
o Drug baths
o Topical drugs
o Feeding drugs
o Injecting drugs
* Surgery
* Killing the fish
 
I have pure sea salt and (from trader Joes. The ingredients only say "Sea Salt" and nothing else). And Mediterranean Sea Salt (it doesn't list ingredients).
 

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