dead plants and cloudy water

[Tl52505]

First off, always give the test result numbers. None of us knows what "ok" or "high" means.

Given your situation, I agree that you should not get any fish until you are home permanently. Leave the tank running.

I just got some test strips and will post the results, I’m not sure about what hardness really does but the test read 0 for it.

 

[Byron]

The GH is general or total hardness which is the measure of dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water. Other minerals are very low in domestic water supplies as many of them are toxic, so no worry here. Calcium is the prime mineral. At 0 there is very little to no calcium/magnesium in the water. This is ideal for soft and very soft water fish species but no good for livebearers, rift lake cichlids, some rainbowfishes.

GH is the most important parameter, along with temperature, for tropical freshwater fishes. Each species has evolved to function and live in very specific water. While there is some elasticity, more for some fish than others, there are species that absolutely must have these minerals in the water because they use them to function. There are also many fish species that can not have these minerals because they enter the fish's bloodstream and are caught by the kidneys, and in time the kidneys get blocked and the fish dies. So finding fish suited to your water is the first step in success.

Turning to the pH here, it seems very high (8 or above?) and it would be worth seeing if something is being added to the water to do this. With very soft water one would normally expect the pH to be acidic to neutral. Check the water authority's website, or call them. Areas that have very soft water with a natural pH that is acidic often have substances like soda ash added to raise the pH but not the GH or KH. The KH is also high, and this will buffer the pH preventing it from fluctuating, which is fine, but it will keep the pH high. This carbonate hardness can be removed by boiling the water. I've never done this, but I mention it.

 

[Tl52505]

The GH is general or total hardness which is the measure of dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water. Other minerals are very low in domestic water supplies as many of them are toxic, so no worry here. Calcium is the prime mineral. At 0 there is very little to no calcium/magnesium in the water. This is ideal for soft and very soft water fish species but no good for livebearers, rift lake cichlids, some rainbowfishes.

GH is the most important parameter, along with temperature, for tropical freshwater fishes. Each species has evolved to function and live in very specific water. While there is some elasticity, more for some fish than others, there are species that absolutely must have these minerals in the water because they use them to function. There are also many fish species that can not have these minerals because they enter the fish's bloodstream and are caught by the kidneys, and in time the kidneys get blocked and the fish dies. So finding fish suited to your water is the first step in success.

Turning to the pH here, it seems very high (8 or above?) and it would be worth seeing if something is being added to the water to do this. With very soft water one would normally expect the pH to be acidic to neutral. Check the water authority's website, or call them. Areas that have very soft water with a natural pH that is acidic often have substances like soda ash added to raise the pH but not the GH or KH. The KH is also high, and this will buffer the pH preventing it from fluctuating, which is fine, but it will keep the pH high. This carbonate hardness can be removed by boiling the water. I've never done this, but I mention it.

I’ll use a test strip on my tap water I use after putting the conditioner in, I’ll post the results of that as well as soon as I get the chance, I heard that driftwood can lower ph, if this is true should I put in the big piece I have laying around

 

[Tl52505]

Ok do shrimp not like algae wafers or something, I dropped one in for them and they have no interest in it, not going near it except one that just went right over it

 

[Byron]

I’ll use a test strip on my tap water I use after putting the conditioner in, I’ll post the results of that as well as soon as I get the chance,

When testing tap water on its own, use fresh tap water (exception, testing pH requires a glass of tap water to sit 24 hours) without conditioner por any other additive, just the tap water.

I heard that driftwood can lower ph, if this is true should I put in the big piece I have laying around

As I explained previously, the pH is closely connected to the GH and KH and depending what these are they may be buffering the pH so organics will not lower the pH. No problem using a chunk of safe wood, many fish like wood, but it may not do anything regarding the pH.

 

[Tl52505]

When testing tap water on its own, use fresh tap water (exception, testing pH requires a glass of tap water to sit 24 hours) without conditioner por any other additive, just the tap water.



As I explained previously, the pH is closely connected to the GH and KH and depending what these are they may be buffering the pH so organics will not lower the pH. No problem using a chunk of safe wood, many fish like wood, but it may not do anything regarding the pH.

ok, some of my shrimp are turning a yellowish tint, but others look completely fine. could the ph or water hardness be the cause of this, or is that normal for them to have slight color variations.

 

[Byron]

ok, some of my shrimp are turning a yellowish tint, but others look completely fine. could the ph or water hardness be the cause of this, or is that normal for them to have slight color variations.

The pH seems to be basic, in the range of high 7's to low 8's, so this should not affect shrimp I would think, but shrimp members can advise. The GH (hardness, calcium especially) is more important for shrimp.

 

[Tl52505]

The pH seems to be basic, in the range of high 7's to low 8's, so this should not affect shrimp I would think, but shrimp members can advise. The GH (hardness, calcium especially) is more important for shrimp.

yea thats probably it, my water hardness reads as 0. do they make things like api ph up for the water hardness?

 

[Byron]

yea thats probably it, my water hardness reads as 0. do they make things like api ph up for the water hardness?

Do not use these products, they are dangerous. With respect to the GH, some shrimp need more calcium so this would be a problem, there are also soft water shrimp but again shrimp experts can advise further.

GH is tied to KH and pH, and increasing or decreasing one of these can cause significant problems in water chemistry. It has to be done as the whole. In soft water though, some people do use calcareous objects, say a shell, cuttlebone, etc. I've never had to do this so again others can advise.