The three main fins on two of my corys are disappearing or rotting away some how. Leaving just the main bone sticking out. Like the fins are slowly being eaten away by something I can't see by eye. Any help? I love my corys. It's not the substrate because the dorsal fin is the same way.
Corys Fins
- Thread starter nunster
- Start date
What are the parameters of the tank? (Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) Temperature? Other tank mates? Have you added any salt? Anything recently added like chemicals?
Water conditions is perfect. I have well water and use a setteling and charcoal filter and then the water goes through a five stage RO unit and then into a holding barrale. The water comes out a little on the acidic side but that is easy fixed. And I add just a little bit of minerials back into the water.
Only problem is temp right now. Spiking at 85ºf.
I cycle at least 30% of the water at least once a week.
Could the warm temp be stressing them and making them loose their fins?
Only problem is temp right now. Spiking at 85ºf.
I cycle at least 30% of the water at least once a week.
Could the warm temp be stressing them and making them loose their fins?
Honestly not sure if that would cause it or not, how long has it been like that? Any idea why? 
Not the temperature in itself, but high temperatures lead to low oxygen, leading to poor filtration, possible ammonia spikes, harmful bacteria flourishing and of course most corys are not tolerant to high temperatures long term.
I am not sure whether you measure your TDS when doing that but with plain RO water mineralized via powders without proper control and care you maybe sending your stats all over the place each time which few fish can tolerate and can lead to a ton of issues/diseases/death. And of course if you are not adding enough of particular minerals the fish need then they'll also have weak immune system and possibly die too.
I'd take those corys out in a small quarantine tank with tap water and some sand, drip acclimate them to your tap water slowly, put a cycled filter, do water changes with just dechlorinated water, keep the temperature down via colder water changes and see if they improve. Whatever is happening seems it's affecting them alot. And of course due to that enviromental stress they may have caught some bacterial/fungal infection but one needs to solve the stressor first otherwise no meds can help.
Meeresstille
Fish Addict
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by you cycle at least 30% of the water, at least once a week. Do you mean you do a 30% water change, where you take out 30% and add 30% fresh water? Do you have a filter running on the tank?
Do you measure the water parameters with a liquid test kit, and what are the exact numbers? How long has your tank been set up for, what kind of cory do you have and how big is your tank? Do you have any other fish in the tank?
If you want to cool down the tank you could float a baggie of ice at the top.
Do you measure the water parameters with a liquid test kit, and what are the exact numbers? How long has your tank been set up for, what kind of cory do you have and how big is your tank? Do you have any other fish in the tank?
If you want to cool down the tank you could float a baggie of ice at the top.
I have been using small water bottles that I have froze. It helps to keep the temp down. This is a an all real, no fake or plastic decorations type of tank. The substrate is between 1 1/2" - 2" deep. But I know it's not from the bottom of the tank because the dorsal fin is doing the same thing. Yeah I change out at 30% of the water at least once a week. This set up has been running now for months.
Then I do use CO2 for the aquarium too. CO2 makes life so much better by controling algea. But I monitor the co2 levels closely. And if I hadn't said so this is a 76g planted tank.
I run a circulating pump and air bubbles of and on through out the day just to make sure the water is getting really stirred up. Besides the large cascade filter, uv light and the co2 atomizer on the outlet side of the filter unit.
It is mainly a platy tank, ghost shrimp, corys, otto or totto? algea eaters, small snale, rainbow shark, one male betta, two chinnese algea eaters, four ghost or what ever their called type of neon fish.
anything else besides a pic right now. Get around to that someday.
Then I do use CO2 for the aquarium too. CO2 makes life so much better by controling algea. But I monitor the co2 levels closely. And if I hadn't said so this is a 76g planted tank.
I run a circulating pump and air bubbles of and on through out the day just to make sure the water is getting really stirred up. Besides the large cascade filter, uv light and the co2 atomizer on the outlet side of the filter unit.
It is mainly a platy tank, ghost shrimp, corys, otto or totto? algea eaters, small snale, rainbow shark, one male betta, two chinnese algea eaters, four ghost or what ever their called type of neon fish.
anything else besides a pic right now. Get around to that someday.
Meeresstille
Fish Addict
The reason why it is important to know these things is so we can figure out what is causing the damage to your corys fins.
Betta Splendons are known to damage other fish,even if you see no aggression during viewing times, it can happen at night when the lights are off. Chinese Algae Eaters are known to become aggressive as they get bigger, so these too could be the culprits damaging your corys' fins.
Damaged fins are susceptible to infections which could be bacterial or fungal. With an uncycled filter you could have ammonia and/or nitrites in the water which also can damage your fish's fins, creating a breeding ground for bacteria or fungus.
A lot of people say they have normal ranges in their water parameters, but do they mean normal as none are detected, or normal for the spot in the cycling process they are in!
A 75 gallon is a beautifully large tank, but your stocking seems to be something you need to look at. You need to know what kind of species of fish you have and if they are compatible with each other, as well as if you have them in the minimum numbers they should be in. For example if you have neon tetras, do you have more than 6, since they need to be in schools to feel comfortable and secure? Otocinclus too should be in a group of 6 or more, Bettas generally do better as an only fish in a tank, but there are a number of people who have had success keeping Bettas in a community tank.
I don't have any experience with rainbow sharks, and hopefully someone else can advise on that!
Betta Splendons are known to damage other fish,even if you see no aggression during viewing times, it can happen at night when the lights are off. Chinese Algae Eaters are known to become aggressive as they get bigger, so these too could be the culprits damaging your corys' fins.
Damaged fins are susceptible to infections which could be bacterial or fungal. With an uncycled filter you could have ammonia and/or nitrites in the water which also can damage your fish's fins, creating a breeding ground for bacteria or fungus.
A lot of people say they have normal ranges in their water parameters, but do they mean normal as none are detected, or normal for the spot in the cycling process they are in!
A 75 gallon is a beautifully large tank, but your stocking seems to be something you need to look at. You need to know what kind of species of fish you have and if they are compatible with each other, as well as if you have them in the minimum numbers they should be in. For example if you have neon tetras, do you have more than 6, since they need to be in schools to feel comfortable and secure? Otocinclus too should be in a group of 6 or more, Bettas generally do better as an only fish in a tank, but there are a number of people who have had success keeping Bettas in a community tank.
I don't have any experience with rainbow sharks, and hopefully someone else can advise on that!
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