CO2 for all planted aquariums?

@CaptainBarnicles it will be intersting to see the effect of the Easy Life root sticks. This will obviously take several weeks to assess after the change from Flourish Tabs. I know nothing about Easy Life sticks. Years ago there was a root stick manufactured by Nutrafin, named Life-Gro or something, and wow, did it make the swords explode in my 90g tank. It lasted one year, then a new stick has to be used. Unfortunately, they stopped making these, and in 10+ years I could not find them anywhere online. I am not suggesting "root sticks" are this good, it depends upon what they contain.

Aside from incredible growth, there is another advantage to Seachem's Flourish Tabs. And that is that somehow the nutrients do not get into the upper water column, but are only used by the roots. I've no idea how Seachem managed this, but it has been proven accurate. The benefit is that you cannot really over-fertilize with the tabs, which means problem algae will not occur from these. It can if liquid fertilizer is overdosed.
Easy-Life is a Dutch brand, the pot literally gives me no information on what the sticks contain except that they're made of clay....I'm not expecting miracles here, they got good reviews but I'm sure they won't give me the same results I get from Flourish
 
I may try some of those homemade tabs I mentioned off etsy one day... Just put one or two in, in a specific area and keep an eye on it... If it does better than other areas, I guess it's good, but if it does bad, well... Now ya know 😅
 
I may try some of those homemade tabs I mentioned off etsy one day... Just put one or two in, in a specific area and keep an eye on it... If it does better than other areas, I guess it's good, but if it does bad, well... Now ya know 😅

Again you have the issue of what is in these? Also, how do they dissolve/work? I have seen previous posts that referred to some of these which had nutrients suited to terrestrial plants but their requirements are different than aquatic plants. These things can cause problems for fish. I can't stop you from risking things, but it really is not wise to do so.

As for the cost of Flourish Tabs...one package of 10 would likely last you a year if not longer. You may be using more than needed. Not all plants need these. And if I remember accurately, a while back you had an algae problem--these "homemade" tabs are known to increase algae issues. Everything depends upon the biological system and balance.
 
Again you have the issue of what is in these? Also, how do they dissolve/work? I have seen previous posts that referred to some of these which had nutrients suited to terrestrial plants but their requirements are different than aquatic plants. These things can cause problems for fish. I can't stop you from risking things, but it really is not wise to do so.

As for the cost of Flourish Tabs...one package of 10 would likely last you a year if not longer. You may be using more than needed. Not all plants need these.
I have a pack of 25 I believe of the seachem flourish root tabs...

But yah, you're right, the fish could get harmed... I don't want that
 
I have a pack of 25 I believe of the seachem flourish root tabs...

But yah, you're right, the fish could get harmed... I don't want that

Seachem Flourish Tabs come in two packages, one of 10 and one of 40. This is still what they say on their website.
 
Nope. Crypts and Anubias are frightfully slow growing and need nothing in particular to do so. Crypts are heavy root feeders so will appreciate some root tab fertiliser but will be OK if you don't bother. Anubias are epiphites, they get what they need from the water column, you could dose a bit of liquid feed if you want to. Both plants prefer low lighting otherwise they just accumulate algae
Thank you. That explains alot.
I've been using a lid light by Tetra that's just 2, 4 inch strips of leds that I only have on in the mornings, knowing low light is preferred. I think I'll shop for some aquarium fertilizer tabs. I've been using Flourish Excel by Seachem wkly and based on what you say that might be why the Anubias is growing new leaves.
Any suggestions on reliable root tabs?
 
Seachem Flourish Tabs come in two packages, one of 10 and one of 40. This is still what they say on their website.
Ah ok, then I have the 40.
Should that last me a while then?
 
I just have a 10 gal with 3 cryptocorynes and 3 anubias. They have barely grown any new leaves or gotten bigger. My anubias each has 1 new leaf and the crypt haven't put out any runners or grown taller. Each or both species is only 3 inches tall. To experiment I put 2 crypt in a 1 gal bowl with no heat or filter and waited 3 months and they're all the same. (there's only snails in the bowl, I'm not a complete sadist!)
Back to my question: I keep hearing that to get plants to grow I have to add a co2 set up to my tank...
Really?! Someone plz help.
If I have to do this, I'll need a DIY system and am open to advice.
Thank you in advance.
Addendum:
I forgot to mention I also have this ceramic like log that came infused with what I think is Baby's Tears..? It's been quite vigorous, as you can see.
 

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I may try some of those homemade tabs I mentioned off etsy one day... Just put one or two in, in a specific area and keep an eye on it... If it does better than other areas, I guess it's good, but if it does bad, well... Now ya know 😅
Those are for terrestrial plants. I tried some years ago, the little granules never dissolve and I am still picking them out of my substrate - years after they stopped doing anything, yes they did work as fertiliser. Others have not been so lucky and at least one member has reported losing fish after using them- possibly @AdoraBelle Dearheart (???)
 
Ah ok, then I have the 40.
Should that last me a while then?

Depends upon how many you use. If I remember, you have the new 40g and the former 20g with gudgeons. First, only substrate rooted plants will benefit from tabs; and only those that are substantial. In my fishroom of 8 tanks from 20g up to 115g, I only used the tabs with the larger swords in the big tanks, and with the red tiger lotus. The crypts, stem plants, floaters, Anubias and Java Fern had Flourish Comprehensive Supplement (liquid), as did the others too, but no tabs. You are not likely to have particularly large rooted plants. And if plants are close, you can use one tab between them.
 
Depends upon how many you use. If I remember, you have the new 40g and the former 20g with gudgeons. First, only substrate rooted plants will benefit from tabs; and only those that are substantial. In my fishroom of 8 tanks from 20g up to 115g, I only used the tabs with the larger swords in the big tanks, and with the red tiger lotus. The crypts, stem plants, floaters, Anubias and Java Fern had Flourish Comprehensive Supplement (liquid), as did the others too, but no tabs. You are not likely to have particularly large rooted plants. And if plants are close, you can use one tab between them.
If you look at my 40g planted aquarium thread, I posted a plant list of all the plants I will have. Some of which you mentioned.
My 20g is tore down, I only have my 10g up atm.
 
Thank you. That explains alot.
I've been using a lid light by Tetra that's just 2, 4 inch strips of leds that I only have on in the mornings, knowing low light is preferred. I think I'll shop for some aquarium fertilizer tabs. I've been using Flourish Excel by Seachem wkly and based on what you say that might be why the Anubias is growing new leaves.
Any suggestions on reliable root tabs?
Seachem Flourish Root Tabs are the best you can buy in my opinion, they are pricey, but you would only need to use one underneath the Crypt you have there, they don't need replacing often, I usually wait until I see growth slow down...anywhere between 3-6 months
 
If you look at my 40g planted aquarium thread, I posted a plant list of all the plants I will have. Some of which you mentioned.
My 20g is tore down, I only have my 10g up atm.

From that list, the tiger lotus will do well with a tab. And the Amazon Sword. But none of the others need it if you are using the liquid comprehensive.

You have 9 amazon swords...what species? Some of these get huge, and you will not have swimming space. I had plants that were 20 inches tall, and just two of these will send roots over the entire footprint of a 40g. My E. major in a 40g after I moved and had to downsize was almost the substrate for half the tank.

I might reduce that list, it is a lot of differing plants. The stem plants maybe not so good here.
 
From that list, the tiger lotus will do well with a tab. And the Amazon Sword. But none of the others need it if you are using the liquid comprehensive.

You have 9 amazon swords...what species? Some of these get huge, and you will not have swimming space. I had plants that were 20 inches tall, and just two of these will send roots over the entire footprint of a 40g. My E. major in a 40g after I moved and had to downsize was almost the substrate for half the tank.

I might reduce that list, it is a lot of differing plants. The stem plants maybe not so good here.
I already ordered all the plants, so I can't change anything lol. Maybe I can put 2-3 of the Amazon Swords into my qt tank...
The species is Echinodorus grisebachii.

So yah, I can't really change anything now lol.
I'll just see what does well in the tank I suppose 😅

And you're saying that ALL the plants BESIDES the Amazon Sword and Tiger Lotus DONT feed out of their roots and instead the water column?? Yah those tabs should last me a while lol
 
And you're saying that ALL the plants BESIDES the Amazon Sword and Tiger Lotus DONT feed out of their roots and instead the water column??

Not exactly. All aquatic plants assimilate nutrients via roots and leaves; different nutrients are taken up by the leaves than what the roots take up. Plants that have extensive root systems are heavy feeders, so tabs help them. The liquid nutrients added to the water will obviously get down in the substrate, but for these heavy feeders using the substrate tab is like a boost of energy for these plants, and it does result in more lush and rapid growth.

Stem plants produce roots and leaves from the nodes along the stem, so they are not in special benefit from tabs. Floating plants and those like Anubias, mosses and Java Fern also gain nothing from substrate tabs because their roots and leaves are in the water column.

The species is Echinodorus grisebachii.

This is an interesting plant, and it is good to see they have the correct name for the species. Phylogenetic aqnalysis has shown that this species contains the plants from several former "species," namely Echinodorus amazonicus, Echinodorus amazonicus var. parviflorus, Echinodorus amphibius, Echinodorus bleherae, Echinodorus eglandulosus, Echinodorus gracilis, Echinodorus grisebachii var. minor, and Echinodorus parviflorus. All of these former "species" were incorrectly described without the benefit of cladistic analysis. However, an interesting thing is that these "species" had differing growth habits. This extends into the aquarium plants too. Echinodorus bleherae was the most common sword plant in the hobby, but it grows to different heights depending upon conditions. I have seen this in my tanks many times. In the larger tanks it could reach 20+ inches, whereas adventitious plants removed from the inflorescence of one of these plants would grow to a third of that length, or half. Some data from my online profile of this plant:

Description (for the “Bleherae” variety)

One of the most common aquarium species of sword plants and one of the most hardy and beautiful. Mid-green leaves numbering anywhere up to 30 arise from the crown and grow out in a fan formation to a length of up to 50 cm (20 inches) or more with the blade lanceolate and acute at both ends. Will often grow to the surface, so in larger tanks the plant will generally develop much larger in height if provided with adequate fertilization. A deep substrate is needed (minimum 3-4 inches); the root system is large, and will spread vertically and horizontally through the substrate far from the plant.​

The differences in appearance between these plants mentioned above are apparent and seem dependent on the specific environment in the aquarium; this seems likely to also occur in nature, what can be termed transitional forms of the species. But the limited genetic variation within the complex is insufficient to establish reasonable groupings (Lehtonen & Falck, 2011).
 

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