Curious question

Tyler777

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My newly cycled tank out of the blue got nitrites showing up n a few fish died.
I was wondering if I do a water change n instead of tap water n conditioner how bout I add water from other 2 tanks that had been cycled for months n the water is good. So replace tap water for those tankswater would that help to get rid of the nitrites from my new tank ?
 
My newly cycled tank out of the blue got nitrites showing up n a few fish died.
I was wondering if I do a water change n instead of tap water n conditioner how bout I add water from other 2 tanks that had been cycled for months n the water is good. So replace tap water for those tankswater would that help to get rid of the nitrites from my new tank ?
I wouldn't do it. All you would be doing is adding nitrates from your other tanks into the tank that has the nitrite issue. Ya know what reduces nitrates? A whole lotta live plants or water changes with tap water.
 
Most of the beneficial bacteria is not in the water, but on surfaces… I’ve had really good luck running a pair of hang on back filters, and moving an existing one from a cycled tank, into a new tank… I may be a bit of a fringe fish keeper, but I don’t do fishless cycling… I add a clean but cycled filter, and a few plants, and slowly start adding fish right away… I can always do extra water changes, but typically just regular water changes are needed… I did this method when I moved 5 adult Tin Foil barbs into a freshly set up aquarium ( almost 40 inches of fish ) and the precycled Tidal 75 filter and a few pothos vines, were all that was needed… the only way I would consider a fishless cycling, is if it was my 1st aquarium… once you have a running aquarium, you have everything you need… I would buy a new filter and get it going, in your existing tank, before the new tank is set up, then pull one of your older seasoned filters to add to the new tank…
 
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I wouldn't do it. All you would be doing is adding nitrates from your other tanks into the tank that has the nitrite issue. Ya know what reduces nitrates? A whole lotta live plants or water changes with tap water.
I get ur point but the water from the other tank have zero nitrites n zero ammonia. The water in those tanks is good
 
I get ur point but the water from the other tank have zero nitrites n zero ammonia. The water in those tanks is good
Nah you don't get it but that's my fault for not being clearer.
As @Magnum Man said you have to address the underlying biological filter issue that lead to the spike in nitrites.

But adding used tank water, sure it will temporarily dilute your nitrites. You said your tank is newly cycled so I'm assuming you are measuring nitrates in that tank yes? So what happens when your tank has extra nitrates from the used tank water and the bacteria finally catch up and add more nitrates to the water?
It's like you've replaced the time bomb made with C4, with a different time bomb made with a stick of dynamite. Neither one is good, one is a slightly smaller bang.
 
It's not just nitrate. Don't forget that used water from other tanks will contain a lot of things that we do water changes to remove, things we can't measure. You need to remove them from this tank by removing water and adding new tap water (dechlorinated) not add more of them from another tank.
 
There is almost no occurence of nitrite in a tank with fish where one should do a water change as a solution. There are two reasons why this is the case.

The first is how nitrite affects fish. it enter through the gills, gets into the blood.

Nitrite
Nitrite enters the bloodstream through the gills and turns the blood to a chocolate-brown color. Hemoglobin, which transports oxygen in the blood, combines with nitrite to form methemoglobin, which is incapable of oxygen transport. Brown blood cannot carry sufficient amounts of oxygen, and affected fish can suffocate despite adequate oxygen concentration in the water. This accounts for the gasping behavior often observed in fish with brown blood disease, even when oxygen levels are relatively high............

Luckily, although we often cannot prevent the occurrence of high nitrite, its effects can be minimized or neutralized safely and economically. Sodium chloride (common salt, NaCl) is used to “treat” brown blood disease. Calcium chloride can also be used but is typically more expensive. The chloride portion of salt competes with nitrite for absorption through the gills.

Maintaining at least a 10 to 1 ratio of chloride to nitrite in a pond effectively prevents nitrite from entering catfish. Where catfish (or
other fish) have bacterial and/or parasite diseases, their sensitivity to nitrite may be greater, and a higher chloride-to-nitrite ratio
may be needed to afford added protection from nitrite invasion into the bloodstream.

If you go to the article in the cycling section and read the section on Nitrite, it gives step by step insrtuctions for how to deal with nitrite without needing a water change.

The second reason we do not want to do a water change is how the bacteria actually function. The nitrite bacteria are triggered to reproduce when nitrite levels are greater than the existing bacteria can use. In this case, the bacteria begin to reproduce at a faster rate than they are naturally dying and reproducing at and this results in more of them being created/

When we change water to lower the nitrite reading we will not cause the reproduction we need. This in turn means the will be nitrite issues for longer and the fish are not being protected. By addint the chlporide in salt we protect the fish from the nitrite while allowing for the bacteria to reproduce as rapidly as they can to handle the nitrite. Bear in mind it takes 24 or more hours for the nitrite to leave the fish. But this assumea that there is not any nitrite still in the water. So,while a water change may lower the level of nitrie, it will still be entering the fish and staying there for a while. Only chloride protects the fish otherwise you have to wait while it continues to let more harm be done before you have sufficient bacteria to end the situation.

We cannot do something similar for ammonia or nitrate We have no option other than a water change in terms of lowering ammonia levels. Yes, this means the true solution of having more bacteria created from reproduction will take longer, but it is what we have to do to protect the fish since we cannot prevent the harm from ammonia or nitrate the way we can block the nitrite from doing so.

As the rescue article clearly states, the amount of salt required to block the nitrite is pretty low. There are almost no fish which will not have way more benefit from the salt than any harm you think it might produce. I recently worked with a member having nitrite issues at .25 ppm. this was in a 75 gal. tanl. The amount of salt needed to block that level of nitrite was 1/8 of a teaspoon. We used 64 gallons as the actually water volume to account for substrate, decor and the fact we do not fill tanks to the top.

This was a tank with fish in it. None of them dies, none of them were gasping at the surface. When the nitrie levels spiked hiher all that was needed was to add more salt at the rate of 1/8 teaspoon for every .25 ppm the nitrite increased.

Consider that water changes tend to stress fish and that stress weakens their ability to fight of diseases etc. So, having to do lots of water changes to [protect fish has it's potential downside. So what do think makes the most sense, to reduce the level of nitrite but not to stop more from entering your fish and spend all the time and effort big water changes require. Or instead, you just addia small amount of salt to your tank and prevent the nitrite from even entering the fish. (Hint- add the salt.)
 
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I read about that with tank raising Tilapia, as they are often raised in way over crowded conditions
 
I have been reading scientific papers now for 220 years. These all relate to topics that are very relative to our hobby. But most of the research which can help us was not done for hobby related things. it is done for aquaculture.

Magnum- this one is for you.

Atwood, H. L., Fontenot, Q. C., Tomasso, J. R., & Isely, J. J. (2001). Toxicity of Nitrite to Nile Tilapia: Effect of Fish Size and Environmental Chloride. North American Journal of Aquaculture, 63(1), 49–51. https://doi.org/10.1577/1548-8454(2001)063<0049:TONTNT>2.0.CO;2

Abstract​

Small (4.4 ± 1.50 g; mean ± SD) Nile tilapias Oreochromis niloticus were more tolerant of nitrite than large (90.7 ± 16.43 g) fish. The 96-h median lethal concentration of nitrite-N to small fish was 81 mg/L (95% confidence interval = 35–127 mg/L) compared with 8 mg/L (4–11 mg/L) for large fish. Addition of chloride to test water (as either calcium chloride or sodium chloride) protected both small and large fish from nitrite. Sodium chloride and calcium chloride appeared to be similarly effective in inhibiting nitrite toxicity.

Full paper here https://www.researchgate.net/profil...t-of-Fish-Size-and-Environmental-Chloride.pdf

Science says any study of the effects of nitrite on fish which does not contain data on what amount of chloride was in the water will not be worth the paper on which it is printed. Consider that nitrite is way less of a concern for salt water fish. If you are not dialed into this fact then search for "nitrite and sw fish."
 
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That was why I have a black belt in the ancient art of Tai Po. I should have written,

I have been reading scientific papers now for 220 years and boy are my eyes tired! :fun:
 

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