Co2 injection

[Swampman]

Hi I just set up my co2. I want to know if I have the diffuser in the right place. My supply is located in back of diffuser. Let me know your thoughts.

 

[Fishfunn]

Be careful with the rate of CO2 entering your water; too much will kill your fish. Monitor your pH so it doesn't get too acidic.

 

[Archerfish]

In an ideal world, 'the right place' is a location that does not allow any of the CO2 to reach the surface. You will have to experiment. Start by moving the diffuser near the canister filter's return and try for as much bubble turbulence as possible. I had one set-up where I had to vent the canister return at a 45 degree angle to get the desired result. Also, look to make sure your plants are not blocking the flow. Experiment.

 

[Colin_T]

Make sure you have enough carbonate hardness (KH) in the water to stop the pH dropping due to the carbon dioxide (CO2). The CO2 is an acidic gas that drops the pH and you need the KH to be around 100-150ppm to stop the pH dropping. You have swordtails (fish) in the tank and they don't like acid water so keep an eye on the pH and KH.

Generally you have the diffuser near the bottom and near a filter outlet to help distribute the CO2 around the tank.

 

[Sleeveless]

My only observation is that hose barely on the check valve. Can you put that on more?

 

[Archerfish]

Did we answer your question about placement?
You can monitor your CO2 with a drop checker. A double drop checker is even better and super easy.

 

[Fishfunn]

I used a pH monitor to shut off the CO2 value if the pH dropped too low. I got this after I accidentally set my CO2 rate too high, which depleted my KH buffer and caused a fish kill in my tank.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I know about all the fancy and expesive items many folks use with their CO2. WHen I got mine it was about 2003 or so. I am space constrained and somewhat cash short back then and I set up my system as follows/

CO2 Bottle with dual gauge regulator bought from a bee supply company.
CO2 resistant tubing.
Clippard Needle valve
Bubble counter

I pushed thh output hose into the thhe ATI prefilter attached to the intake on an Eheim 2026 canister. I selected Eheim as they were/are the premiere canister. I knew that putting gas bubbles into a canister (or other filters) could be a problem, so I did not even consider another brand.

It took me a little time to dial in the correct bubble rate. I started on the low side to be safe. My KH was about 4.0 and my tap water was just over 7.0 by .2 or .3. I was prepared to add an airstone on a timer for night so I could keep a constant bubble rate and not worry about things in the dark cycle.

My first mistake wat that I did not use teflon tape on every connection and I managed to leak out a 5 lb cylAder in about 2 weeks. Thay ledd to my first algae outbreak. I fixed that part of things. The tank ran great from then on until I had one of the 4 power compact bulbs die. I had no replacements on the shelf and it took me over a week before replacements came. The algae outbreak that time made the first one look mild.

I ran that system for almost a decade and it worked perfectly for me. But I found myself spending more time pruning and replanting on that tank than I spent on any 3 other tanks combined. I realized that I was a fish keeper not and aquatic plant keeper and my time would be better spent on fish than plants. So I sold the entire system for $150 used. I upgraded the tank from a 50 to a 75 gal.

I still had that Eheim canister running until this year. It was as quiet as the day I first put it into use. But my reducing my tanks load by a lot meant that canister and the 75 the caniister was on went out of use. I stile have two more of them running though.

I was able to graw any plant I wanted and that tank was my pride and joy until I had to abandon it. What I learned over the years was that all the fancy equipment and so called plant supplies were pretty much a waste of money as I needed none of them and I di great with my system. My bubble rate was 1/second 24/7. That tank was the healthiest one I had. Over the decade I lost almost no fish in it at all. It was where my Farlowellas spawned.

As always, the above was how I did things. They great worked for me but my way is just that. There are many more expensive and complex ways to do pressurized CO2 that can work as well. I just never had to try any of them. I replanted it a few times.

 

[Swampman]

Make sure you have enough carbonate hardness (KH) in the water to stop the pH dropping due to the carbon dioxide (CO2). The CO2 is an acidic gas that drops the pH and you need the KH to be around 100-150ppm to stop the pH dropping. You have swordtails (fish) in the tank and they don't like acid water so keep an eye on the pH and KH.

Generally you have the diffuser near the bottom and near a filter outlet to help distribute the CO2 around the tank.

Yes, I have diffuser in front of the supply water Seems to work well. monitoring every time I view the tank.

 

[Swampman]

I used a pH monitor to shut off the CO2 value if the pH dropped too low. I got this after I accidentally set my CO2 rate too high, which depleted my KH buffer and caused a fish kill in my tank.

Where did you get that instrument?

 

[Fishfunn]

Where did you get that instrument?

I bought it online. Here is one like the one I have: https://www.modernaquarium.com/milwaukee-pro-ph-co2-controller/

 

[Archerfish]

Hi I just set up my co2. I want to know if I have the diffuser in the right place. My supply is located in back of diffuser. Let me know your thoughts.

@Swampman, do you have someone in your area helping you (or can assist) with this project? Another aquatic plant 'gardener' or an aquarium club with members keeping high tech planted tanks? I would do so before spending more dollars. Just my two cents from a 'recovering' high tech planted aquarist.