Fins melting away

Valanti

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Hi all,
I don't know what else to do. I have a 150 gal tank that's been running for many years now. I don't know the parameters. I have a Red Severm as big as your hand that his fins and tail just melt away. His partner doesnt have these symptoms. There are 11 fish in this tank, raised from babies, including a 14 inch red tail catfish He is the only fish in the tank that has this condition. His tail was first, now mostly gone, and I tried Malifix, which seemed to slow the problem, but now his left and right fins and all fins generally are still melting off. What else should I try?
 
Hi all,
I don't know what else to do. I have a 150 gal tank that's been running for many years now. I don't know the parameters. I have a Red Severm as big as your hand that his fins and tail just melt away. His partner doesnt have these symptoms. There are 11 fish in this tank, raised from babies, including a 14 inch red tail catfish He is the only fish in the tank that has this condition. His tail was first, now mostly gone, and I tried Malifix, which seemed to slow the problem, but now his left and right fins and all fins generally are still melting off. What else should I try?
First we need water parameters to determine what's going on (and I'll leave what to do next to someone more experienced).

I'd also suggest a large water change and vacuum the gravel. Another mod was also saying wipe down the glass incase there is any biofilm holding stuff that could be affecting your fish.
 
Yes please to letting us know parameters, and some photos of the fish as well, please!
 
Yes please to letting us know parameters, and some photos of the fish as well, please!
I dusted off the ol test kit last night and checked things out. Everything looks ok except the Nitrates. PH 6.8, 0 Amonia, 0 Nitrites. The tank runs warm about 80 degres. It is time to clean it. I'll get the sump filters this time too.
Regular maintenance (about once a week) includes glass clean everytime and gravel cleaning about every other week. 60 gallon water change as that's as big as my drum is. This has been routine since the tank was setup. This poor guys fins didn't just start melting away, it's been over months and I didn't want to throw meds in it because it is the only fish affected in the entire tank. I'll get a pic when the lights come on. Thanks for the help!
 
I dusted off the ol test kit last night and checked things out. Everything looks ok except the Nitrates. PH 6.8, 0 Amonia, 0 Nitrites. The tank runs warm about 80 degres. It is time to clean it. I'll get the sump filters this time too.
Regular maintenance (about once a week) includes glass clean everytime and gravel cleaning about every other week. 60 gallon water change as that's as big as my drum is. This has been routine since the tank was setup. This poor guys fins didn't just start melting away, it's been over months and I didn't want to throw meds in it because it is the only fish affected in the entire tank. I'll get a pic when the lights come on. Thanks for the help!
 

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Here is his mate, he used to look like her.
 

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BASIC FIRST AID FOR FISH
Test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week or until the problem is identified. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens so any medication (if needed) will work more effectively on the fish.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Post clear pictures and video of the fish so we can check them for diseases.

---------------------

NITRATES
If you have high nitrates, and I expect you do with a 14 inch redtail catfish and 10 other fish in a 6ft tank, your cichlids are at risk of developing hole in the head disease, as well as various other health issues. You need to keep nitrates as close to 0ppm as possible, and under 20ppm at all times.

Gravel should be cleaned every time you do a water change.

Established Filters should be cleaned at least once a month.

I'm not sure how old the redtail catfish is, but under good conditions they can grow to 18 inches long in 6 months. Over time they can reach 3-5 feet long, females being bigger than males. I am hoping you have a pond or something to house the fish in when it gets bigger.

---------------------

FIN ROT
Fin rot is caused by poor water quality that damages the tissue and allows harmful bacteria into the wounds, where more damage occurs. Treatment is normally clean water and salt. Your severum has an advanced case and salt might not be enough. If salt doesn't help within a few days, you will need a broad spectrum medication that treats fungus and bacteria (preferably not an antibiotic).

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for at least one, preferably two weeks.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the aquarium.

If your water holding tank only holds 40% of the big tank's volume, do the 75% water change and use the water that is in the 60 gallon tank to partially fill the main tank, then refill the 60 gallon, add dechlorinater, aerate for 30 minutes, then finish filling the main tank.

Add some salt, (see directions below). For a big tank getting daily water changes, it is probably cheaper to visit a hardware store or swimming pool shop and buy a 10-20kg (22-44 pound) bag of pool salt. Use the salt for at least one (preferably two) week and see how the fish are doing. If the fins don't appear any better after a few days, post more pictures. If it isn't noticeably better after a week, use a broad spectrum medication.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish. You will have to add enough salt to treat the 60 gallon holding tank and aerate it for 30 minutes before using that water in the main tank.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
Last edited:
BASIC FIRST AID FOR FISH
Test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week or until the problem is identified. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use the media. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens so any medication (if needed) will work more effectively on the fish.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration to maximise the dissolved oxygen in the water.

Post clear pictures and video of the fish so we can check them for diseases.

---------------------

NITRATES
If you have high nitrates, and I expect you do with a 14 inch redtail catfish and 10 other fish in a 6ft tank, your cichlids are at risk of developing hole in the head disease, as well as various other health issues. You need to keep nitrates as close to 0ppm as possible, and under 20ppm at all times.

Gravel should be cleaned every time you do a water change.

Established Filters should be cleaned at least once a month.

I'm not sure how old the redtail catfish is, but under good conditions they can grow to 18 inches long in 6 months. Over time they can reach 3-5 feet long, females being bigger than males. I am hoping you have a pond or something to house the fish in when it gets bigger.

---------------------

FIN ROT
Fin rot is caused by poor water quality that damages the tissue and allows harmful bacteria into the wounds, where more damage occurs. Treatment is normally clean water and salt. Your severum has an advanced case and salt might not be enough. If salt doesn't help within a few days, you will need a broad spectrum medication that treats fungus and bacteria (preferably not an antibiotic).

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for at least one, preferably two weeks.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the aquarium.

If your water holding tank only holds 40% of the big tank's volume, do the 75% water change and use the water that is in the 60 gallon tank to partially fill the main tank, then refill the 60 gallon, add dechlorinater, aerate for 30 minutes, then finish filling the main tank.

Add some salt, (see directions below). For a big tank getting daily water changes, it is probably cheaper to visit a hardware store or swimming pool shop and buy a 10-20kg (22-44 pound) bag of pool salt. Use the salt for at least one (preferably two) week and see how the fish are doing. If the fins don't appear any better after a few days, post more pictures. If it isn't noticeably better after a week, use a broad spectrum medication.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish. You will have to add enough salt to treat the 60 gallon holding tank and aerate it for 30 minutes before using that water in the main tank.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
Wow, thanks!
I've used salt before. I didn't think about it as it's been so long that any medication has been used in this tank. It also used to have a can filter, but it went bad long ago.
So today is big tank clean out. I gotta get some de-chlorinator and get busy. Cleaning the sump and tank. This conversation has made me think of getting another canister filter running, opinions on that?
 
Hope it all goes well. A quarantine/hospital tank is always a good idea as you can treat a clean tank with 1 fish.
 
I bite the bullet on an FX4, the tank has never looked clearer after all the cleaning. The one thing I realized is I never really changed enough water with the water changes. 60 gal at a time was simply not ample to remove the toxins.
I salted this tank to 1 tbsn/5 gal and although it's hard to tell with all his fins, I can see improvement in his tail as there has been growth and I don't see fins melting off. This is fantastic!
My question now for you good folks on this forum who may have saved this fishes life is: should I keep the salt at 1/5 or increase the level to the 2/5 for the next couple of weeks?
 
It's been 3 weeks of salting the tank here. The good news is that all his fins are looking better and I thought he was on the mend, but his behavior changed a couple days ago and he went to the bottom of the tank and hasn't eaten. I would hospital tank him but I don't know what do use to help him now. Any advice?
 
Stop using salt. 2 weeks of salt is normally sufficient to let the damaged fins heal. Once they have healed (not fully grown back, just healed) the bacteria and fungus can't get into the tissue to infect it.

What does the fish's poop look like?
If it has stringy white poop, see following link for info.

Make sure the other fish aren't picking on it.

Offer it some live food like brineshrimp.
 

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