Corals Ideas

Ok, I'm going to add my 2 pennies worth, again.

black molly3, we are trying to help you, I don't believe anybody has been rude, I think we are just telling you what you don't want to hear.
Ski has given you an excellent reply, water chemistry is very complex, I don't understand it fully, I will admit it, but you must understand the basic's to be able to start your little ego system. I would advise you to buy 'The Book', I'm sure you've heard people talking about it, it is called Corals, selection, husbandry, and natural History. its written by Eric H Borneman. It has an excellent section on water chemistry. I also bought a book called 'saltwater aquariums for Dummies' (Similar to the computer books)

You mentioned in one of your replies that people on other forums don't go by rules like 1 tiny fish in a 50 litre tank, why do you think we have told you this, do you think we are all just being vindictive, why would we do that, we don't know you, we are giving you advice that is correct in the marine fishes world.

You say that you have read that a hammerhead coral is a good beginner coral, you are correct it is a good LPS to start with, But in a mature system not one which is only a few weeks old, most new reefers will start with softies then move on to SPS/LPS corals later when the tank is mature enough, we are talking minimum 3 months.

You have done your first water change and you know the mistakes you have made, make sure your next one is done correctly and it hasn't been in vain.
Get a bucket, spare heater and a spare powerhead add your RO water to the bucket and heat with heater, also turn on powerhead, once the right temp. is reached add the correct amount of salt, then wait at least 24 hours, check the SG if its correct then go ahead with water change, if not either add more salt, if SG to low and wait for that to dissolve or add more RO water, if SG to high. I will add make sure salt is dissolved also if not then wait till it is :good:

None of us are perfect and we've all made mistakes I bought a Gonipora very early on and I too got told off, but you must except that this will happen, we all want you to have a lovely, healthly tank and we all want to help you, why do you think we all continue to answer your posts, if we didn't care we wouldn't bother.

You can make excuses or go to differant forums, but in the long run if you continue to go ahead at a million miles an hour the result unfortunately will be the same.
Buy the test kits that you have been advised to, then post your water stats on here, and we can get your water sorted :good:
Just slow down, thats all we ask.
 
see now thats a better reply. yes i do understand water stats and all of the basics. i havent got a clue about some of the things ski mentioned. i will probably stick to all softies for a long time now. i will do alot of research before i go lps. thanks.
 
o yes one more thing. i went to get my first fish today which was a clown. the man in the shop because i have bacame a regular offered me a colony of button polyps. i done the right thing and said i am not sure if my tank parameters or the tank itself will be mature enough for more corals he said how long has your tank been up i said almost 3 weeks he said what are the basic parameters so i told him and he said they will be fine. so i havea colony of button polyps now. Leather has been doing fantastic and so have the starburst polyps and the xenia which came on some live rock has realy sprouted and mutiplied fast it is spreading all over that rock.
 
you only bought one clown? if so i suggest you keep it that way, and add nothing else fish wise.

im not going to comment on what has happened or we will be going round in circles. however if i was there at the time, i would have given my opinion.

stick with softies. and learn the basics (water params the basic ones for soft and LPS so you need to learn about the main ones...ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, phosphate, magnesium, calcium, alk/KH)

read all of the articles for beginners on ultimate reef.

and even though that guy in the LFS said it would be fine. never take his word.... come here first!!

i may have been a little arrogant/rude in the past, but only in frustration because of your extreme arrogance, and only taking the information that suites you...rant over
 
Button polyps are fine :good:
How about some pictures of your new additions.

What are your water stats now?

One more thing, don't over feed your clown or this will lead you to more problems :good:
 
Button polyps are fine :good:
How about some pictures of your new additions.

What are your water stats now?

One more thing, don't over feed your clown or this will lead you to more problems :good:

i wil post some tank pics later if i get the time. i havent checked stats today i have been in work so i will do them tonight. inhabitants consist of 5 turbos 1 red leg hermit 1 clown a hammer a finger leather a colony of brown buttons a small colony of yellow buttons starburt polyps and some unknow xenia. the hammer is looking better. i think the drop did do the damage there is one head what is fine which was the one what never hit the ground but the other two are still shaken up. looking at some corals on the internet to decide what should be my next in a couple of weeks. i was thinking shrooms if this would be ok or even a ric. when i was in my lfs yesterday i seen a candy cane coral it had a few dead heads though the man said it was like this when it came. i quite like candy canes and i also like brain corals. how long should i wait for either of these two corals and also would a ric be ok as i have read that they are not as hardy as your normal shrooms
 
Brain corals can be OK to keep, or a difficult, depending on the species. What type do you have your eye on? I'm not too shure on Candy Cane corals...
 
Brain corals can be OK to keep, or a difficult, depending on the species. What type do you have your eye on? I'm not too shure on Candy Cane corals...

it was this ttype
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_di...&pcatid=429

the green one which caught my attention. i was wondering if i took my hammer back would i still need to get alk tests and all that. i am going to get a calcium test and a phosphate test but are the rest important.
thanks
 
for LPS YOU MUST HAVE!!! MG (most important) calcium (second most important) alk/KH (third important) test kits and supplements. for test kits BUY SALIFERT!!! theyre really good, but i find the D+D phosphate test kit better (bought them both this week)
 
You really need to have a good book such as the one Trod told you about

I would advise you to buy 'The Book', I'm sure you've heard people talking about it, it is called Corals, selection, husbandry, and natural History. its written by Eric H Borneman. It has an excellent section on water chemistry.

This book is a reefers bible as far as I am concerned. I have had the book for two weeks read it cover to cover and am rereading sections as they are needed.
It has an excellent section on water chemistry and talks about precipitation, supersaturation etc that ski mentioned. It will also mean that you can tell the difference as to which corals are softies and which are hard corals that will require the extra test kits and the addition of supplements.

If I were you I would not go any further without reading this book.
 
I have one of those brain corals now (need to get a new camera and update my journal at some point :rolleyes: ) and they are on about the same level as a hammer care wise. Good light and moderate flow and they should do well provided Mg, Alk and Ca are all right :good: The tank isn't realy mature enough for the Brain either, and won't fair any better/worse than the hammer TBH.

In order of importance in a Reef, are;

Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
SG
Temperature
Phosphate

Then for hard corals of any discription (brain, hammer, anything that grows it's own skelaton basically...)

Mg
Alk
Ca.

Mg keeps Alk disolved and that keeps Ca disolved. If you dose Ca without suficient Alk, the Ca will precipitate out, wasting your money on suppliemnts and messing up your water stats again :rolleyes: It's a similar story with Mg and Alk (if Mg is low, Alk will precipitate out). Also, Ca and Alk need to be "ballenced", i.e. if one is high/low, the other needs to be also...

Realy, a good book, or lots of on-line reading is needed to get the water right. For now, if you stick with hard corals, post the stats and we'll advice what to tweak and by how much, but you ideally want to learn it for yourself :nod: :good: The best bet would be to take the Hammer back for a credit note for now, but you might not be comfy with that move :sad:

All the best
Rabbut
 
Realy, a good book, or lots of on-line reading is needed to get the water right. For now, if you stick with hard corals, post the stats and we'll advice what to tweak and by how much, but you ideally want to learn it for yourself The best bet would be to take the Hammer back for a credit note for now, but you might not be comfy with that move

All the best

Rabbut meant stick with soft corals.
 
Leave the Candy cane and brain alone for at least 3 months.

Ricordeas would be a nice colourful addition :good:
or have a look at zoanthids
 
I agree with Trod ricodea or zoa,s would be a really nice coral with lots of different variants in colour.

But just a word of warning you now that you should be wearing rubber gloves when handling corals, well this is especial true when handling zoa,s {zoa,s carry Palytoxin very dangerous} but don’t let this put you off as long as you wear gloves which you should be doing any ways, you will be ok
Take a little look at this i am sure you will find it interesting
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=79056
best regards john,o
 

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