Fin Rot. Is It Healing Or Progressing?

In that case glad to help! :good: Here's the link http://www.angelsplu...ltersSponge.htm You just need an active filter, 2 choices, not much difference in price so I'd get the one for a buck more! $8.25 plus shipping. Just take the existing media out of your current filter and put the sponge in. You can cut it into pieces to make it fit.
 
My pleasure! :good:

I tested the water today:

Ph; holding steady at 6.6
Ammonia: 0.5ppm
NitrIte: 0.5ppm
Nitrate: 5.0ppm

So I did a large water change (approximately 95%), and added the Prime to the new water. I retested after about two hours and got:

Ph: 6.6
Ammonia: 0.25ppm
NitrIte: 0
Nitrate: 0

I tested my tap water before adding any treatment and it is 0.50ppm of ammonia. Shouldn't the Prime remove this? Since I did a large water change shouldn't the ammonia level be close to 0? Should I add more Prime when I pretreat the water? Should I add the ammonia remover to the tank tonight? I'm really sorry for all these questions but you have been the most helpful person I found on these forums.
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When you test for ammonia with an API test kit the result you get is an ammonia plus ammonium combined value. Also when using Prime with a salicylate based kit (as API and most kits are) you should take the reading right away after you do the water change for more accurate results. I recommend you get either a Seachem Ammonia Alert or a Seachem Multi Test Ammonia kit. Either will give you a true ammonia reading and not an ammonia plus ammonium reading. You can add extra Prime per the bottle instructions but until you get one of the Seachem products I mentioned you will not be getting a true ammonia only reading. What is the exact name of the ammonia remover product you mention? Don't be sorry for asking questions. That is what this forum is here for. Many of us (myself included) started out asking the same questions as you.:good:
 
When you test for ammonia with an API test kit the result you get is an ammonia plus ammonium combined value. Also when using Prime with a salicylate based kit (as API and most kits are) you should take the reading right away after you do the water change for more accurate results. I recommend you get either a Seachem Ammonia Alert or a Seachem Multi Test Ammonia kit. Either will give you a true ammonia reading and not an ammonia plus ammonium reading. You can add extra Prime per the bottle instructions but until you get one of the Seachem products I mentioned you will not be getting a true ammonia only reading. What is the exact name of the ammonia remover product you mention? Don't be sorry for asking questions. That is what this forum is here for. Many of us (myself included) started out asking the same questions as you.:good:

Ok I'll look for the Seachem ammonia test tomorrow. This is the ammonia remover I have; it's by Top Fin.

http://m.petsmart.com/mt/www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752210
 
Ok, so the Prime will do the same thing that this TopFin product is supposed to do?
 
I was under the impression that the ammonia reading will be the same regardless of what the Prime has converted to ammonium. I have 1.0 ppm ammonia in my tap and when I cycle a tank and use prime to dechlorinate my water...the test always show 1.0 ppm regardless of when I test, until the filter starts converting it.

After my filter is cycled, if I do a 50% water change with Seachem prime, I get a .50 ppm reading for ammonia, but I know that it is safe for my fish.
 
API tests total ammonia (ammonia plus ammonium) in it's results.
API.jpg


From Seachem's website: A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime®), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away. However, the best solution ;-) is to use our MultiTest: Ammonia™ kit... it uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime® or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from total ammonia (which is both the free and ionized forms of ammonia (the ionized form is not toxic).

How is .50 mg/l ammonia safe for fish?
 

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