Diy Lighting Safety

[TammyLiz]

OK here's a picture of what I did.

I have a styrene panel I'm going to put over the bottom of it so the bulb will not be exposed. You can see I added a push switch on the side, and I used a plug for the power.

What I don't like about the fixture is that it doesn't allow enough of the light into the tank. Mounted under the counter over the tank, it is far enough over the surface, about 6 inches, that it seems like most of the light is hitting the wall and the counter around the tank. So I am thinking about what I could do for a reflector to try to guide some of the light straight down, but I'm not sure if I've left enough room. Thoughts on materials and shape for a reflector? Or thoughts on other options for getting more light into the tank? A higher wattage bulb, maybe?

 

[SkiFletch]

When space is a factor, mylar to the rescue

 

[dgwebster]

you'll get away with a concave covered in tin foil no problem, which will reflect very well (remember to use the correct shiny side and make it smooth.)

I'd personally check that push-switch. is it rated for 120V? looks like a low voltage switch to me...

 

[TammyLiz]

Ok this is why I originally posted because I have no experience with this type of thing and I'm hoping not to burn down my house! So yes, please do check up on me with the voltage issue.

This is what is says on the back of the switch.

3A 250 VAC
6A 125 VAC
6A 125 VL

With my limited knowledge I assumed this meant 125 volts? I have it wired between the hot wire and the lamp.

The other part, that I bought to screw the bulb into, says 250V. My thought is that is the max, right? And its OK that it is higher than the bulb?

Thanks for helping me out. I am VERY appreciative! (Laughing at myself)

Tammy

 

[dgwebster]

Im extremely rusty but IIRC:

yup you are right that its 250V max - though in america if you are using bog standard wall power, should only be 115V (IIRC) max so thats fine.

The switch is rated at 6 amps (current) max @ 125 volts (your supply) or 3amps at 250v (european supply)

Watts (W) is the measurement of power.

power (W)=V (volts) x I (current)

so current = W/v

Therefore take your lamps wattage and divide by the volts and you get the current of your lamp. e.g. 60W bulb/125V = ~0.5A

So that is the rating of your bulb (it should have the amperage written on it anyway, at least on this side of the atlantic pond it should)

therefore this switch should suffice. Just make absolutely certain that its sheilded against shocking you (preferably has no metal parts that you touch in order to operate.)

*disclaimer: I accept no responsibility from any death, injury or loss/damage that occurs as a result of the above advice given. The above is only advice, should you follow it and at any point you are in doubt, contact a registered electrician to have your work checked over. This is also based on stuff i learned quite some time ago and have not had to use.

 

[TammyLiz]

Thanks for that. Of course I wouldn't hold you liable if I ended up shocking myself, but better safe than sorry when giving advice, right?

 

[dgwebster]

yup and no offence, as I know that this does not apply to everyone, but especially in a country that it's becoming common to sue wherever possible

Im sure that what you have got is fine. Just someday, change to low voltage - less risk, the mains circuit will already be isolated for you in the transformer you will get and you'll probably find a better lighting system

I, just finishing my own DIY tank hood that is using cold cathode lighting running on 12V DC at 1000mA - i basically bought a power transformer from a store and plugged it all in together, but was customer enough to allow me to manipulate it into my own DIY setup. and its bright.