First Time Salty ~370L

[drsquirrel]

Received...
-Digital Temp Gauge
-LowaPhos
-150w MH Bulb 20,000k
-Electric junction box
-Tank!!





Image doesn't really show the scale of the tank, make it look tiny!




Tank isn't in it's final position, and I made a mistake when ordering, I never specified which side the weir was supposed to be on, I supplied a drawing to make clear I wanted it in the centre but on that image it was on the left (It wasn't intended to be to scale or anything) so they made it to the left. We turned it ourselves here and put a new hole in the base and sealed it for the weir positioning, also put another access hole in the side of the hood (the other will now be a vent, possible fan mounting at a later date too.

Is the sump the "correct" way around? I would assume it was wrong after having to turn it, but to me this makes more sense... I'd rather have the return pump go straight up... thoughts?


Next few days I will be sorting out the power and plumbing getting the pumps and skimmer into place so I can do a leak test. Then I will mount the HM in the hood, will be my only light until I get something else.


Once I get some egg crate, sand will go in and will start to fill with salt water. The search for LiveRock will start properly, I have found my choice online shop for the Rock but will look for "second hand" rock.


Whilst cycling, can I use a slightly lower salinity? (ie how does the bacteria deal with varying salinity levels). Could save an awful lot of salt if you could cycle with it slightly lower because of all the water changes.

 

[drsquirrel]

Bit unrelated, but this is going to be out Dwarf Puffer tank, currently cycling with food atm as I cannot find Ammonia.

 

[john.o]

I have just read the full thread and this looks like it’s shaping up to be a really good build,
well done sir I’m tagging along for the ride

 

[john.o]

Is the sump the "correct" way around?
Looking at the pic in post 16 the sump is designed to run from the left side to the right
Whilst cycling, can I use a slightly lower salinity?
You could always cycle the tank at the lowest end of the recommended S,G scale then once its cycled and you do your water change {1x at the end of the cycle / the amount you will have to change will depend on your readings} you could raise the S,G to your requirement before adding any live stock

 

[drsquirrel]

Is the sump the "correct" way around?
Looking at the pic in post 16 the sump is designed to run from the left side to the right

Thanks, that's the way I viewed the sump too, I thought it would have been better to pump straight up, although the pipe work I have is setup for pump away from the weir.

I'm going to get some more 1 3/4" to put the drain from the weir across and a bit more soft pipe to pump straight up as the sump poly is glued and without more I cannot move the sump to the right, hardly an issue though.

Hopefully will have all the pipe work tomorrow and will start cementing it in place.

The back of the cabinet isn't "complete", there is a gap at the top, and the cabinet is much higher than I expected so I can see into the sump from my desk going to get a nice piece just to cover the top part up too.

 

[john.o]

Quick tip

don’t solvent weld the T piece of the duso on to the striate pipe that way you can take it off for cleaning ect {you won’t believe how much crap builds up on the inside of the down flow pipe }

 

[drsquirrel]

ta, the durso is already "built" and the top is loose.

The bulk head fittings, I'm not sure which side the washers (soft rubber, hard plastic) should go on, or even if I should cement both sides on.

Never dealt with a drilled tank before, and oddly after a quick search nothing much comes up regarding how to actually set stand pipes

 

[john.o]

Take the bulk head and insert it with the threads sticking down and out the bottom of the tank ,then put the hard plastic washer on{the white one} then the nut and hand tight use silicone to seal inside the weir and outside, don’t use the black rubber washer as it will rot with the salt water .
Hope that helps john

 

[john.o]

Once the bulk heads are in place I would then solvent weld 90% of the return into the weir as follows...
Strait pipe S/w into the bulk head then a 90 bend S/w on to the top of that then a short length of pipe solvent weld into the 90 to clear the weir then on the end of that short piece of pipe I would put plumbers PTFE tape then tight fit a 90 and a sort length of pipe that way you can swivel the pipe up or down to direct the flow { little tip the short length of pipe , heat one end up over a gas flame then put it on a flat surface and push down on the end to spread it out so it is like a thin slit that way you will get a wider flow}
The duso I would dry test in place first you want it so that the bottom of the T is no lower than 1 ½ inch to 2 inch below the bottom of the weir combs, the lower down you have it in the weir the louder the water will be as it spills throw the weir combs and tumbles down to the water height in the weir {which is dictated by the height of the bottom of the T piece on the duso} then when happy I would silicon this in place

As for the sump area I would properly just use this little lot

Hose tails and soft pipe the return and down flow from the duso....

Hose tails.... http/www.coralculture.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=157_175

This type of pipe for the down flow from the duso... http/shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=black+pond+pipe&_sacat=See-All-Categories

and this type of pipe for the return... http/www.coralculture.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=157_135_304

with a T piece and a valve that way you can open the valve and let some of the flow from the return pump return back in to the sump {you don’t want to just put a valve in line because it will put pressure on the pump and it can make it fail,

T piece and valves... http/www.coralculture.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=157_135_158

Hope this is of some help and gives you some ideas
Regards john,o

 

[drsquirrel]

Thanks, clears it up for me

I got the piping and parts to sort out the return pump, but cannot find the correct size for the overflow yet.


edit:
Just noticed your second post.
I have some of that "pond piping", but rather go for solid piping to keep it tidy, if I can. Unless you have a better reason for using flexible piping...

Here is an image of the pipe work I currently have. I have longer silicone hose for the pump now, and a larger nozzle for it to attach too (the one in the image is just too small inside).



Because I have enough piping, I will be looking at passing the return water to the opposite side of the tank, the top glass has a hole in it (I assume that was it's intention anyway), so I can take the piping over the cover glass, although I am not sure if this will foul with the position I want to set my MH.

 

[john.o]

Yes you’re right it does look a lot neater to hard pipe!!!!!

The only thing I would say though is if you ever need to remove the bulk head for any reason {to clean and re seal a leak ect} then you’re going to have to try to hacksaw the pipe without stress cracking the tank where the bulk head is { which I have seen happen } It was not good £200 worth of tank in the bin, so soft pipe and hose tail is now my prefer method
Regards john,o

 

[drsquirrel]

Have you considered using any "push fit" style connectors?


I still need to get pre filter material for in the sump... I'm not sure what I will use yet.

 

[Anguilla82]

I still need to get pre filter material for in the sump... I'm not sure what I will use yet.

I wouldn't waste your money buying specific pre filter stuff like 'poly filter'.
just go to your LFS and get one of the filter mats they use for huge koi filters. cut this down to size.
a large mat (6'x3') is around £10 round my way. I split this in two to get twice as much out of it.
just replace it regularly to prevent a nitrate factory.

 

[drsquirrel]

No worries, that's the kind of stuff I am talking about anyway.


I went to a large DIY store the other day and took my 45deg elbow with me. Went to the 32mm tubing and it didn't fit (neither did any other sizes). My dad took my other elbow piece to a small building suppliers and they couldn't find anything to fit either. Is there something I'm obviously missing here?

 

[Anguilla82]

some piping is in metric, others in imperial.

mine from ND aquatics is all on odd size so can't get bits in B&Q etc.
have to get all mine thru aquatics places notably Coral Culture.