CLOUDY WATER

[tstenback]

After I figure out how many drops of ammonia it takes to bring my ammonia level in my tank to 5ppm,

Yes this is correct.

You say that after the ammonia has spiked and dropped to zero and after the nitrite has spiked and dropped to zero, then do large water changes.

Yes, i usually do 1 90% water change. Others do a couple of 50% changes. the main thing here is to get the nitrates down as low as possible before adding in the fish as the nitrates will always continue to build up. They are one of the reasons to do regular water changes.

How do you know when nitrates are present. I can't seem to find a nitrate tester.

The master kit or early versions of it do not have a nitrate test included. The logic here is that if ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and have gone through the spike then there must be nitrates. so just do your water changes and all will be fine. But most people like to track the nitrate levels as the nitrite levels rise as it gives a better indication of exactly where you are in the cycle. The kits can be purchased individually and probably at the same place you got the master kit. The same company makes them as do other companies as well. Here in Canada they go for about $12 HTH

 

[Cheese Specialist]

I just want to comment on the medication to "prevent ich". I don't know if I have heard anything so ridiculous in my life!!

You should not use chemicals to prevent anything, the best way to do that is to not have too many fish, to keep up maintentence and have good filtration. Medication should always be the last resort.

I would not say that 10% waterchanges monthly is going to be an option for most fishkeepers. I do 20% weekly in all my tanks.

 

[panther1505]

After I figure out how many drops of ammonia it takes to bring my ammonia level in my tank to 5ppm,

Yes this is correct.

You say that after the ammonia has spiked and dropped to zero and after the nitrite has spiked and dropped to zero, then do large water changes.

Yes, i usually do 1 90% water change. Others do a couple of 50% changes. the main thing here is to get the nitrates down as low as possible before adding in the fish as the nitrates will always continue to build up. They are one of the reasons to do regular water changes.

How do you know when nitrates are present. I can't seem to find a nitrate tester.

The master kit or early versions of it do not have a nitrate test included. The logic here is that if ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and have gone through the spike then there must be nitrates. so just do your water changes and all will be fine. But most people like to track the nitrate levels as the nitrite levels rise as it gives a better indication of exactly where you are in the cycle. The kits can be purchased individually and probably at the same place you got the master kit. The same company makes them as do other companies as well. Here in Canada they go for about $12 HTH

Yes, i usually do 1 90% water change.

After this one time 90% water change, how much water do you change, and how often do you change it?

The logic here is that if ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and have gone through the spike then there must be nitrates. so just do your water changes and all will be fine.

Does this mean that I don't have to worry about testing the nitrate level?

What about the ph level? In your opinion, should I worry about the ph level?
I've got a friend who has a 36 gallon tank and she can't seem to bring her ph level down to 7.0 from 7.6. According to the ph test instructions, 7.0 is where you should have your ph level.
Some people who I've talk with said that there's no real need to worry about ph level as long as it isn't outrageously high. But then I've talked with some other people who say that I should get the ph level to 7.0

 

[tstenback]

No, you should test the nitrate level so that you will know where in the cycle you are. Also the nitrate test will be very important once you are cycled. It will indicate if you need to do water changes and if your tank is becoming over stocked. Without a nitrate test kit you will just be guessing that your water quality is fine and excess nitrate is toxic to fish just like nitrites and ammonia.
Test your PH to know what it is but once your tank is established this test becomes less important. I only test PH in an established tank about once a month or after i add a new decoration. I do however test the PH of the tap water before water changes to confirm that it is still the same as water companies often change things depending on the time of year etc.

As for changing the PH of a tank. My philosophy is to deal with what you have coming out of the tap. Any attempts to change this over the long term usually end up in one form of disaster or another. I have seen algae outbreaks that completely ruined a tank to PH swings so bad all fish died. So if the fish are fine and not showing any signs of stress i would not adjust PH in a permanent setup. If you are trying to breed fish however you can adjust the water in the breeding tank as this is only short term. HTH

 

[panther1505]

I will special order a nitrate test kit. What do you consider the correct ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels should be. All 0's?

 

[Cheese Specialist]

I will special order a nitrate test kit. What do you consider the correct ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels should be. All 0's?

Amonia and NitrIte should always be 0 in a properly cycled and not overstocked tank.

NitrAte depends on the levels of the tap water. It should be covered by the water changes, ie. when you change water it goes down, but by the next week it has not risen higher than what it was before the previous water change. Below 40 is considered safe.

 

[panther1505]

After I have completed the fishless cycling, and I do a 90% water change, will the cloudiness/milkyness go away.