Eheim 2213 Questions-Please Help!

[Bashy]

Hi all,

I'm in the process of adding a Eheim 2213 External filter to my RIO 125 alongside the internal that came with the set up.
I have some questions:

1. Thanks to Karin, I have been following the instructions on a link supplied (http/laurabeestable.blogspot.com/2007/07/eheim-classic-2215-set-up-for-dummies.html)..totally invaluable BTW. In these instructions it mentions 'cycling' using a bucket. Does this mean I have to leave it attatched to a bucket for a while? Should I syphon a bucket of water from my tank and use this to prime the filter?

2.I'm in the process of cutting the tubing to fit and have had the filter in situ to get measurements. Where the output tubing comes out of the filter, it's meant to go into a rigid tubing in the shape of a J, is this needed? Or can I just connect tubing straight to the spray bar? Can't seem to get the J bar fitted so it's all lined up correct in the tank (makes the spray bar not horizontal).

3. After much deliberation and advice on this forum, I have decided to position the spray bar from back to front on the left hand side (opposite side to internal filter and above intake). The bar is an inch or 2 too long for the tank. Can I cut this down using a junior hacksaw? or will it make the spray bar innefective because it's shorter?

4. For priming this filter, I'm confused...do I have to go through this everytime the filter is unplugged? It seems like a real pain in the ar**.

5. The instructions that came with the filter (for what they're worth) says when attaching the filter to the aquarium, the filter must have no water in it. So what do I do once I've primed it using the instructions from the link above? The link is great, but doesn't go further than priming the filter...I'm a total beginner, and need some help once that's all done. Can anyone give me a step by step with what to do next?

6. Also, in the instructions, the spray bar is facing downward...but surely the spray needs to come out horixontally to create jets along the surface?

7. Lastly, this filter came with a canister that has some hula hoop ceramic rings, a blue sponge, some small balls (more bio stuff I think), a carbon sponge and a white sponge. I've seen on the box, that there is also another set for the 2213 of just sponges. My internal has six sponges and just 1 bio ceramic rings compartment. Is the one I've got the better one (More bio than sponges)? Will I need to change this in the future for the spongey one?

Thanks for reading my thread. All help is much appreciated.

Cheers

 

[raptorrex]

Hi all,

I'm in the process of adding a Eheim 2213 External filter to my RIO 125 alongside the internal that came with the set up.
I have some questions:

1. Thanks to Karin, I have been following the instructions on a link supplied (http/laurabeestable.blogspot.com/2007/07/eheim-classic-2215-set-up-for-dummies.html)..totally invaluable BTW. In these instructions it mentions 'cycling' using a bucket. Does this mean I have to leave it attatched to a bucket for a while? Should I syphon a bucket of water from my tank and use this to prime the filter?

2.I'm in the process of cutting the tubing to fit and have had the filter in situ to get measurements. Where the output tubing comes out of the filter, it's meant to go into a rigid tubing in the shape of a J, is this needed? Or can I just connect tubing straight to the spray bar? Can't seem to get the J bar fitted so it's all lined up correct in the tank (makes the spray bar not horizontal).

3. After much deliberation and advice on this forum, I have decided to position the spray bar from back to front on the left hand side (opposite side to internal filter and above intake). The bar is an inch or 2 too long for the tank. Can I cut this down using a junior hacksaw? or will it make the spray bar innefective because it's shorter?

4. For priming this filter, I'm confused...do I have to go through this everytime the filter is unplugged? It seems like a real pain in the ar**.

5. The instructions that came with the filter (for what they're worth) says when attaching the filter to the aquarium, the filter must have no water in it. So what do I do once I've primed it using the instructions from the link above? The link is great, but doesn't go further than priming the filter...I'm a total beginner, and need some help once that's all done. Can anyone give me a step by step with what to do next?

6. Also, in the instructions, the spray bar is facing downward...but surely the spray needs to come out horixontally to create jets along the surface?

7. Lastly, this filter came with a canister that has some hula hoop ceramic rings, a blue sponge, some small balls (more bio stuff I think), a carbon sponge and a white sponge. I've seen on the box, that there is also another set for the 2213 of just sponges. My internal has six sponges and just 1 bio ceramic rings compartment. Is the one I've got the better one (More bio than sponges)? Will I need to change this in the future for the spongey one?

Thanks for reading my thread. All help is much appreciated.

Cheers

ok, from the top:
1, aint got any idea what they are talking about. you cycle a filter whilst its in the same position and with the same connections, it will run when cycled.
2, yes you can replace the "crook", with the spray bar.
3, yes you can cut it no problem.
4, yes the filter need priming every time you disconnect it. though not if its just switched off.
5, probably more to do with how heavy it is, when full of water. but i find it best to fill the filter, prior to reconnection.
6, you can place the spray bar how you wish, if you use the internal to cause surface disruption. i feel the picture is not meant to be take literally.
7, stick with the media you have. sponge and multi media filtration are different in their requirements. though ultimately they do the same job (processing ammonia)
oh yeah, remove the carbon and get some more "balls" to replace it with.

 

[Bashy]

Cheers raptorexx. The filter was supplied with hose taps, does this mean I don't have to prime it when uplugged?

 

[Bashy]

Just another quick question. Once I install this eheim 2213 alongside my Juwel Bioflow 3.0 (internal in RIO 125), will my internal filter suffer from effectivness whilst the eheim is cycling?
At the minute, my internal is doing great and keeping both Ammonia and nitrite to pretty much 0 every time I do a test (every other day), wouldn't want it to go downhill.
BTW, I've been buying new fish every fortnight and now currently have 5x Black ruby barbs, 3x Swordtails and 5x Guppies.
Was hoping to get another installment of fish either this Friday or next Friday according to test results on Thursday (Water change day).
Test results tonight:
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 20ppm

Cheers

 

[raptorrex]

Cheers raptorexx. The filter was supplied with hose taps, does this mean I don't have to prime it when uplugged?

well yes. as the filter itself will be empty. you need to prime it to fill the system. but, as time goes on, you will develop your own system. I could if you wish, do a run-down of my system. this would not be the "definitive" system. just how i, personally, do it.

Just another quick question. Once I install this eheim 2213 alongside my Juwel Bioflow 3.0 (internal in RIO 125), will my internal filter suffer from effectivness whilst the eheim is cycling?
At the minute, my internal is doing great and keeping both Ammonia and nitrite to pretty much 0 every time I do a test (every other day), wouldn't want it to go downhill.
BTW, I've been buying new fish every fortnight and now currently have 5x Black ruby barbs, 3x Swordtails and 5x Guppies.
Was hoping to get another installment of fish either this Friday or next Friday according to test results on Thursday (Water change day).
Test results tonight:
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 20ppm

Cheers

you should get no drop in effectiveness, from your internal.

 

[Bashy]

yes please Raptorex

 

[waterdrop]

Raptor will probably go into more detail for you (I hope he does, he's good.. one of the guys I learned a lot of good things from) but let me mention a couple of thoughts:

One of the first goals in priming is obviously to get the filter box full of water. Most commonly if it's not the very first time, you still have water filling the intake tube because you turned off the tap where it enters the filter before you cleaned the filter. After you reconnect the tubes and open both taps, the tank water will come down the intake tube and fill the filter box, using siphon action.

So my first comment is that many people are too impatient with this step. It works better if you get it going and then go off to have a cup of tea or such. Let the box have plenty of time for the water to fill in and begin pushing air bubbles out of the media.

Secondly, you will actually plug in the pump and perform whatever priming action you are going to take to assist the little impeller and that initial push of the heavy water up and into the tank. Filters can be very different in how you do this (under good conditions many can auto-prime themselves, some have mechanisms for you to hand pump by pushing something on the filter box, many old-timers are adept at a quick suck of the output pipe I suppose) but one way to do it with the older, simpler eheims is to use a suction bulb and often this is most easily done on the end of the tube with just the spraybar detached (a suction bulb has a one way valve not allowing air to get back in after your hand action has sucked it out of the tube.) Priming should be done in one smooth flow right after or in conjunction with plugging in the pump (you don't need to move so fast that you break something but you don't want your pump going without water moving.) As Raptor has said, eventually it's your own procedure, your own little dance.

So my second comment is that right after you successfully prime it and water is now moving out and back in to the tank, your job is not necessarily over. The media will probably have air bubbles in it. Now you can sometimes just leave things and these will eventually burp their way out of the system, but if you are not going to be there you don't know whether you might get enough bubbles to stop your impeller (and yes, this quite commonly happens!) So another thing you can do is to very gently lift your filter box give it some very small vibrational shakes, moving it at slight tilts, at angles just off of straight up. The reason I say very small is that if you shake too much you might get so many bubbles that the impeller will stop and you'll have to go back up top and re-prime to get it flowing again. So little shakes with tiny little showers of bubbles coming out the spraybar at intervals is the better approach.

OK, so I've left out major steps you might need I suppose, and not commented relative to your specific Eheim model but I just wanted to embellish on those two aspects.

~~waterdrop~~

 

[karin]

Just a few more notes...

When I'm ready to do an internal clean, I shut off both hose valves, then disconnect, do my clean, fill filter 1/2 way with water and reconnect and open the valve, then when filled plug it in. It will make noise because of those trapped air bubbles so I give a little shake or rock it to get some air release. Then I check everything out to make certain there are no leaks.

Sometimes I get a bit of leakage where the hoses connect at those shut off valves. Usually a little tightening solves the problem or I uses some silicon jellie for plumbing. I put this on the O-rings, the little black rubber washers if you will.

I have the spray bar horizontal to disturb the surface.

I use quite a bit of bio balls and ceramic noodles and then two blue sponges. This is great for biofiltering. On my 60 gallon I found that the 2215 wasn't enough to do the mechanical filtering, getting stuff that I can see out of the water. So I also run an aquaclear 70 off the back.

Cheers.... oh and I"m not certain what the cycling means either. Maybe just about being aware that you have to work to get the biofilter bacteria up and running in the eheim, and that takes running your two filters side by side or putting the media from your other filter in the eheim.

 

[Bashy]

This all just seems like a hassle. I didn't have any of this with my internal filter that came with the RIO. But I thought it sounded like a hassle to do a water change before I'd done a couple, now I find it no problem. I suppose (and hope) that I'll get used to it.
Thanks everyone for all your help. I plan setting this up tomorrow on my afternoon off (but the wifes leaving me with the kids), so hopefully you won't hear from me on this subject again, but don't be surprised If I get stuck again...sorry in advance

BTW, the little tapping to get the 'burps' out is very familiar, my youngest is 6 months

 

[raptorrex]

yes please Raptorex

we, i shut the taps off. i then remove the filter to the work area (posh name for kitchen). i wont go into the cleaning now.. so, lets assume i've cleaned the filter. i then filter the water, this was the water the filter contained when i removed it, through filter floss. as i do this i pour it back into the filter. when the filter is full to brimming, i fit the lid. then, with the bottom tap shut, i top off the filter and tubes. after locking the top tap. i take the filter back to the tank. having reconnected the tubes, i then turn on the taps. just to make sure, i give a bit of a suck on the outlet tube. this ensures there is no air in the tubes (though as WD says, there will be some air in the system. but, my way, not that much) then i switch on the filter, at the mains. and, usually, its up and running again. this may not work for everyone. and some will want to fill the filter with tank water. either prior to reconnection, or by priming the book way.
i honestly never have leaks. though our cat has learnt to swim, in the kitchen, whilst i am doing it. lol.

lol, i think i will leave WD with the why, explanation. this is just how!

 

[raptorrex]

This all just seems like a hassle. I didn't have any of this with my internal filter that came with the RIO. But I thought it sounded like a hassle to do a water change before I'd done a couple, now I find it no problem. I suppose (and hope) that I'll get used to it.
Thanks everyone for all your help. I plan setting this up tomorrow on my afternoon off (but the wifes leaving me with the kids), so hopefully you won't hear from me on this subject again, but don't be surprised If I get stuck again...sorry in advance

BTW, the little tapping to get the 'burps' out is very familiar, my youngest is 6 months

yeah, though very good filters, this type of eheim, is a very old design. but, once you "get it". its not a problem. and remember, you dont clean an external with, anything, like the regularity you do an internal. one of mine, on my main tank, is cleaned every 9-11 months. the other gets it every 6 months. so, really, its not that much extra work.

 

[Bashy]

just another quick question. Do I not have to unplug this everytime I do a water change?
At the moment, I switch off the plug board which houses the plugs for Lights, heater and filter (Internal) 20 mins before I do a water change, then switch back on after water change complete. Was intending to plug in the eheim in the same plug board and doing the same thing every water change. Does this mean if I did this, I'd need to prime this everytime?
If I didn't unlug it, surely it would still jet out water from the spray bar whilst I'm doing the water change??

 

[Bashy]

yes please Raptorex

just to make sure, i give a bit of a suck on the outlet tube. this ensures there is no air in the tubes

Raptorrex, isn't the outlet pipe connected to the filter half of the hose tap? Do I suck on that. If it's once the hose tap is back on, then isn't the outlet then connected to the J pipe and then the spray bar?
I'm still a bit confused? It's a shame none of you live in South East Essex ;-)

 

[karin]

just another quick question. Do I not have to unplug this everytime I do a water change?
At the moment, I switch off the plug board which houses the plugs for Lights, heater and filter (Internal) 20 mins before I do a water change, then switch back on after water change complete. Was intending to plug in the eheim in the same plug board and doing the same thing every water change. Does this mean if I did this, I'd need to prime this everytime?
If I didn't unlug it, surely it would still jet out water from the spray bar whilst I'm doing the water change??

You don't have to turn it off if you don't expose the intake to air. My intake is 10-12 inches down so I can do a 50% (or more) water change without turning off the filter. You just don't want the intake to go dry so to speak.

 

[Bashy]

just another quick question. Do I not have to unplug this everytime I do a water change?
At the moment, I switch off the plug board which houses the plugs for Lights, heater and filter (Internal) 20 mins before I do a water change, then switch back on after water change complete. Was intending to plug in the eheim in the same plug board and doing the same thing every water change. Does this mean if I did this, I'd need to prime this everytime?
If I didn't unlug it, surely it would still jet out water from the spray bar whilst I'm doing the water change??

You don't have to turn it off if you don't expose the intake to air. My intake is 10-12 inches down so I can do a 50% (or more) water change without turning off the filter. You just don't want the intake to go dry so to speak.

but then doesn't the spray bar still have water jetting out?