Cloudy water in a Cycling Tank

[dmpfishlover]

Hi, I am new to Fish Forum. I am not new to the hobby, but it has been a few years since I have had a tank set up. I've had a 60 gallon and a 29 gallon aquarium in the past and so I have gone through the Cycling process before, but like I said it has been a few years. A couple of weeks ago I bought a 5.5 gallon tank with a hang on back filter. I am doing a fish-in-tank Cycling, and I have one Betta in the tank. I am adding API Water Conditioner, API Quick Start and API Stress Coat to the water before adding it to the tank when doing water changes. After about a week of Cycling the water became very cloudy. I don't recall the water getting cloudy when I have Cycled tanks in the past, but then again it has been a few years and perhaps I just don't remember this. Is this a normal part of the Cycling process, or is this a possible sign of something going awry? I have been testing the water every other day or so since I set up the tank, and below are the average water parameter values:

Temp: ~ 74F
pH: 7.4 - 7.6
Ammonia: 0 (at first) 4-8 (after about a week)
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
dKH: 7-8
GH: 9.7 - 11.8 (has gone down over time)

When the Ammonia spiked, I started to perform more frequent water changes. The Betta seems to be doing just fine. The water is obviously clearer after a water change, but doesn't take too long to get cloudy again. I even put in an extra piece of water polishing cloth into the filter, but it doesn't seem to be helping at all. I just want to make sure the cloudiness is not a sign of something "bad". Is this a normal part of the process that will go away eventually? Or is there something I should do that I am not already doing? Any advise will be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Essjay]

If it's white cloudy it's a bacterial bloom which are common in new tanks. The cloudiness is bacteria floating in the water. They eat organic matter and multiply very quickly. the good news is that once they've eaten all their food they die and the water clears.

Whenever you see a reading of ammonia or nitrite above zero, you need to do a water change to remove it. The bacteria will still grow as even a trace in the water will encourage their growth.


You don't need to use both API Tap Water Conditioner and API Stress Coat. Both say they remove chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals so by using both you will be overdosing. And Stress Coat contains aloe vera which when used long term damages fish gills. Just use the Tap Water Conditioner.

Tetra Safe Start is better than Quick Start.

 

[dmpfishlover]

If it's white cloudy it's a bacterial bloom which are common in new tanks. The cloudiness is bacteria floating in the water. They eat organic matter and multiply very quickly. the good news is that once they've eaten all their food they die and the water clears.

Whenever you see a reading of ammonia or nitrite above zero, you need to do a water change to remove it. The bacteria will still grow as even a trace in the water will encourage their growth.


You don't need to use both API Tap Water Conditioner and API Stress Coat. Both say they remove chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals so by using both you will be overdosing. And Stress Coat contains aloe vera which when used long term damages fish gills. Just use the Tap Water Conditioner.

Tetra Safe Start is better than Quick Start.

Thank you so much!! I wondered if it was bacteria. I am glad to know it is not something harmful to the Betta. I am currently doing water changes each time I see the Ammonia spike. I will definitely stop adding the Stress Coat, and stick with the water conditioner and Quick Start. I may look into getting some Tetra Safe Start when the Quick Start is gone, but I don't want to waste it, or spend money on more when I already have some. Thanks again!!

 

[seangee]

Thank you so much!! I wondered if it was bacteria. I am glad to know it is not something harmful to the Betta. I am currently doing water changes each time I see the Ammonia spike

Agree with everything @essjay posted. Just to be clear water should be changed on any day when you see a non zero reading for ammonia or nitrite. You may be doing this already - but I'm mentioning because in your first post you said it gets to 4-8 after a week. That would cause permanent long term damage to your fish.

 

[dmpfishlover]

Agree with everything @essjay posted. Just to be clear water should be changed on any day when you see a non zero reading for ammonia or nitrite. You may be doing this already - but I'm mentioning because in your first post you said it gets to 4-8 after a week. That would cause permanent long term damage to your fish.

Yes, I am already doing that... I just meant that for the first week the Ammonia level was 0... Then I started to see levels above 0 after a week, ranging from 4-8 and each time I did a 50% water change. Thanks!!

 

[Essjay]

A 50% water change would still leave a lot of ammonia in the water with those readings. If necessary, sequential water changes of 90% can be done to get the ammonia reading to zero. Just leave enough water in the tank so the fish can remain upright. I know you are on top of ammonia now, but nitrite will soon show up and that needs to be kept at zero as well.

 

[dmpfishlover]

A 50% water change would still leave a lot of ammonia in the water with those readings. If necessary, sequential water changes of 90% can be done to get the ammonia reading to zero. Just leave enough water in the tank so the fish can remain upright. I know you are on top of ammonia now, but nitrite will soon show up and that needs to be kept at zero as well.

Gotcha! I will continue to monitor for Ammonia and Nitrite and increase the water changes to 90% as necessary. Thanks again!