Faulty Juwel brace bars

Are the acrylic tanks seamlesly molded or are they glued/ sonically welded? Abbeysdad's website has a link to a youtube interview with an engaging southern California aquarium shop owner who stated in their earthquake only the acrylic tanks failed.
Don't quote me on this being fact but I THINK they can be in either format.
 
Hi folk's, new to the forums. I came here after searching/google for .......... (Faulty Juwel brace bars), mine also is failing and coming away from the top frame. I was wondering what is a good silicone for the repair job? There are so many out there, and after watching so many youtube vids, alot of the top brands I am unable to source in the UK. Thanks.
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I used this silicone on my Rio's when i repaired mine.

Just make sure whatever silicone you go for is aquarium safe 🙂
 
**** UPDATE Juwel Rio 450 Bracing Bar Failure *****

The retailer didn't want to know and said it was between me and Juwel and had nothing to do with him. At first, Juwel said there was nothing wrong but when I persisted they said they would repair my tank. They told me to send it back to the retailer's wholesaler. This shows me that they have no interest in the welfare of fish.

As outlined previously I have now brought the retailer to court here in the Republic of Ireland, in Portlaoise where I bought the tank. On hearing the evidence and seeing the photographs etc the judge ordered the retailer to give me a full refund within 14 days. The retailer was also ordered to travel the 100 miles to where I live and collect the faulty tank after I had bought a new tank to house my fish. The retailer has ignored the judge's orders and I am now escalating the case which will have further serious consequences.

Anyone thinking of buying one of these large Juwel tanks should take note of the foregoing. And be careful what they spend their money on.
 
I don't believe this is a real issue, the newer tanks are supposed to be this way. I bought a second hand Juwel rio 450 that was only a few months old and noticed that the bottom of the brace bars were not siliconed down to the glass and started to investigate. I came across this thread a while ago and it did get me worried. However it looks like on mine there has never been silicone there at all and even with the tank fully empty (I have never filled it up yet) there is a gap between the brace bars and the glass. In fact you would have to significantly bend the brace bars to get them to touch the glass. I contacted Juwel and this is what they said: The brace bar is not a structural part of the aquarium and as such you have no worries regarding the aquarium breaking. The lower bonding of the struts to the glass is no longer done in the manufacturing process. The upper frame and the struts are made of a one-piece injection moulding and are therefore still sufficiently bonded. Note the part in bold, this is exactly how mine is, the upper frame and the braces are all one piece with the bottom part nowhere near touching the glass. So clearly its not meant to be silicone sealed onto glass. I would not attempt to silicone them down myself as this surly would cause more issues especially if it then gave way with a snap. So if you are buying a brand new juwel aquarium i would not worry about this.

This is how mine's is even when empty
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More to the question am I mad to set this tank up in an upper flat in an old two stories tenement flat?
 
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More to the question am I mad to set this tank up in an upper flat in an old two stories tenement flat?

If you jump in the middle of the room and the floor feels like a trampoline.

I would be worrying a lot :)

Where I live those are pretty well made and are rock solid. The most difficult part is to make the tank perfectly level on these old floors.
 
If you jump in the middle of the room and the floor feels like a trampoline.

I would be worrying a lot :)

Where I live those are pretty well made and are rock solid. The most difficult part is to make the tank perfectly level on these old floors.
If just setting up a single tank this would not be a wanted item due to cost. However, if leveling in two aspects is often needed, a cross test level is a must. These are more used in machining but can be used in any such application. Just put in the bottom of an empty tank and level in both directions at the same time. When I worked as a machinist this was an essential tool and Starrett is considered one of the best measuring tool manufacturers in the world. Sometimes you get what you pay for and Starett is the best.

 
If just setting up a single tank this would not be a wanted item due to cost. However, if leveling in two aspects is often needed, a cross test level is a must. These are more used in machining but can be used in any such application. Just put in the bottom of an empty tank and level in both directions at the same time. When I worked as a machinist this was an essential tool and Starrett is considered one of the best measuring tool manufacturers in the world. Sometimes you get what you pay for and Starett is the best.


I use these, one at each corner of the tank.

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That looks pretty cool. To be honest I don't think I've seen this kind of level. :)

They are 50$ a piece :mad: We use them to install antenna towers and even the electronic stuff is no match compared.
 
If you jump in the middle of the room and the floor feels like a trampoline.

I would be worrying a lot :)

Where I live those are pretty well made and are rock solid. The most difficult part is to make the tank perfectly level on these old floors.
Yeah it is rock solid, I had a red sea reefer 350 setup for 3 years and it was fine but this is a size up. The floor is level but it slopes on one side where the tank will go. So the left hand side needs to be on shims of about 1.2cm to make it level. Also the floor sags in towards the middle of the room but no bounce. The tank is also against a supporting wall where there is less sag. I might get a large 6ft bit of 25mm marine plywood and place the tank on that to spread the weight over more joists. I more worry about the tank bursting or leaking and totally destroying both flats below me. Not sure how a uk insurance company would deal with that.
 
Yeah it is rock solid, I had a red sea reefer 350 setup for 3 years and it was fine but this is a size up. The floor is level but it slopes on one side where the tank will go. So the left hand side needs to be on shims of about 1.2cm to make it level. Also the floor sags in towards the middle of the room but no bounce. The tank is also against a supporting wall where there is less sag. I might get a large 6ft bit of 25mm marine plywood and place the tank on that to spread the weight over more joists. I more worry about the tank bursting or leaking and totally destroying both flats below me. Not sure how a uk insurance company would deal with that.

As long as the floor is not springing when you walk.. That will destroy any seals with time.

I installed tanks that changed the "dynamics" of a whole home, and it wasn't that big.

It really depends on "what" you are in reality seating on and your local construction code.

But a 120 gallons on 6 inch floor studs. And you might wonder why some doors are not working as good as before after a while.

I installed a 75 gallons in the living room of a not that old house around 2006, following a support wall with 12 inch thick floor joist, at 16 inch spacing.

And that house cracked for a good 4 months.

Loll.
 

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