Fish House Main Cable?

[flash22]

youve got to remeber your calulations will be the peak load what will never happen. Allowing for the lenght of run 10 to 16mm 3 core swa will be fine. iirc standard domestic incoming supply is a 100 amp this is dependent on the age of the property tho

40-60 amp rcbo in the house with a 3-4 way cosumer unit in the shed will be fine 3 ring mains with 16/32 amp rcd's and a 6 amp for the lighting

about one of the cheapest places for electric stuff is TLC-Direct loads of trade counters around plus very good mail order too

To meet with current govment reg's your need the electrics cert'ed by a NIC reg'd sparky you may also need to update your cross bonding if its not up to scratch

As for the plaster board battern the room out use a fix a waterproof membrane to the batterns then screww the plaster board to it then either skim it or tape and join it to make it look nice

 

[dane261]

i would not plaster the walls leave the silver foil on the insulation show as this reflects the head as with the plaster walls it will absorb some heat which you dont want ill get some pics when my cameras returned to me





Dane

 

[Gun]

Managed to fit some insulation today.





You can also see part of the roof area and the other side of the shed.

All of the gaps between the rafters will be boarded over (probably plywood), except for three of the gaps. This is to allow some natural light in. The gaps left open will have a plastic sheet covering them, to keep the heat in. First of all though, some of the rafters need some repare work done..after taking a battering over the years.

 

[spesh]

youve got to remeber your calulations will be the peak load what will never happen. Allowing for the lenght of run 10 to 16mm 3 core swa will be fine. iirc standard domestic incoming supply is a 100 amp this is dependent on the age of the property tho

40-60 amp rcbo in the house with a 3-4 way cosumer unit in the shed will be fine 3 ring mains with 16/32 amp rcd's and a 6 amp for the lighting

about one of the cheapest places for electric stuff is TLC-Direct loads of trade counters around plus very good mail order too

To meet with current govment reg's your need the electrics cert'ed by a NIC reg'd sparky you may also need to update your cross bonding if its not up to scratch

As for the plaster board battern the room out use a fix a waterproof membrane to the batterns then screww the plaster board to it then either skim it or tape and join it to make it look nice

Not peak load, you need to apply diversity too it as peak load will never happen. Most houses in mainland UK are fed via a 60amp main gG fuse, some newer properties are 80amp.

Not sure about finding a NICEIC spark that will certificate, what is a new install, someone elses work. I certainly wouldn't!

Mark

(ps - cross bonding is pretty much a thing of the past, mostly removed in the 17th Ed, so long as your incomers are bonded thats it now pretty much)

 

[flash22]

Not peak load, you need to apply diversity too it as peak load will never happen. Most houses in mainland UK are fed via a 60amp main gG fuse, some newer properties are 80amp.

Not sure about finding a NICEIC spark that will certificate, what is a new install, someone elses work. I certainly wouldn't!

Mark

(ps - cross bonding is pretty much a thing of the past, mostly removed in the 17th Ed, so long as your incomers are bonded thats it now pretty much)

most will cert the work if its sound. the above work can be classed as an addition rather than a new install saves a lot of paperwork. old houses + older wiring = headaches (been thier done that got the tee shirt and empty jar of coffee what the sparks drunk. lol)

we had a doggy incomming earth 2 ground spikes later all fixed

 

[Peteruk]

All of the gaps between the rafters will be boarded over (probably plywood), except for three of the gaps. This is to allow some natural light in. The gaps left open will have a plastic sheet covering them, to keep the heat in. First of all though, some of the rafters need some repare work done..after taking a battering over the years.

I have had a reptile/tarantula shed which has been set up for 7 years but which is going to be changed over to fish in the very near future and one thing i have learned in this time is to TOTALLY cover and insulate ALL holes/doors/windows. If there is somewhere that natural light can get in so can external heat (from the sun) and in the winter so can heat escape (which you dont want) which can and will totally mess up your temperatures. Covering the rafters with a plastic sheet will NOT keep the heat in one little bit .... no way no how.
You said in a few posts back that there will be 3 wires per tank ?!
What will you be plugging in ?
I will have either 21 or 25 tanks (havent decided yet) and the only things that will be plugged in will be the 2KW oil filled radiator for heat, the air conditioning in the summer, one or two large air pumps and a few powerheads for the large 56 gallon tank and the shed lights (which have been running for 7 years for 12 hours a day and still going.. best buy i every made apart from the 12 fan that has never ever been turned off since the shed was set up ))

One thing I can tell you................ Do NOT try and scrimp to save a few £££ in the long run it will cost you a lot more that you ever would have saved.

 

[Gun]

"You said in a few posts back that there will be 3 wires per tank ?!
What will you be plugging in ?
I will have either 21 or 25 tanks (havent decided yet) and the only things that will be plugged in will be the 2KW oil filled radiator for heat, the air conditioning in the summer, one or two large air pumps and a few powerheads for the large 56 gallon tank and the shed lights (which have been running for 7 years for 12 hours a day and still going.. best buy i every made apart from the 12 fan that has never ever been turned off since the shed was set up ))"

Yep around 3 plugs per tank, this could be the case for up to 15 tanks (could be for a week, a month or so). Like I said earlier, this is only going to be the case until I get the bigger systems up and running (mainly air). If I can get a few tanks sharing some of my small pumps, then it may be less than three wires.

The idea (long term) is to reduce electricity use to the minimum needed. Maximum 1 plug per tank is the target, I have a feeling I can get this much lower, though

"Covering the rafters with a plastic sheet will NOT keep the heat in one little bit .... no way no how." How?

"Do NOT try and scrimp to save a few £££ in the long run it will cost you a lot more that you ever would have saved" Scrimping was never the idea. There's no harm in looking for bargains in certain areas of the fish house (tanks etc). If there is equipment I can afford that will reduce maintenance and the overall power going to shed, then it will be considered.

All of the gaps between the rafters will be boarded over (probably plywood), except for three of the gaps. This is to allow some natural light in. The gaps left open will have a plastic sheet covering them, to keep the heat in. First of all though, some of the rafters need some repare work done..after taking a battering over the years.

I have had a reptile/tarantula shed which has been set up for 7 years but which is going to be changed over to fish in the very near future and one thing i have learned in this time is to TOTALLY cover and insulate ALL holes/doors/windows. If there is somewhere that natural light can get in so can external heat (from the sun) and in the winter so can heat escape (which you dont want) which can and will totally mess up your temperatures. Covering the rafters with a plastic sheet will NOT keep the heat in one little bit .... no way no how.
You said in a few posts back that there will be 3 wires per tank ?!
What will you be plugging in ?
I will have either 21 or 25 tanks (havent decided yet) and the only things that will be plugged in will be the 2KW oil filled radiator for heat, the air conditioning in the summer, one or two large air pumps and a few powerheads for the large 56 gallon tank and the shed lights (which have been running for 7 years for 12 hours a day and still going.. best buy i every made apart from the 12 fan that has never ever been turned off since the shed was set up ))

One thing I can tell you................ Do NOT try and scrimp to save a few £££ in the long run it will cost you a lot more that you ever would have saved.

 

[mike os]

number of outlets is irrelevant, (unless changed in 17th edn) to calculate cable size you need to know the load ( and how it is made up to allow for diversity[a regulation guestimate of what will be on and for how long/how often] and the cable length.

eg lights 8--12h/day, pumps 24/7 etc.

given a realistic breakdown allows a proper approach rather than an amateur guess.