Finding the right tank mates
- Thread starter 1L19
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Agree. Once parameters are out of the way, which includes temperature and you are close to issues here too, then the activity level of each species must be considered. Sedate [= non-active swimmers] fish like gourami, angelfish, discus, and some others should not have active tankmates. This too has varying definitions, but very generally all danios and barbs are relatively active, most rasboras are not active and some are rather sedate, and among the characins many are sedate with some active species.
I think I agree as well. So.. if you don't mind doing a numbers check I would be grateful. I checked AQAdvisor but I know calculators should be verified by knowledgeable folks so here we go. BTW I'm taking my Aquatop 300CF back and will probably go with a Fluval 407. Byron should I be concerned about the Tetras and the Gourami as far as activity? I'm assuming the Juliis aren't an issue as they'll be at the bottom. Thank you!
20x Neon Tetras
20x Harlequin Rasboras
10x Julii Corys
1x Honey Gourami
From what I read the rasboras benefit from a larger school than the tetras so if it's best that I drop my numbers I can do that no problem.
Thank you!
Neon tetras are not active per say, and they remain in the lower half of the tank. Rasboras, the species here at least, are very sedate and remain (unless stressed) basically mid-tank. The gourami are mid to upper level, basically surface fish. Need floating plants (and I don't mean duckweed!). Corydoras are active, but not in the same sense as danios and most barbs.
Numbers of a species. Another very misunderstood but crucial factor. Some call tetras, rasboras, danios, barbs, cories, rainbowfish, and a few other groups schooling fish; I prefer shoaling as it does not carry the technical aspects of "schooling" which apply almost (but not totally!) to many marine fishes like herring. Freshwater species that "shoal" are, for me, those that live in large groups, and this is a significant requirement--a group. With most species, you can't really have too many (so far as the number itself is concerned, obviously tank space in even the largest home aquarium will eventually limit numbers)--but you can have too few and the fish are always harmed as a result. Scientific studies have proven that a group of ten of a species will be in better health, and have a significantly better and "easier" life, that will a group of five or six, or three. Aggression is heightened with groups less than ten [some species, such as Tiger Barb for example, need around 15 to avoid real issues]. The fish in these small groups also show a serious latency to feed. They also are more prone to sudden darting at the slightest provocation. These three factors clearly indicate that numbers is a serious issue for the fish.
It all comes back, again, to the genetics of each individual species. The fish "expect" to be in a group, because evolution has programmed this into their DNA, and when they are not, it has negative consequences. At the very least, increased stress. And considering that 90% of all disease in aquarium fish is brought on by stress, this should be a concern of every aquarist. A group of 15 tetras will inevitably be healthier, less stressed, more "normal" in their activities, than will a group of six--all else being equal. There are several other factors that affect fish health too. The green citation in my signature says it all.
Numbers of a species. Another very misunderstood but crucial factor. Some call tetras, rasboras, danios, barbs, cories, rainbowfish, and a few other groups schooling fish; I prefer shoaling as it does not carry the technical aspects of "schooling" which apply almost (but not totally!) to many marine fishes like herring. Freshwater species that "shoal" are, for me, those that live in large groups, and this is a significant requirement--a group. With most species, you can't really have too many (so far as the number itself is concerned, obviously tank space in even the largest home aquarium will eventually limit numbers)--but you can have too few and the fish are always harmed as a result. Scientific studies have proven that a group of ten of a species will be in better health, and have a significantly better and "easier" life, that will a group of five or six, or three. Aggression is heightened with groups less than ten [some species, such as Tiger Barb for example, need around 15 to avoid real issues]. The fish in these small groups also show a serious latency to feed. They also are more prone to sudden darting at the slightest provocation. These three factors clearly indicate that numbers is a serious issue for the fish.
It all comes back, again, to the genetics of each individual species. The fish "expect" to be in a group, because evolution has programmed this into their DNA, and when they are not, it has negative consequences. At the very least, increased stress. And considering that 90% of all disease in aquarium fish is brought on by stress, this should be a concern of every aquarist. A group of 15 tetras will inevitably be healthier, less stressed, more "normal" in their activities, than will a group of six--all else being equal. There are several other factors that affect fish health too. The green citation in my signature says it all.
I plan on having no live plants in my tank only silk. If floating plants are good for the gourami is that just for shade/cover or would it be something that "dangles" which might give a spot to hide? I've seen some artificial foam floating lotus leaves and yes even artificial duckweed.
I plan on having no live plants in my tank only silk. If floating plants are good for the gourami is that just for shade/cover or would it be something that "dangles" which might give a spot to hide? I've seen some artificial foam floating lotus leaves and yes even artificial duckweed.
Gourami spend their time at or close to the surface. They browse among floating plants/vegetation for food. They also use them to build bubble nests. Floating plants/vegetation is present in all gourami habitats. There is also of course the shade factor. I've not seen the artificial floating plants, but I would just say that it is not an aesthetic issue here, but a factor of their habitat that they expect and thus need. Back to that again.
Easy enough I'll just leave em off the list. Thank you sir, once again, for helping me to make an easy decision.
OK, you're welcome. I would say now that this is where the shade aspect of floating plants comes in, and the artificial may well serve the purpose. Forest fish do not appreciate overhead light. Over some 30 years of keeping fish I have noticed that the most colourful and active groups of shoaling fish are those with thick floating plant cover. When I thin out the floaters, the fish always react for several days by moving lower in the aquarium. It is no coincidence. Of course, with no live plants, you do have the benefit of having less intense light, and that will improve the health of the fish guaranteed.
I have an article on the effects of light, on the blog cited earlier.
Roger that on the light. Much less. In my search for silk plants I found this which might do nicely for the top.
Bamboo | Marineland®
www.marineland.com
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