Filter Changing Advice

davefish

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While I was doing a routine 10% water change in my tank last night I noticed that the inside of the filter was all brown and horrible-looking. It still works fine and the fish are happy so there's no emergency. I decided to look over the instructions I got with the filter to see if it had any method of cleaning this sludge off. It said I should change the filter insert every 4 weeks!

I am confused by this as I've spent a lot of time and effort growing bacteria on this filter. It's been 3 weeks since I added fish, the filter was running for a good while before that of course, and now I'm supposed to change the filter insert in a weeks time. Won't that get rid of all the bacteria on the filter? Will a clean filter be able to cope with all the fish I've got in there? Do the filter company just want you to change the insert every 4 weeks so they make more money, or is it actually necessary?

Please someone explain to me what I am supposed to do here. Thanks.
 
Firstly, what filter do you have?

Secondly, what kind of sponges does it have?

Coarse sponges can be rinsed in a bucket of tank water to clean the gunk off of them. Finer sponges tend not to be so durable, and will need replacing from time to time.

If by replacing the sponge, you are replacing 100% of the filter media, you will be losing a lot of your bacteria, although there will still be some contained within the tank, so it will re-establish fairly quickly.
 
Thanks for the quick reply.

I have a Tetratec EasyCrystal FilterBox 300. It has a coarse filter which it calls a "BioFoam" and says I should change rarely. As well as a finer looking filter, which basically looks like a fabric bag with something inside, which it calls the "EasyCrystal FilterPack cartridge". This is what it tells me to change every 4 weeks. Finally, there are some "Bio Filter Balls" in the bottom which it says can be used repeatedly.

So does that mean I can change the "EasyCrystal FilterPack cartridge" as there will be enough bacteria left on the rest of the components to cope?

The instructions for changing the "EasyCrystal FilterPack cartridge" are literally: take it out, bin it, put new one in. There's no mention of saving any of the bacteria at all.
 
from what you've said then yeah you can bin that bit , as you're keeping quite alot of the filter media and the beneficial bacteria in the tank.
 
Thanks for the quick reply.

I have a Tetratec EasyCrystal FilterBox 300. It has a coarse filter which it calls a "BioFoam" and says I should change rarely. As well as a finer looking filter, which basically looks like a fabric bag with something inside, which it calls the "EasyCrystal FilterPack cartridge". This is what it tells me to change every 4 weeks. Finally, there are some "Bio Filter Balls" in the bottom which it says can be used repeatedly.

So does that mean I can change the "EasyCrystal FilterPack cartridge" as there will be enough bacteria left on the rest of the components to cope?

The instructions for changing the "EasyCrystal FilterPack cartridge" are literally: take it out, bin it, put new one in. There's no mention of saving any of the bacteria at all.
I may be overly cautious but I don't completely agree with the previous posters, at least not quite yet...

First of all I would get over the idea that the brown sludge is horrible. It indeed includes your hard-won bacteria and it is really perceptive that you've had the forsight to be concerned about losing those bacteria! In the hardware section of TFF there are some experienced fishkeepers with very large biofiltration who claim to have gone extremely long periods of time without having to disturb the bio portions of their filters.

That said, yours is an internal filter on a smaller tank and it will be best practice to give it frequent cleanings (not necessarily media replacements) probably monthly. The main question becomes deciding which media in the filter is truly serving as the primary bio area and never doing things to that to cause mini-cycle disruptions in your filtration process. Smaller filters like this can be deceptive I think because, since the bacteria don't know any better and anchor themselves virtually everywhere in the filter, the entire media set can be serving as the biofilter. Certainly the bioballs and the sponges are playing a significant role, but carbon is pretty good at it too, even though the carbon isn't needed.

Carbon is a leftover from the 1960's, 1970's when the common wisdom was that "aged water" was a good thing. Although there are some good things about water that has been around a while, for the most part it was a mistaken notion confusing the water age with the time it takes to cycle a filter. Aged water often became yellow and was high in organics that caused odor, thus contributing to the feeling that there was a constant need for carbon in aquarium filters.

Reading here at TFF, you will find that modern aquarists consider carbon to be a special-purpose media that is kept on the shelf but not in the filter. It is used primarily to remove medications after they are finished working, to remove excess yellow tannins from new bogwood that hasn't been boiled enough or to remove unusual odors that are unexpected and short term. Carbon only works for about 3 days, after which it is useless. Although it will harbor good bacteria, it is a poor choice for biomedia because it crumbles to dust over time and the bacteria is lost.

Carbon is still actively promoted by companies that sell a variety of supplies in the retail setting because it is a steady revenue source once a new hobbiest thinks it needs to be regularly purchased. For fish shops, supplies that are bought regularly, like carbon (and "aquarium salt" is another one) are just too good an income source to let go of, so modern information is conveniently overlooked.

So, one thing you might plan to do is to gradually (gradually because it has good bacteria!) replace your carbon section with some form of modern small ceramic pebbles or other optimized biomedia. You would just have a bag of the new media and replace a little bit of the carbon at each filter cleaning.

Now, about that cleaning: sketchy is very correct about using -tank- water. Never kill your bacteria by using tap water on it! But until your filter is quite mature (yours isn't at 3 weeks since fish) you should be very gentle about this monthly "swish out", just gently swishing or very lightly squeezing it in the bucket of tank water. You want to get rid of the excess loose debris, but you want lots of gooky black brown bacteria to remain (maybe other members would have more helpful descriptions?) That basically describes it for a sponge, and I think for a modern sponge it should be a very long time before the sponge breaks down and needs to be replaced. For the bioballs it is more of a "dunking" in tap water is how I would describe it.

I know this sounds picky, and maybe other members will give me a hard time for the description but I think better safe than sorry at first and as the months roll by and the bacteria are more and more established, your sponge squeezings can get stronger without any harm to the robust size of the remaining population.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents, brought on by what an unusually good thing to have asked before acting!

~~waterdrop~~
 
I actually had a similar concern. I have 2 filters running, which I have discussed with some people in my other thread.

One is a Hang on Back filter, which has two cartidges, a Bio-Fiber which says never to be replaced and a carbon/mechanical insert, which it says to replace.

I also have a mini-canister with Ceramic Media and another carbon/mechanical insert, which again says to replace. I figure with the mini-canister I can eventually replace the insert with some custom media. But on the Hang on Back, I hav assumed that I have enough bacteria on the Bio Fiber and in the other filter to replace the insert from time to time without too much trouble.

I also figure since I have 2 filters, If I stagger replacing the replaceable media, it would be much better. I assume I have enough bacteria in the ceramics, bio fiber and one of the two replacable media once the tank matures to quickly replace any bacteria that was on the replaceable media that I replaced... if that makes any sense.

For my next tank I am buying a freaking Fluval lol...
 
Thanks for the detailed reply waterdrop.

I suppose you are right about the brown sludge not being bad. When I turned the filter back on after the water change it belched a load of it into the tank water, which did look pretty horrible as my tank is clean. I am seriously considering not doing the first change after the advised 4 weeks as my tank is probably not mature enough to replenish the bacteria quickly.
I am interested in what you say about carbon because the filter cartridges for my filter are available with and without carbon, and I didn't really know the purpose of carbon so I wasn't sure which one to get. Sounds like there's no need to buy the "active carbon" version.

I'll have to think some more about what I plan to do long term.
 
davefish,

Had an idea here, as I think we have similar filters. If you have room in the filter, could you add the new cartidge, leave it in there for a week or so, then take out the old cartidge? This would give time for the bacteria to transfer between cartidges?

Maybe it would work.
 
davefish,

Had an idea here, as I think we have similar filters. If you have room in the filter, could you add the new cartidge, leave it in there for a week or so, then take out the old cartidge? This would give time for the bacteria to transfer between cartidges?

Maybe it would work.

That's a smart idea. Not sure there's room inside the filter - I will try. Alternatively I could put it somewhere else in the tank and somehow protect it from the fish. Thanks.
 
I'd replace the cartrideg, but not with another cartridge. I'd go with some more sponge. I never replace media in any of my tanks, as a clean is all any of it realy needs. I had a 7 year old sponge that was sold with my ld tank to a new owner, and as far as I am aware it is still going :good: the manufacturer recomended monthly replacements, but I ignored them :nod:
Sponge only needs replacing when it is falling apart. Floss only needs replacing when it if clogged. Carbon, zeolite and other chemical medias are not needed and the latter two are acctualy dangerous to a tank. All other media does not need replacing, ever, despite what manufacturers will have you belive :good:

HTH
Rabbut
 
Some filters though dont have sponge and some ca't even fit a sponge (like a HOB filter). They have framed media, which is harder to work with. I know in my Hange on back, it would be difficult to get a sponge in there without seriously impairing the flow of the filter.
 
The tetra filter here is internal though is it not? If it is internal it will have plenty of space for sponge. I'm not a HOB filter user, so I'm not formiliar with them, but if it is a internal, I would replace it with a sponge, or other media that will not require replacement, that will also harbor bacteria.

HTH
Rabbut
 
Yes, it can be very disconcerting as you gain more experience here about how filters really work and why one would want size and flexibility, to realize that you've spent money on a device that not only limits your flexibity of putting different media types in but was even designed to almost force you to buy pre-filled packets or frames of things - you begin to realize that the design was all about getting you back in to the store on a regular basis to buy things you never really needed in the first place.

Ultimately it becomes obvious why the big plain cannister filters are so superior. I believe the AquaClear brand HOBs are also notable in being a more generalized box with up and down water movement such that you can substitute in things you want.

Our most common starting point for newcomers here is the fishless cycle, but really, the choice of the filter hardware should preceed this. Its just that most have already bought this equipment before finding a place like this with all the experienced information.

~~waterdrop~~
 
True, another problem is, alot of people (like myself) by a kit for their first set up. These kits almost always come with a HOB or Undergravel filter. Unless you are going big, most new people dont even know what a canister filter is.
 
The HOB filter isn't the problem I really had with a kit, but that they come woefully underfiltered. I got one for Christmas - 30 gallon tank, with a 60 gph filter.
 

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