Dwarf cichlid recommendation

[DonC]

Hey guys I am looking for a colorful dwarf cichlid pair that is energetic and not shy For a 20 gallon high something that I don’t currently have Which are A. Borelli, A. agasizzi, Bolivian ram, German ram, smiling cichlid, flag, African butterfly And kribs.
My parameters are:
ph 7.0
Gh 12
Thanks in advance

 

[Wills]

Hey guys I am looking for a colorful dwarf cichlid pair that is energetic and not shy For a 20 gallon high something that I don’t currently have Which are A. Borelli, A. agasizzi, Bolivian ram, German ram, smiling cichlid, flag, African butterfly And kribs.
My parameters are:
ph 7.0
Gh 12
Thanks in advance

Are all of those fish in the 20g already or do you have other tanks?

 

[CaptainBarnicles]

I'm going to assume you don't have all of that in the same tank there are many Apisto varieties you could choose from

 

[GaryE]

If you already keeping dwarfs and have the eight different tanks a person would need for those fish (if you use 20s), then you have enough knowledge to do your own research.
I don't know if you need to rewrite your question more clearly, or if you are trolling for reactions from aquarists who look before they leap and care about their fish. It's time for a reset on the question!

 

[DonC]

I'm going to assume you don't have all of that in the same tank there are many Apisto varieties you could choose from

Yes they are in other tanks and the 20g will be dedicated to just the pair.
I love Apisto’s but the ones I have tend to be shy not spending as much time out and about like my flag cichlids.

 

[Wills]

How about going for something a bit different to your other fish and have a pair or trio of some shell dwellers? Similis, Multis or Ocellatus, maybe Sumbu Shell, would be great in a 20, they wont make use of the height but something different to what else you have.

 

[DonC]

How about going for something a bit different to your other fish and have a pair or trio of some shell dwellers? Similis, Multis or Ocellatus, maybe Sumbu Shell, would be great in a 20, they wont make use of the height but something different to what else you have.

 

[DonC]

 

[Back in the fold]

I like Convict cichlids.

 

[GaryE]

@Wills has suggested great African fish for hard water, and @Back in the fold has North/Central Americans with the same need for minerals. If you have Apistos, you probably have soft water.

All dwarf Cichlids will be shy. Something that size that ran around saying 'look at me' in their habitat would be on someone's menu in minutes.

The best, in my opinion?
Western African Pelvicachromis kribensis. They aren't kribs (P pulcher) but a smaller, more colourful fish. There was a misidentification 80 years ago.
Apistogramma veijita, hongsloi or macmasteri;
A cacatuoides;
Nannacara anomala;
Nanochromis - any of them;
Dicrossus filamentosus - the lyretail checkerboard Cichlid ( a fantastic little cichlid from SA that will show in groups of 6, and is inexpensive when you can find it).

 

[Wills]

@Wills has suggested great African fish for hard water, and @Back in the fold has North/Central Americans with the same need for minerals. If you have Apistos, you probably have soft water.

All dwarf Cichlids will be shy. Something that size that ran around saying 'look at me' in their habitat would be on someone's menu in minutes.

The best, in my opinion?
Western African Pelvicachromis kribensis. They aren't kribs (P pulcher) but a smaller, more colourful fish. There was a misidentification 80 years ago.
Apistogramma veijita, hongsloi or macmasteri;
A cacatuoides;
Nannacara anomala;
Nanochromis - any of them;
Dicrossus filamentosus - the lyretail checkerboard Cichlid ( a fantastic little cichlid from SA that will show in groups of 6, and is inexpensive when you can find it).

Op said gh of 12 so wouldn’t be hard to get up a bit with coral sand and a buffer for tap water.

 

[DonC]

@Wills has suggested great African fish for hard water, and @Back in the fold has North/Central Americans with the same need for minerals. If you have Apistos, you probably have soft water.

All dwarf Cichlids will be shy. Something that size that ran around saying 'look at me' in their habitat would be on someone's menu in minutes.

The best, in my opinion?
Western African Pelvicachromis kribensis. They aren't kribs (P pulcher) but a smaller, more colourful fish. There was a misidentification 80 years ago.
Apistogramma veijita, hongsloi or macmasteri;
A cacatuoides;
Nannacara anomala;
Nanochromis - any of them;
Dicrossus filamentosus - the lyretail checkerboard Cichlid ( a fantastic little cichlid from SA that will show in groups of 6, and is inexpensive when you can find it).

Thank you so much for all the info.
Now we’re taking

 

[TropicalBarnacle]

Hello - I just added 2 Borelli Cichlids a couple days ago to my 50 gallon tank.

Current tank mates:
12 neon tetra
6 ember tetra
3 histream loach

I believe both Borelli's are males. One of them is larger and keeps chasing the other one, preventing the other one from eating. The aggressor leaves the other tank mates alone and only bullies the smaller Borelli.

What can I do to curb the aggression? The tank is moderately planted with lots of caves, but the aggressor chases the other one all around the entire tank. Will adding a couple more Borelli's help? I believe my LFS only stocks males

 

[Mr Limpet]

I highly recommend Dicrossus maculatus, the Spade-tailed Checkerboard Cichlid, if you’re able to get a hold of them. They’re very inquisitive and are always out and about exploring their surroundings. I kept and bred mine in a 20 high, although I did have to remove the fry to another tank in order to grow them out.

 

[Byron]

What can I do to curb the aggression? The tank is moderately planted with lots of caves, but the aggressor chases the other one all around the entire tank. Will adding a couple more Borelli's help? I believe my LFS only stocks males

No, adding more will not help. And given what you describe, they should be separated ASAP or the loser will soon be dead.

We frequently read of having caves, plants, whatever to break up the sight, but that rarely solves the problem. Fish communicate via chemical pheromones and this alone can be highly stressful to a fish that factually is not wanted in the tank by the aggressor. In nature this is not a problem because the territory is defined and given the extent of the watercourse the submissive fish (for lack of a better term) can easily get away from the danger. In an aquarium this is not really possible. The dominant male is exercising his inherent right to set up his territory, but the submissive male (can be a female too) is prevented from taking the cue and leaving due to the space restriction.