Chalky Ii & Iii

bronzecat

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Hi

After the fading and death of one of my four bronze cory's, two more appear to be going the same way. :no:

Fading colour, lack of vitality. Again there are no signs of external disease, no iching etc... None of the other cory's are affected (panda's & sterbai)

The water parameters are - Amm = 0, NitrIte = 0, NitrAte = 15, PH = 7.2
There's an internal filter making a good flow and seperate pump running airiation
Being fed frozen blood worm, discus bits & flake.

The bronze were bought at the same time from a decent lfs and they haven't had any other reports about these cory's.

The fourth bronze is still whizzing around the tank quite happily with the panda's.

Is this just one of those "fish keeping moments" when you can do nothing??
 
sorry to hear about your loss :rip: i hope the rest of your corys are ok
 
What size tank, again? What is the stocking load?

I have found bronze Corys to be particularly vulnerable to fungus. What does the fading look like? Is it patchy? Or is the fading a general all over fading?

For now my first suggestion is to do daily 10% water changes, just in case.
 
Hi

60L tank. 4 juvenille sterbai, 3 juvenille pandas, 3 bronze. There is a male PK betta in there temporarily until i can take him back to lfs.

The first one that faded was when they were in a tank by themselves, The 4 bronze i mean. I'd had a slight nitrIte spike in that tank so moved them into the other tank as the water was perfect and didn't want to expose their barbles to the nitrIte.

The fading is general, meaning all over. The water is as good as it could be for them, its planted and has caves etc...

I examined the one that died and could see no signs of fungus etc. Gills still looked healthy also.

Is there a general medication that may help? Like a tonic or something?

I'll do a partial change in a bit, it had one a few days ago as well.

Cheers
 
P.S. The intention was to put them back in the 70L tank once the nitrIte had gone, but i haven't moved them b/c i think the move would be too stressfull at the mo.
 
The reason I suggest frequent partial water changes is because it lessens any parasitic, viral, bacterial, or fungal load that might be present and can not be tested for by the lay person. If it is general stress fading all over I just don't have any idea. You might post a thread in emergency. Pay closest attention to Wilder. People will suggest all kinds of things, but Wilder knows her deseases and medications. Inchworm may have a suggestion on this forum. She knows the most about Corys and has the most experience, Wilder is the master of medications. She is a "med user" and some do not use that approach. There is a debate about meds or no meds in the hobby. She is very good in her chosen place. The next best in this area that I know do not frequent this forum.

There is a lab that comes highly recommended, gives diagnosis, and sells highly recommended meds: National Fish Pharmacueticals It is an excellent resourse. Add it to your bookmarks and visit it.
 
Hi
I would rather not use anything if i can help it. If it was an identified problem then maybe. I was wondering whether something like Aquilibrium would assist?

Cheers
 
Hi bronzecat :)

Water changes are always a good first defense whenever something seems wrong. It's also best not to add any medicine to the tank until you know just what you are treating. The wrong product could mask the symptoms or further weaken an already weak fish.

How warm is the water in your tank?
 
Hi bronzecat :)

Water changes are always a good first defense whenever something seems wrong. It's also best not to add any medicine to the tank until you know just what you are treating. The wrong product could mask the symptoms or further weaken an already weak fish.

How warm is the water in your tank?

Hi
The water is at 25 degrees. I agree, i dont want to use anything medical unless i know what the problem is.

Thanks
 
Hi bronzecat :)

Your water temperature translates to 77 degrees, which is toward the top of the range for both C. pandas and C. aeneus. While I doubt it's the cause of the problem, it might not be helping either. In general, it's best to keep fish that have the same environmental requirements together. When you try to compromise, you can't do what's best for all of them.

Unexplained illness and/or death in corys is almost always due to bacterial infection. If your remaining fish appear well, don't do anything except to try to eliminate any possible conditions that might stress your fish and lower their natural immune systems. Be sure that the tank bottom is clean and free from uneaten food and rotting plant debris. Frequent water changes are good for all tanks and especially beneficial for young corys.

If the betta might be upsetting the corys, move him out quickly.

Right now, I can only assume that this is a problem that the bronze corys had prior to your bringing them home and that now you are seeing the results. With luck the remaining one will stay well. If any of the other fish appear to have the same or other unusual symptoms, it's pretty safe to assume that it's a bacterial infection and treat them for it without further delay.

I hope you've seen the last of this trouble.
 
Hi bronzecat :)

Your water temperature translates to 77 degrees, which is toward the top of the range for both C. pandas and C. aeneus. While I doubt it's the cause of the problem, it might not be helping either. In general, it's best to keep fish that have the same environmental requirements together. When you try to compromise, you can't do what's best for all of them.

Turning it down as we speak :good:

Unexplained illness and/or death in corys is almost always due to bacterial infection. If your remaining fish appear well, don't do anything except to try to eliminate any possible conditions that might stress your fish and lower their natural immune systems. Be sure that the tank bottom is clean and free from uneaten food and rotting plant debris. Frequent water changes are good for all tanks and especially beneficial for young corys.

Just done a partial water change

If the betta might be upsetting the corys, move him out quickly.

He's only temporary. came in with some females. He's pretty good with the cory's and only been in there 2 days.

Right now, I can only assume that this is a problem that the bronze corys had prior to your bringing them home and that now you are seeing the results. With luck the remaining one will stay well. If any of the other fish appear to have the same or other unusual symptoms, it's pretty safe to assume that it's a bacterial infection and treat them for it without further delay.

I hope you've seen the last of this trouble.

I'll keep a close eye on the others

Cheers
 
Hi Inchworm

looks like you're right. One of the pandas looks a bit iffy.

Assuming its bacterial, whats the best way to treat it??

Thanks for your help
 
Hi guys

Thanks for your help :thanks:

I've now managed to isolate the poorly ones, much to the disgust of my male pk!

I'll be out first thing in the morning to get the meds.

Thanks again
 
Did you also say what the ph is? Long term changes in ph can be hard on Corys. I have had poor results when buying Corys from aquarium breeders with a lower ph than mine.

I did not mean for you to treat without a diagnosis. I meant that Wilder knows meds and is good at diagnosis. There are some hobbyists that will not use meds at all--even with a diagnosis. Those that have gone that way and worked it out have as good results as others that use meds. When I say there is a debate over the use of meds, it spans the whole way from no meds at all to throwing meds without diagnosis. But very few recommend thowing meds without diagnosis or an indication of the problem.

My biggest difference from Inchworm, I think, is that I have a stock of preventative meds, which Inchy does not use--as I understand it.

I was also wondering about the temperature in your tank, but thought I might as well wait for whomever the next person would be to help you.

Good luck, Netty and bronzecat.
 

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