Deionized - Distilled - Osmosis - Rainwater

Oldspartan

Fishaholic
Joined
Feb 14, 2024
Messages
512
Reaction score
995
Location
Gansevoort
Ok, I have said before that I used rainwater to reduce the hardness of my well water as needed. This was a solution until the rain turned to ice and my collection system was shut down.

During the winter I used my grain distiller to make distilled water. It is time consuming and although the fish probably like it, there is no culinary reward for me in the process. So, it is tedious, and I imagine inefficient. I have also purchased deionized water but do not like the cost and it would be expensive next winter with our tank load and expanding fish varieties.

The laundry/fish equipment room has a slop sink that I can pretty easily pop an osmosis unit into. There is also a wet sink and small area in the closet that is part of the fish room.

Because of Linda's increased breeding I think or total tank load in the fish room will be 13 tanks with a total of 585 gallons of water. Two-bedroom tanks adding another 70, my office tank is 40, living room has a ten and a five and Linda's room will have two tanks, a 40 and a 20. About 800 gallons of water when all is complete. This total is at the end not current.

My rainwater systems will handle this for several months, so I have that amount of time to get something done. Likely need for an R/O system a max The max daily need would be about 30 - 50 gallons best I can guestimate. Maybe 60. I would want an engineer's slush so maybe 75-gallon capacity. I am thinking the R/O would "drain" to a tank in the basement then be pumped to my wet sink in the fish room to a mixing valve.

I am just starting to investigate systems and welcome some suggestions. Please assume my math is correct because it is at least a good starting point.

Of course, I could also build a larger distillation system which would have other benefits besides fish tanks. 🍷

edited for more info.
 
Last edited:
For fun calculate how much water do you need to go trough winter ?

800g at 25% changes x weeks = 200 x weeks = tanksize
800g at 50% changes x weeks = 400 x weeks = tanksize

Second, could I overflow as much rain water as needed from the system to fill it ?

Third, Do I have the space and $ for such a swimming pool ?

With a RO/DI system like mine at 30-50 gpd, you would need to have it running 24/7.

you could look at something like @Magnum Man got himself.
 
When I had hard (ish) water, I tried everything. Rainwater got ruined by droughts. Snow allowed me to breed some very difficult fish, but the crystal structure of snowflakes does trap pollutants (or so I have read). But RO just kept chugging - annoying to store, but effective.

Deciding to move to a place and discovering it had very soft tap was a major simplifier of my fishkeeping life.
 
For fun calculate how much water do you need to go trough winter ?

800g at 25% changes x weeks = 200 x weeks = tanksize
800g at 50% changes x weeks = 400 x weeks = tanksize

Second, could I overflow as much rain water as needed from the system to fill it ?

Third, Do I have the space and $ for such a swimming pool ?

With a RO/DI system like mine at 30-50 gpd, you would need to have it running 24/7.

you could look at something like @Magnum Man got himself.
Rainwater is no problem. It is piped into the laundry room as needed. I have a 265 gallon tank that collects water from two roof lines. It is rarely less than 1/2 full. There is also another at the workshop for Linda's flowers. That could be used also but would require hauling it about 100 feet. Doable with the garden tractor, cart and small transfer pump.

I was thinking about a unit (R/O) that makes 75 gallons per day which gives me plenty of wiggle room. Continuous operation is OK with me as long as cost of operation is a factor. the system would only be needed 16 weeks at most.
 
To answer the fun question posed.

If all tanks are running -- I change water every five days currently -- 35 - 35 - 50%. So about 960 gallons twice monthly. Say 1/3 rain water is 320 gallons each month times 4 months is 1260 gallons. Five of my current tanks a load of piping and ditches.

Fun with math! -- and pray for rain!
 
My well water rund about [H 7.0 and the TDS have been as low as 53 ppm and as high as about 115 ppm. Normal for some timehas been about 83 ppm. I am on great well water, but the parameters move a bit based on rainfall. When there os a really a lot for an extended period, I get the lower numbers. During dry/drought periods I get the higher ones. I ultimately got a portable RO/DI unit when I decided to keep Altums which made it needed< However, it also helped with doing dry/raimy seasons for seasonal fish (mostly plecos). Plus, I would also bring it with me to weekend fish events and batch pure water in my hortel bathromm for use in my vendor room tanks. I currently about to sell my recently purchased 4 stage RO/DI unit as I not longer need it.

I would suggest you check out the place I shopped. They sell aquarim units, portable units whole house unit etc. Mine came with a garden hose input. But one can choose a tape that connects you our water pipes in place.
http://www.abundantflowwatersystems.com/
Click on Categories then mouse over Reverse Osmosis Systems

Their stuff is decent;ly priced. Here is my current system--> https://store.afwfilters.com/revers...us-di-with-75-gpd-membrane-former-psi-system/
4-stage Filtration
Stage 1 - Inline sediment filter removes particulates, sand, and sediment
Stage 2 - Inline GAC filter removes tastes, odors, and chemicals to help purify water and prolong membrane life
Stage 3 - 75 GPD high silicate removal thin film composite (TFC) reverse osmosis membrane, purifies the water removing 96-98% of contaminants
Stage 4 - Mixed Bed Inline De-ionization filter - removes remaining contaminants, providing 99.9% effective contaminant removal

2 Connection Options
Your choice of connection options for quick and easy setup
Garden Hose Connector - Simple connector fits standard garden hose thread
Diverter Valve - Connection to most standard faucets with valve to direct water to system
$159.00

They alsi di a 3 stage with no sediment, which I had for many years< for $129.00

They have 100 gpd under Aquarium Systems and higher flow rates in other sections.
 
My well water rund about [H 7.0 and the TDS have been as low as 53 ppm and as high as about 115 ppm. Normal for some timehas been about 83 ppm. I am on great well water, but the parameters move a bit based on rainfall. When there os a really a lot for an extended period, I get the lower numbers. During dry/drought periods I get the higher ones. I ultimately got a portable RO/DI unit when I decided to keep Altums which made it needed< However, it also helped with doing dry/raimy seasons for seasonal fish (mostly plecos). Plus, I would also bring it with me to weekend fish events and batch pure water in my hortel bathromm for use in my vendor room tanks. I currently about to sell my recently purchased 4 stage RO/DI unit as I not longer need it.

I would suggest you check out the place I shopped. They sell aquarim units, portable units whole house unit etc. Mine came with a garden hose input. But one can choose a tape that connects you our water pipes in place.
http://www.abundantflowwatersystems.com/
Click on Categories then mouse over Reverse Osmosis Systems

Their stuff is decent;ly priced. Here is my current system--> https://store.afwfilters.com/revers...us-di-with-75-gpd-membrane-former-psi-system/

$159.00

They alsi di a 3 stage with no sediment, which I had for many years< for $129.00

They have 100 gpd under Aquarium Systems and higher flow rates in other sections.
My well does not very much. Ph is on the high side —- 7.6. Hardness 257, kh about 125.

The unit you mention is about the same I am looking at.
 
Ok, I have said before that I used rainwater to reduce the hardness of my well water as needed. This was a solution until the rain turned to ice and my collection system was shut down.

During the winter I used my grain distiller to make distilled water. It is time consuming and although the fish probably like it, there is no culinary reward for me in the process. So, it is tedious, and I imagine inefficient. I have also purchased deionized water but do not like the cost and it would be expensive next winter with our tank load and expanding fish varieties.
LOL, grain distiller hey :)
Uncle Jessi used to do that on the Dukes of Hazard.

Get buckets of ice and snow, bring them indoors and let them melt. You now have rain water.
 
I have a bit of an issue with collecting snow and rainwater. There is dust and pollen etc, in the air. If one had petroleum fueled vehicles in the area of collection there is the pollution they create. So this leaves the potential for things to be in the rain water and snow we might want to filter out of them before we put it into a tank.

I am sure there are ways to remove such things to, rain/snow if it is advisable to do so. But, when I make my own "pure" water starting with my well water, I do not have to worry about them.

Where I live is quite rocky, much like the Brazilian Shield I think. The rain water sits underground and picks up some minerals etc. When the rain is greater this has a diluting effect. On the other hand when it is dry the water levels underground are lower and because I believe there are minerals that sink lower, the shallower water levels allow more mineral to be picked up.

In order for me to keep the levels under control in the face of some variability I use both a hand held TDS pen and then a permanent digital tester which measures pH, conductivity or TDS (using a choice between 2 conversion factors) and Temp. in F or C. I only use the RO/DI in one tank regularly and the tank params will change a bit between water changes.

The probes are normally in the tank so I always know those numbers. I batch the changing water in a big Rubbermaid garbage can right next to the tank, I can than move the probes from the tank to the can and set those parameters there to numbers I know when added to the tank will bring it's parameters back towards those for which I have the tank targeted.

My digital tester ran me about $250 way back when. I also have the pH calibration solutions which need to be used to maintain the accuracy of the probes. I usually have to use these about every 2-3 months.

Another advantage of having the RO/DI water is that it is great for topping up a tank so that I am not adding more stuff one would normally remove during water changes but which can build up in some cases when topping up with tap. I also use it when I need to run the dry/rainy seasons in a few tanks.

I live in the area NNE of NYC where a lot of the reservoirs for the city water originates.
 
I would not use snow for the reason you state, also because it would be a major chore, and I have enough of those.

Our rainwater is brought to a bit over 165F in my brew pot before use. It is an easy procedure; it is then run through the beer chiller to whatever temp we need. I suppose there could be some contaminates but to date no issues.

I am pretty sold on the RO system at this point and the price appears to be less than what I expected which is good point when selling this to Linda. She is more carefree about spending for what she can see than she is to what she cannot.
 
Btw- for those who are coffee and/or tea drinkers it is said that making these beverages with pure water is the most effective way to get the best flavor from them. I drink coffee and tried it, but my water from the tap is pretty good and I did not notice a big difference.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top