Carbon Filters, Any Good?

ole tarantula

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I have a 5 gallon tank with a carbon filter (as well as a biological one) which needs to be changed once a month. I tested the water for ammonia yesterday with API master test kit and got a very high reading (>4ppm!). I did a 50% water change and I'll test again later today. The tank has been running for 3 weeeks with 6 neons and 2 mollies.

Does the carbon filter actually do anything? Especially with regard to NH3?

I have now read all the comments about cycling etc, which have been extremely useful. In a tank as small as mine with as many fish (yes I've been told that it's all wrong by everyone, except the people at the fish shop) providing I perform regular water changes to keep the NH3 down, will it get to the point where the biological filter/bacteria in the tank can cope? Or am I flogging a dead horse?
 
I have a 5 gallon tank with a carbon filter (as well as a biological one) which needs to be changed once a month. I tested the water for ammonia yesterday with API master test kit and got a very high reading (>4ppm!). I did a 50% water change and I'll test again later today. The tank has been running for 3 weeeks with 6 neons and 2 mollies.

Does the carbon filter actually do anything? Especially with regard to NH3?

I have now read all the comments about cycling etc, which have been extremely useful. In a tank as small as mine with as many fish (yes I've been told that it's all wrong by everyone, except the people at the fish shop) providing I perform regular water changes to keep the NH3 down, will it get to the point where the biological filter/bacteria in the tank can cope? Or am I flogging a dead horse?

thing is ammonia is the very thing that the tank needs in order to cycle! but if you don't wish to cycle the tank, 100% water changes, on a daily or bi daily basis, will do the trick, but you may as well dump your filter. it will never get going if you keep removing the ammonia, anyway.

if you do cycle the tank remove the carbon!
there is probably a reason everyone except the LFS says you need to cycle. and that would be because you do!!
the LFS may not care, as dead fish result in new sales. it may seem cynical but it is often true.
 
I do want to cycle the tank but I don't want my fish to die. I accept that ammonia is required initially but obviously it needs to be fairly low to ensure the health of the fish. I know that any ammonia is toxic but what is the minimum level neede to create cycling?

I can really see the value in fishless cycling. If only I'd known about before....
 
Nigh on impossible to assertain a 'minimum' level of ammonia for cycling during a cycling process, but eventually the amount of bacteria in the filters / substrate (if you have some) sides of the tank etc. will balance out to match your stocking levels.

You can replace the 'hole' left by your carbon with another blue filter (or whatever it is in your case).

Do you know anyone who owns a fish tank? If you do, then there are means and ways...

Cycling with fish is not always bad, it is just more difficult to do.
I would simply continue to monitor levels for Ammonia & Nitrites and do every other day, 10-20% water changes: This is as much as you can do.

If there is fish in the water, there will be ammonia in the water, simple as that.

GL

Andy
 
Carbon is used to remove toxins from the water. It doesn't serve any great purpose from a biological point of view. Many people replace carbon with extra sponge or noodles for general use to provide more biological filtration.

Part of your problem with high ammonia is the amount of stock you have in such a small tank. Cycling with fish is usually done with a couple of hardy fish to provide the ammonia needed, tho not enough fish so the levels go through the roof.

Daily water changes to keep the levels down is about all you can do. I'd also reccomend taking the mollies back to the shop since they will quickly grow too big for a 5 gallon tank. At the end of the day it's up to you, nobody can make you do anything.
 

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