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lyotim88

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so in the next month or so i suppose i'll be getting my CUC. I have a 55 gallon tank and i need to know how big it should be. The marine biologist at my LFS said to do a DSB, so i'm going to. It's going to have a pistol shrimp and a goby, some peppermint shrimp, some crabs, some snails, hermit crabs, how about a green lettuce nudibranch? I just need to know how much of each. Thank you.
 
Don’t get crabs except hermit crabs. Most crabs live among the rock and will push rocks and corals over during the night. They are a pain in the butt and should be avoided.
Peppermint shrimp are great and eat Aiptasia, you can have 2 or 4 of them. They are hermaphrodites and breed readily in the tank.
You can get 3 or 4 hermit crabs ut try to avoid the bigger species because some of them will go after fish and other slow moving things in the tank.
Most nudibranchs die in aquariums and aren't worth keeping.
Snails are good and you can keep as many as you want. However, I would get about 6-8 and see how they go. If you find there is still lots of algae on the glass, then get a few more snails.
A pr of shrimp gobies with a single or pr of pistol shrimp will be fine. But make sure they are prs (male & female) and not just 2 shrimp the shop has stuck together. Big pistol shrimp will often hunt small fish and make a clicking noise at night, resembling the sounds of a mantis shrimp. It can be a bit annoying.
 
how about a green lettuce nudibranch?

If you're referring to one of the Elysia species (Elysia crispata is commonly referred to as a "lettuce sea slug") or a related photosynthetic species, all Opisthobranchs, you'll need a lot of macro alage in the tank and will need to make sure that whatever macro algae species you get is accepted by the lettuce sea slug. Also, those animals aren't a good idea to add to a new tank. The tank should be mature and have a heafty amount of the right macro species established before any photosynthetic Opisthobranchs go in.
 
not sure what an arrow crab is.

most people avoid nudibranchs (sea slugs & sea hares) because they are hard to feed. Some feed on algae, which is not such a problem in captivivty but they can still starve if the wrong alga isn't available. Many sea hares big and when stressed can release ink into the water. And if a big one dies in the tank it will make a mess of the filtration, (cause ammonia spike). It is preferable to not have nudibranchs in captivivty.
 
even an arrow crab? and how about a dwarf sea hare?

Arrow crabs from what I have seen and read aren't culprits of rearranging tanks. However, they're not compatible with some inverts and may go after smaller snails if they get hungry.

EDIT: forgot to add that I've also heard a number of accounts of arrow crabs taking small fish. I haven't been too sure of the validity of these claims, but it probably warrents some stocking caution anyway.

As for the dwarf sea hare, this is another thing that doesn't belong in a brand new tank, but could perhaps be added later if either you have sufficient algae and/or you plan on target feeding it daily. Sea hares eat a LOT and need food every single day to stay healthy. Many species also don't live very long, particularly at higher temperatures (often only 1 year, sometimes 2), particularly if they are allowed to spawn. Also, be absolutely sure you know what genus you're getting, preferably the exact species (although Dolabella auricularia and gigas are may be impossible to tell apart by eye). Dolabella and Bursatella species are more easily kept, but IME Bursatella can be more fragile (although perhaps still easier to keep than Aplysia). Tanks intended for sea hares also need specific safety precautions. In addition to the usual rule of not keeping any fish/crustaceans that will pick at the sea hare, all powerhead intakes MUST be covered with a sponge. Simple plastic mesh, even mesh with holes that look far too small to be risky, will still risk a trapped animal that requires destroying the intake cover to free the animal.

most people avoid nudibranchs (sea slugs & sea hares) because they are hard to feed. Some feed on algae, which is not such a problem in captivivty but they can still starve if the wrong alga isn't available. Many sea hares big and when stressed can release ink into the water. And if a big one dies in the tank it will make a mess of the filtration, (cause ammonia spike). It is preferable to not have nudibranchs in captivivty.

Eh...I don't entirely agree with this for more commonly kept species - which are opisthobranchs, not nudibranchs, as I was once corrected in one of my first ever posts here asking about them. Sea hares are more feasible in most tanks than lettuce sea slugs, simply because they tend to have a wider dietary range and will frequently accept dried seaweeds as well. Although some Aplysia will ink under certain stimuli (the California sea hare being well known for that if the pictures are anything to go by), the more commonly sold Dolabella and Bursatella species are much harder to make ink. If they get seriously injured by a predator/powerhead or if they die of old age/starvation and are left to sit and decay for a week, then you'll see ink. I've never actually heard of a Dolabella species inking just because of stress alone, but rather because of bad injury or quite a long time after death. If caught quickly (e.g. within a day, which is reasonable for catching a dead animal), a dead sea hare will not make the tank into a mess.
 
Definitely agree with Donya about the sea hare dying/inking. Its typically difficult to get them to do it and the ink is not toxic. And the only time I've ever seen a sea hare ink is after it died like Donya said... And when it did ink, the skimmer cleaned it up in less than an hour.
 
Blue legs hermits can go after snails. The behaviour can be reduced by offering more shells to them, but it may not be possible to stop them completely... I'd mebe swap them for red legs :good:
 
How are dwarf red tip hermits? and since theyre dwarf should i get morer than 4?

If they're the ones with the last joint of the legs being red and having very faint blue to white speckles on the rest of the leg and on the arms, bright red antenae, and red tufts on the antennules (Clibanarius erythropus, these guys: http://dalibor-andres.from.hr/uw/slike_m/o_012-0_180.jpg ), then IME it's a very peaceful species compared to most of the others that are commonly sold. Some individuals will show a faint light stripe on the red tip but it's not always present. They get easily bullied by other hermit species since they do stay somewhat small and aren't all that strong. They probably shouldn't be trusted with small snails and Nerites, but Turbos would be safe, provided they are bigger than about 1/2" and there are empty shells around. However, I wouldn't stock more just because of the "dwarf" label. It's a strange species where many individuals will stay small, but then one or two individuals in a tank may grow to inhabit shells up to 1.5-2" in length depending on the shape of the shell. In my own tanks, I haven't seen that event to cause any aggression as sometimes occurs in other species when the same size difference happens. Right now my 20g has 4 of that species, and one of the females rapidly grew to twice the size of all the others, but the large one hasn't behaved any differently since the size increase.

(edit to fix link)
 
The approach I take with CUC is start with one item per 10l, and see how it goes. I you are getting over-ran with some form of algea or ditritus, choose more CUC that specialise in that.

The redlegs I have were labled "red legged rock hermits", but I'm yet to get a scientific name for them. They are very peaceful though :nod:

All the best
Rabbut
 

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