Cyanobacteria - Blue-Green Algae (BGA)

Thanks again for the advice but I have thought long and hard about the situation and have decided to...... start from scratch!!

You probably think I'm mad but let me explain.

I needed to identify the cause of the BGA (cyanobacteria). It's no use just treating the symptom with antibiotics etc. The BGA will return when the antibiotics are exhausted. I don't like the idea of adding treatments regularly. I have narrowed down the cause to a few factors.

1. The massive overhaul and removal of lots of healthy plants when I began to change my layout has thrown off the balance. I was lured into a false sense of security when I witnessed my new plants growing well with no apparent problems.

2. The removal of my large rooted plants i.e. Amazon swords left some roots still in the substrate. These have rotted over time and caused excess toxins to fester in the gravel.

3. Due to recent good weather the water temp. has increased so I switched off my heater cable. Consequently the substrate has gone (I think) anaerobic leading to hydrogen sulphide pockets and ultimately BGA.

4. I removed the 250ml RowaPhos (phosphate removal media) from my external canister filter (Fluval 204) in the belief that the plants would deal with any excess phosphate levels. In hindsight and reading up on the Redfield Ratio (thanks iggy01) I reckon my low nitrate levels and higher phosphate levels have contributed to the BGA trigger.

5. I never vacuum my gravel. Traditionally I am actually overstocked fish-wise but always considered myself safe in that my nitrates were always low and I am over-filtered (Juwel internal plus Fluval 204 and under-gravel heating).

6. Spare time is very limited (the reason I changed to layout to begin with) with a new baby and work pressures. I have not been giving my tank the attention I normally do therefore failing to spot early signs of any problems.

All these factors have combined and led to the BGA outbreak and my tank’s demise.

The BGA has definitely originated from the substrate. I remember seeing vague signs weeks back – dark green/blue patches appearing in front of the gravel visible on the front glass. I initially dismissed them as detritus but before I knew it BGA has taken over.

As result of my (probably entire) substrate becoming infested I have decided to replace it all along with most of my plants. Most of you may see this as a hardship but personally I am quite excited. I love the planning and execution of setting up a new aquascape. Besides, I was never really happy with my old substrate – fine pea gravel with laterite. The gravel contains lime which constantly dissolves boosting my hardness levels. I had to keep this in check via water changes with very soft water. The laterite is two years old now and has probably been nearly exhausted of its nutrients.

I only hope my mistakes can be a lesson to you all.

See my 34 Gallon Journal for my future plans (click on the link below my signature).
 
What a shame George. It was really starting to take shape. But alas, that is what happens in the world of aquatics!

I hope that starting from scratch will get rid of the problem.

I look forward to seeing the new plans!
 
canoechiq said:
I hope that starting from scratch will get rid of the problem.
I better do otherwise I'm starting a new hobby!!

Joking aside - I can only blame myself. Mistakes are there to be learnt from - one that has not made a mistake has not done much!

Hopefully others may learn from my mistakes - that's why I've shared them.

Cheers honey!
 
I'm starting to wish now that I had gotten the subsrtate heater like you had mentioned. It's too late to add it now, but I'll know for next time.

I can guarantee that others will learn from your mistakes... It always helps to know what others have done wrong so that you can avoid doing them yourself. That's why I love this forum. Everyone is so helpful and willing to share their experiences!
 
Good luck starting from scratch........yeah! you must be mad! :lol:

That would be my final option after I'd tried everything else. :-(
 
To be honest it gave the excuse to change my substrate. I'm also a believer in treating the cause rather than the symptom - in this case cleaning my entire substrate and loosing a lot of plants. My logic dictated that I may as well start from scratch, hopefully this time I'll have a long-term problem free aquarium.
 
I catch your drift gf225. :D I totally agree about treating the cause and not the symptom. Just one question. How will you know what caused the outbreak by stripping your tank? :dunno:
 
I will never 100% "know" what caused the outbreak, I can only assume that the factors I mentioned earlier in this thread contributed to the BGA.

I'm confident that changing the substrate and giving the tank an overhaul will solve the problem. I plan to re-home my Cory julii, Botia striata and Rummynose tetras thus providing less bio-load on the system and furthur minimising the risk of a BGA trigger.

What are your thoughts on phosphate removal in planted aquaria?
 
gf225 said:
What are your thoughts on phosphate removal in planted aquaria?

I use Rowaphos to keep my phosphate levels down. According to my test kit my tap water contains 4-5 mg/l of phosphate. The Rowaphos reduces it to around 0.5-1.0 mg/l. However, I am becoming increasingly unconvinced about the accuracy of test kits. United Utilities tell me the tap water contains around 2 mg/l. I am toying with the idea of removing the Rowaphos and seeing what happens. :thumbs:
 
iggy01 said:
gf225 said:
What are your thoughts on phosphate removal in planted aquaria?

I use Rowaphos to keep my phosphate levels down. According to my test kit my tap water contains 4-5 mg/l of phosphate. The Rowaphos reduces it to around 0.5-1.0 mg/l. However, I am becoming increasingly unconvinced about the accuracy of test kits. United Utilities tell me the tap water contains around 2 mg/l. I am toying with the idea of removing the Rowaphos and seeing what happens. :thumbs:
I know Tom Barr doesn't agree with their use - mind you he probably doesn't have 7 mg/l PO4 in his tap as I do. I use 50:50 RO/tap so in theory each 20 litre water change only increases my tank's PO4 by about 0.6 mg/l. I'm hopeful my plants can deal with that.

I'll be a lot more disciplined with my KNO3 additions in the future.

Follow my journal for updates - I've just changed the substrate.
 
An important aspect of this method is the knowledge that excess nutrients do not cause algae blooms as so many authors in the past and many today still maintain without having tested this critically in aquariums with a healthy plant biomass. It is a welcomed relief knowing that ?excess? phosphate, nitrate and iron do not cause algae blooms.

For many years this has been the assumption but it is incorrect. Ammonium(NH4+) at low levels have been the primary causative agent for algae blooms in terms of an "excess" nutrient.

http://www.barrreport.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1

Tom Barr, in my understanding, doesn't think phosphate would even cause algae blooms yet it's the ammonium that does; however, there's probably alot more to it.
 
Nospherith said:
Tom Barr, in my understanding, doesn't think phosphate would even cause algae blooms yet it's the ammonium that does; however, there's probably alot more to it.

I don't think Tom Barr is alone in this assumption. For years we have been told that higher levels of nitrate and phosphate are algae triggers. Now we have many people with successful algae free tanks, who are dosing these two macro nutrients to levels much higher than has previously been accepted.
 
True enough. I've been reading a lot on dosing with various NPK containing compounds.

From what I understand it's important to virtually overdose with ferts rather then let one component be deficient. Obviously one requires a set-up with heavy planting and excellent growth to justify this method. I guess the alleochemical production from the higher plants help keep the algae in check more than the nutrient uptake.
 
gf225 said:
I know Tom Barr doesn't agree with their use - mind you he probably doesn't have 7 mg/l PO4 in his tap as I do. I use 50:50 RO/tap so in theory each 20 litre water change only increases my tank's PO4 by about 0.6 mg/l. I'm hopeful my plants can deal with that.

I'll be a lot more disciplined with my KNO3 additions in the future.

Follow my journal for updates - I've just changed the substrate.

I can sympathise with you there gf225. I'm very familiar with high phosphate readings. Have you ever contacted your local water company for a phosphate reading? As I stated earlier in the thread, I have and was shocked to be told phosphate levels were 2-3 mg/l less than my test kit shows.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top